The results are in!

[rod]

Absolutely beautiful work, Richard, and a pleasure to see!

Thank you for unwittingly opening up a rich vein of expression, for your magnanimous replies, and for the overall good heartedness of all who responded. I feel that most bases have been covered and expressed. I have appreciated reading the various viewpoints, and I detect a gentle tidal wave inflecting us all into a large contributing family with a wealth of experience to communicate, in particular, a huge generosity from those among us who are more experienced in the engraving arts, and who are willing to inspire and direct those who are entering the craft.

In the event that patent infringements may be in dispute, wise words have been contributed in this thread. Let us users select the tools that work best for our particular hand, and celebrate that we have a number of choices at our disposal. Let patent specialists do their work, if that is called for, and let us remember that we are not patent experts. I have patented various devices in the past, and know that the legal specialists are rather good at their job. The results will shake down in a proper and fair way with time.

Meanwhile ....

Rock on!

Rod

 

[Rick Eaton]

Richard,
Nice work on the shootguns.

I will have to agree with John B. on it is the the artist who does the work, no matter the tools 90 % of a good engraving is design. When I started, I used a gravermeister, this helped me to learn fast to engrave. When I got better I went to pushgravers along with the gravermeister because the older gravermeister's didn't have the control I needed. After finishing one of my best pieces I bought a gravermax and layed the pushgravers down for a while (pushgravers in hard steel are very alot stressful ). Now I have a gravermach with the monarch and magnum and can do fine enough work I don't need to use push gravers for lines anymore. But I do pick up a pushgraver to pick out dots for fine bulino still.
My point to all this is I've used different tools to acheive my best work and will still keep trying to do better.
What I like might not be what you like, I feel that there are many who are outspoken for the Lindsay tools and this is fine, this is what they like, But I can not be silent and not voice my opinion here. I prefer GRS tools.
I have tried both machines and I am 100% for for the gravermach and related hand tools, this will probably offend some and I'm sorry if it does, but these are my thoughts and I personally like using my tools they are a pleasure to use and make my job alot more enjoyable.
Rick

 

[John B.]

Thank you Rick Eaton.
I had decided to not post any more to this thread as I'm sure people are sick of my rambling on this subject.
But well said and your work sure speaks for itself.
My point exactly, try all the tools and pick your own favororites.
Great or poor work can be produced with any method or tool.
There are no magic bullets.
Thank you, love your recent knife artwork.
John B.

PS>
I ment to complement you on your latest posting and I can see where it could read wrong.
What I should have said I have loved all your work for a long time and this piece is especially beautiful.

 

[Steve Weckel]

Vilts, Andrew, Rod, Rick and John,
Please accept my apology.
I thought I was commenting on a review of air tools posted earlier today. I don't kknow how my reply got posted here as a comment to Vilts.
Once the old axiom holds true," Better to be silent and thought a fool than to open mouth and remove all doubt".
Steve W.

P.S.- Vilts, I've written a few lines of code myself.

 

[Steve Weckel]

It is wonderful to hear you fellows discuss the pros and cons of this and that; from tools to script to hobo nickels and scroll. As a novice engraver and a 30 year artist I would like to thank you one and all for your opinions and enlightenment, but.... when I get a passion to create something, I use what I must to see the vision completed. I've ground 16 penny nails to the shape I want just to achieve a certain texture. I would use an axe, jackhammer, feather or whatever it takes to make the vision appear.
My comment on air gravers...use what you have. Be happy in the pratice of using what you have (it will show in your work) and if what you have isn't "cutting it" to your satisfaction. try something else.
Thank you,
Steve W.

 

[Sam]

When you look at the engraving of Winston Churchill and see the few homemade tools lying on his bench, you wonder how he accomplishes such masterworks without the aid of high-tech gadgetry that today's engraver has access to. He works with a low power optivisor and hand tools, with no compressed air, and nothing but the sound of his hammer and favorite radio station. Winston views art through the eyes of an artist, caring not what tool was in the hand of its creator. A hundred years after we're all dead and gone, our engraving will liked or loved based on our artistry and hand-eye coordination required to bring it to life, and not based on the brand of the tool that moved the chisel.

Perhaps Winston is 100 years ahead of his time.

