cutting + hammering = sculpting I did on a Ti ring

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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Doc, not all did vote for a new president as it is still the same one.

Ed and Gary, thanks for the encouragement.

Bram, sure we the Belgium ones can be proud having some great engravers and designers like Roland Baptiste and Alain Lovenberg and many others.

arnaud
 

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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Luis, I cleaned my personal message box.
The background was done with a beading tool, then coloured by anodizing.

Luis, he limpiado mi cuadro de mensaje personal. :)
El fondo se hizo con una herramienta de rebordeado, entonces coloreada por anodización.

arnaud
 

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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James, sure the PUK can weld deep enough, something about 1/2 mm. So when I weld a sheet of 1.5 mm on both sides, I still can't reach the 0.5 mm in the centre. So I make a V on the outside that I weld, that way I can weld perfectly. After that I just have to add some Ti to fill the V.

Other thing is that by welding Ti, or when overheating Ti when annealing, it becomes very hard. So quite hard to hammer. But I have carbide and diamond burs to cut those parts, even when I hammer a texture, the welding itself I use carbide burs to make the texture on the welding.

Yes a lot of knowledge needed when working on Ti, but noting that can't be done.

arnaud
 

rod

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Arnaud,

This is a nice piece of work, congratulations!

Your background is very cleanly done, are you doing single blow using your En -set, and placing things nicely under the scope?

best

Rod
 

Willem Parel

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More and more you made me enthousastic to work with Ti Arnaud, so this week I bought the first blanks and will get some sheet soon.
I've just had a try to copy the texture you have done on rings because I like this type of jewelry (you said you always try to make people aware of the advantage working with Ti and stimulate them) .
So I reckon it's alright with you I did this, I had to find out what steps to take to get the right texture and the right look.
I must say I am quit satisfied.

But about anodizing, what kind of liquid and stuff do you need for that, I do have the electronic equipment but I don't know what the names of the bath ingredients are in Dutch.
Can you tell me?
 

James Roettger

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I notice that PUK makes 2 welders One the PUK 3 and the other the PUK3 Plus. Which unit did you get and does it come with a foot pedal? I am looking into the possibility of buying one and I also see an American brand called Orion that looks similar.
 

Sam

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One of your best pieces Arnaud! I especially like the accuracy of your background beading. A most excellent job.
 

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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Rod, indeed one blow at the time to add the beads with the En Set

Willem, yes give it a try and show some of it. I have no patent on structure of course, so feel free trying to make it look like mine and if you get it try some new textures as well. The Ti is quite easy to texturize in different ways, burs, hammer punches sandblasting etc.

About colouring, you need volt between 5volt and 110volt. Brass colour is first and you get some within the range of 6volt – 9 volt, after that comes blue.

You can use a Coke Light to do the anodising. I uploaded a pdf file you can download here about colouring.

James, I have a PUK3 plus. But the plus, pro or whatever, they just all do the same job. Even the new PUK4 is just the same unit, only it looks different.

There is no footpedal, the welding just starts when touching the needle.

Thank you Sam for the encouragement.



arnaud
 

Willem Parel

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Quote : Willem, yes give it a try and show some of it. I have no patent on structure of course, so feel free trying to make it look like mine and if you get it try some new textures as well. The Ti is quite easy to texturize in different ways, burs, hammer punches sandblasting etc.

Okay Arnaud, here is the example, it was simply done by cuttung the texture with a flat, then bead blasting, brush it with a brass brush and very light polishing.
Ofcourse I will try some other techniques on texture but you have to start somewhere.



Thank you very much for the information on PDF and for putting me on the track.
 

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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Willem, looks great and I'm happy at least one gave this a try. at the same time you inspire me with this.
Another thing and of course you are free to do what you think you should do, but do not make the price low for these kind of work. I would charge 350 Euro for that ring. As to me Ti is the best alternative for white gold now a days.

One thing, if you make a photo of your work, the extra space on de borders isn't useful.

arnaud
 

Willem Parel

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Oh I will continiue this Arnaud and don' be afraid I had not the intention to down grade this in price.
The quality should be the best, so good modells and the stones has to be real, so diamond , saffire or ruby will it be.
I take all your advice in this, with the price of gold these days I also am confinced this could be the alternatif and we should upgrade it rather then downgrade it.
I will show you more when I have something new.
The price you mentioning is the price for the customer in the shop I reckon, mostly I work for jewellers, so there is a price difference butt still......

Oh and I am not a pfotographer, when I come to close to the subject or try to zoom in, the picture is getting blurry
 
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Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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Thanks for the encouragement Paolo. I was aware reaching the clip of 3000 but it seems I'm already past that clip now, not that good on counting you know.

arnaud
 

santos

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Hi Arnaud , nice work , I am another fan of Ti . :biggrin:

Have you noticed that TI became very hard after welding it ? It's very hard to anneal TI after tempering it, you have to keep it on your oven , at 500° for 6 hours
 

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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No Santos, I didn't know about your annealing tip. I will give it a try and let you know.
One question, 500° is that Fahrenheit or Celsius?

arnaud
 
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Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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Doc, being a goldsmith, my oven that comes from Kerr is able to melt gold and silver, no problem for me that temperature

arnaud
 

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