Shading exercise

[Sam]

Several of you have emailed me requesting a shading exercise that members could do. I think it's a good idea, so I've drawn an acanthus leaf outline which is ready for shading. CLICK HERE for an actual size version that will fit on a 2" practice plate.

What will be interesting is to see how different engravers shade the same design, and this can be an excellent learning tool for all of us. We have some supershaders here, and I hope they'll participate by cutting and posting their shaded version of this design. Feel free to scale it to a size you like, and beginners as well as experts can participate. This isn't a contest, so relax, have fun, and let's see where this takes us.
~Sam

 

[Tim Wells]

Sam,
How did you get that to look like cut lines rather than drawn?

 

[Dmitry Martinov]

I'm pretty shure it's made from photo picture. Sam ! HOW ?

 

[Sam]

Sorry guys...I didn't mean to mislead you. I drew it on a brass practice plate, engraved it, photographed it, then worked it over in Photoshop.

 

[Tim Wells]

Thought you'd get that by me didn't you? (cackles like Snydley Whiplash, wringing his hands after tying the damsel to the RR track) I thought it was a scan that had been turned white somehow...

 

[jacques herbst]

your critique welcomed.

 

[Sam]

Jacques, you handled that exceptionally well. My only critique is that I would have used less of those little cuts below the dimple, but this is just personal preference. Your shading lines follow the growth and flow the leaves, and transition from white to grey to black very nicely. Bravo!

p.s. your crosshatching - especially near the tail of the design - is perfect.

 

[Marcus Hunt]

Ditto, Sam....the 'fluting' is too long, 5 maybe 6 cuts are all that's needed, Jacques. Apart from that you're showing great graver control and very nice cutting.

 

[Mike Cirelli]

Ok here's mine. I'll do better the next time. The sun was in my eyes, my arm hurt and I had to go to the bathroom

 

[jacques herbst]

Sam do we get to see your version of the shading to?

 

[Sam]

Mike, you did well too. In the center of the design the shade cuts don't quite follow the growth of the leaves, but you are very, very close. This is a difficult area in this design, and I drew it this way to see how people handle a tough spot. Don't be afraid to cut a few variations and upload, and thanks for participating!

Jacques: Yes, I'll shade mine eventually and post it.

 

[Brian Hochstrat]

Well, for better or worse, this is how I attacked it. As I am one of Sam's students, it will be interesting, for me at least, to see how much I have strayed from what he taught me. As always, critique is happily accepted. Thanks, Brian

 

[Sam]

Brian, that's excellent! Your graver control is quite good. I like the way you've handled the light and dark areas, and your cuts are very accurately placed. I also like the additional loop at the top!

 

[Mike Cirelli]

I was close. I'll try again when I have some time. Not bad for a Jeweler I guess
Mike

 

[Mike Cirelli]

Ok here's another. I was able to take a little more time on this one. I can't believe that more new engravers aren't taking advantage of this. This is free in a class this critique cost money. I wish more of the professionals would chime in.

 

[smays]

Sam..when using your monarch, what are your strokes set at? I read somewhere you started using it at a lower speed. I dont seem to get much of a response less than about 34-3500. I was having trouble getting a real fine line when starting a cut... it seemed to work better when I turned it up a little. I'm sure its just me but can you give me a little insight. Sorry... I directed the question to Sam, but anyone's input would be helpful. I can use all I can get. And thanks for the exercise.... mine is coming soon. What I have found out is.. I really need a scope! Just havent found one for free yet!!!!

Shawn

 

[Sam]

Lookin' good, Mike. I see you've rearranged things a bit, and that's good. If you can get more taper at the beginning of your shade stroke it'll make big difference in the transition from light to grey to dark.

I'm supprised more people aren't doing it too. Maybe they're scared? I don't know...several emailed about doing it but few are actually participating.

Shawn: I'm running about 2300 strokes now. This is strictly personal preference. For years I ran 3000+, and now I feel more comfortable at 2300. The speed feels good, accelleration is perfect, and it simply works. Use the speed that works for you, Shawn. There are no right or wrong speeds.

 

[Mike Cirelli]

Sam
Are you saying to go into the metal deeper in order to get a wider tapered line. If that's the case should I use less lines. Maybe I should have Left it the size you had it. I shrunk it to about 1 1/4" long it was a little longer than a penny.

I have a hard time with the outside of the leaf. When the structure has that cradled effect. Should it be or should it not be shaded. To me sometimes if unshaded it seems to emphasize the shading inside, but it can give the outside a flat appearance also. I guess the question is, to shade or not to shade?
Thanks
Mike

 

[santos]

Good morning everybody.
Here’s mine, engraved with pushed gravers on a copper plate.
Don’t be indulgent please .
Nice thread, thank you all

 

[Steve]

Hello all,

Well here's my try plus a doodle...

Steve