Shading exercise

[russ]

I had to try it. This is my first post - been practicing off and on for about a year. I'm really interested
in what you all have to say. I'm my worst critic so don't worry about hurting my feelings. When I first got started I thought shading was going to be the easiest part - boy I was wrong - it's been the hardest thing for me to grasp.

Sam - great site!

Thanks

Russ

 

[monk]

when my airgraver gets here, i'll show you blokes how it's done-- that is if my dog doesn't eat the practice plate !

 

[Sam]

Russ: The placement of your lines is good, and they follow the growth and flow of the leaves very well.

Mike & Russ: The first portion of a shading cut should not be a cut at all, but a very light 'scoot' of the graver heel about 1/2mm before the graver enters the metal. This produces a line that tapers to nothing at the top. When done correctly, the groups of of shading cuts will create a beautiful transition from light to grey to black.

You're not alone if you find shading difficult. Good shading requires absolute graver control, which takes time to develop. It also requires instincts as to how certain leaf and scroll shapes are handled. This comes with experience and making mental notes of what has worked for you and what has not. When you really nail one and it looks great, REMEMBER why. If you shade something and you're unhappy with the results, REMEMBER why and strive to avoid it the next time you're shading a similar element.

 

[Sam]

Good morning everybody.
Here’s mine, engraved with pushed gravers on a copper plate.
Don’t be indulgent please .
Nice thread, thank you all

Santos: You've chosen a different method of shading than others. While I think it's good to try new ideas, I'm not sure this one is as successful. It's difficult to tell from the photos, but do I see some stippling? If so, you might try bulino dotting in conjunction with line shading. I've some some fantastic dot shading done by the italians.

 

[Sam]

Hello all,

Well here's my try plus a doodle...

Steve

Steve: I'd like to see your shading lines converge more and create dark areas near the bottom. Also, read my post to Mike and Russ about starting a shade line by scooting the heel of the graver.

Keep doodling! I really like symmetrical patterns.

 

[Mike Cirelli]

Sam is it good to have a vanishing point where the group of shade lines converge mentally or should everything be penciled in. I'm sure for you it's totally natural. Hmm that seems to be a stupid question but I'm leaving it. Also is there a written in stone place to start your shade lines on a leaf for best results. I get distracted by being indecisive where to start the shade cut at a complex area. Does the rule, stay with the flow work for tough spots, i.e.; the extra line I put on the top of one segment to give it a scoop over effect, to me I got some dimension but not 100%. I know the starting point for me is critical I can't cover things up very good yet Since this is kind of like a paint by numbers. How about a starting and end point suggestions for groups of shade lines or would that influence the exercise too much. Maybe a whole other thread with something like that.
Sam I have to say you are a Godsend to use greenhorns. I'm in a position right now that going to a class is out of the question as much as I would love to. This kind of stuff no mater how elementary and maybe foolish to some is giving a strong learning base to many. To me engraving is probably the last I will learn in my lifetime to add to my knowledge in the jewelry arts and it's very important to me. THANK YOU
Mike

 

[Steve]

Sam, As usual, THANKS for the time and effort you put into helping others! I've cut this design four times searching for something that looks acceptable. For me this is a really hard shading exercise. I have yet find what I'm looking for, but will cut it again and try to improve using your recommendations...

Steve

 

[Steve]

Again ?

A couple more trys.

Steve

 

[AllanFink1960]

Hey
When people talk of "single point shading" what are they referring to? Thanks.

 

[Abigail]

Miike Cirelli wrote:
Ok here's mine. I'll do better the next time. The sun was in my eyes, my arm hurt and I had to go to the bathroom


Mike,
Would you like some cheese to go with all of that "whine"?
Bwahahaha
Abigail

 

[Mike Cirelli]

HA HA HA. Your a funny girl And I did have to go.
Mike

 

[TallGary]

Hey
When people talk of "single point shading" what are they referring to? Thanks.

Allan, Single point shading refers to the use of a standard "square" V shape graver to engrave a single shading line at a time as opposed to using a liner type graver that lays down two or more parallel lines at a time.

 

[AllanFink1960]

Ah! Ok, that makes some sense.
That brings up another question for me about liners. I know tools are tools and you use them for whatever you may find as a use for them. It seems liners are used most for faster inexpensive engraving. Are there uses for liners in the more high quality techniques?

 

[John B.]

Allan.
Liners are use in many types and classes of engraving.
Some good, some bad and some indifferent.
They are used in both high and low end Western bright cut for instance.
Liners are sometimes used to create beautiful backgrounds in high end engraving.
Where the lines all go in one direction throughout the whole design can be very time consuming and takes considerable skill and tool control. Not a sign of cheap work!
It is proper to use liners in much restoration work or to duplicate some of the older styles of American engraving such as Nimschke often produced.
Many European engravers use liners combined with single point shading to get some awesome results.
Most current high end American engraving on guns and knives does not use liners, however.
But they are almost always used on bright cut, as I said.
They are also used on some American factory grade engraved guns.
Liners are just another tool. They can be used well or poorly. No reason to to look down on them.
When skillful tool handleing is used, and in the appropiate place, they can create some wonderful effects.
They can be used to create some beautiful textures on jewelry.
Just my thoughts.
John B.

 

[AllanFink1960]

John, thanks for your reply. I am open minded about liners, I just dont hear much talk about them on this forum in regards to the shading that is explained on here, and in the few books I have read it seems they are used most with less expensive engraving techniques. So your comment about knife and gun engraving rings true, which is why I am asking. I had forgotten people had mentioned liners when doing western engraving. I also dont hear much on here about "knife" shaped gravers, until recently. Anyway thanks for the info.

 

[Bob Bullard]

Sam
For what its worth I have really enjoyed this exercise and although I didn't post anything that dosen"t mean I haven't taken part in this exercise, and I really hope you continue with these exercises.
Bob

 

[Sam]

Glad you enjoyed it, Bob. We'll do more as time permits.

Here's my version. Cut and shaded with a 120º graver.

 

[Brian Hochstrat]

Sam, Looks really good,( I am sure you knew that, but it is still nice to here). I like how you handled the long thin leaf at the tip of the design, the shading gives it a rolled look. I like that better than how I did that portion on my plate. Brian

 

[jacques herbst]

thank you Sam this was fun and nice to see the different shading ideas.hope to see more soon

 

[John B.]

Wow, Sam. Just great!
Thank you for very much for another great tutorial.
John B.