~Sam

 

[rod]

Steve,

Delighted to have your voice in on the mix! I love that big scale country up there in Alaska. I once toured the State playing fiddle and singing for ten days with a big bunch of Scots fiddlers, it was in Spring and boy, you Alaskans were ready to party after a long winter. Never had a better audience!

best

Rod

 

[Mike Cirelli]

I was going to stay out of this but I just couldn't. I used nothing but hand tools except for the flex shafts and buffers to make jewelry and set stones for over 25 years. I have to say if it wasn't for Ray Phillips designing the Ngraver, Don Glasser designing the air assist tools. I think we would still be looking for a better way, well I guess we still are. The Lindsay tool seems to be wonderful tool nice and portable when needed to be and very function able. Looking for an easier way is natural when you make a living in the jewelry or engraving arts. Hell it's tough enough to make a buck when times are good. Air assist has helped made my work a little better, easier and faster. The human hands and mind can only go so fast no matter who you are or what tool you use. Some may be able to go faster and better than others but not because of the tool. To sit and argue what tool is better should be done all in good nature and not despise someone for using something. None of us own the tool company's, but the way a lot of people are so defensive about the tool they use it seems the tool company owns them.
Just my thoughts

 

[FANCYGUN]

Nicely said Mike.
Thinking back many many moons ago....I ran into Ray Phillips at the Hartford Ct gun show when he first started selling his Ngraver tool. I thought it was the cats meow and bought one. Ray and I have been friends ever since. Newer tools and companies have come along and newer models of tools have made their debut. But through all of this, the most important tools for any artist are..your hands, your eyes, your brain and a pencil. The rest is BULLDINKIE".

 

[Richard Hambrook]

I recently started using The Magic transfer solution by Mr. White. I love the solution and it transfers well. Although I have a problem with its durability sticking to Gold. Any idea's?

Rich Hambrook

 

[jimzim75]

The transfer solution can remain a bit sticky. When your spinning the ball vice I sometime brush over
an un-engraved section. My solution was to use talk power to dry up the solution. It does frost
the image a little, but I can still see it. Use a soft soft brush to take away any extra.
You can steal one of your wife's make up brushes, but if you get caught.
Your on your own. I will deny everything.
Jim

 

[Richard Hambrook]

solution

Thanks Jim,
The transfers that I usually do include a lot of fine details. You have experienced the same problem. The rubbing off usually occurs when doing bulino and back note work. I will try your suggestion but as far as the stealing goes....I will go and buy one. I would rather have the dogs turned loose on me than to have the wife turned loose on me. She loves me but she loves her expensive make up brushes more!!!!!

Rich

 

[jimzim75]

It's usually the Micro lettering that gets rubbed off. I know your supposed to start at the end of
a sentence but that not always an option. If there's more than one line, well? It l__ks so__thing Li__ this.

It looks somthing like this.
When it should have read. The above.

 

[forty-five degrees]

Hi Jim,
I had the same problem.
I couldn't afford rubbing off part of the logo so I put some
Teflon tape on the part I wasn't engraving.

I print my image on Lazertran paper.
I don't know if the tape would work
with what your using for transfer.
Gail

 

[Richard Hambrook]

transfer

Jim,
That's exactly what I am talking about except I am dealing with the shading and crusial area's like eyes, nose, mouth etc. on gold. Thanks for you imput.
Rich

 

[Tim Wells]

Sometimes I use "workable fixative" and spray that on it. It dries flat and slick so your knuckle won't stick to it should it touch it and it won't print it either. Any art supply will have it, Krylon is one vendor, there are others.

There's some stuff that people spray on topo maps to be able to write on them well with a pencil that will do the same thing. I've heard cheap hairspray will work too but I don't know if it dries non-sticky as I've never used it.

I recently started using The Magic transfer solution by Mr. White. I love the solution and it transfers well. Although I have a problem with its durability sticking to Gold. Any idea's?

Rich Hambrook

 

[Andrew Biggs]

Hi Richard

Tom's magic transfer is a great product. I reckon one bottle should last about a lifetime. One thing I do is wipe all the excess off the cotton bud before I put it on.........so all it leaves is a very super thin film. The transfer seems more durable this way.

The pencil fixative from an art store works well to seal it if you need to. The trick is to hold it a long way from the work before spraying as you can end up flooding it on.

Hope this helps

Cheers
Andrew

 

[jimzim75]

Hi Andrew,
I don't know about a life time. I'm a quarter way though my first one, but I bought five more back ups.
I wonder, is that enough?
I suppose when I finish the first bottle, I buy another three.
I tried it out on a wax and it sorta works. I think I'll stay with I have been doing.
Talk to you later,

Jim

 

[Russ Sutton]

I get much better results if I warm the transfer solution bottle in a bowl of hot water before applying it. I fill a Cool Whip bowl with hot tap water and put the bottle in the bowl for 5 minutes or so. Maybe it's in my mind but I get a more complete transfer.

Thanks
Russ Sutton

 

[Tom White]

Richard,

I do not know which printer, film and ink you are using but if the solution is sticky you are using too much, apply it as thin as you possibly can, roll the q-tip inside the neck of the bottle then swipe the surface in one direction then go at right angles to the first application with the same q-tip to make sure you have complete coverage. Then blow the surface until it is dry at this time is should not feel sticky at all. If you use too much you will not get sharp detail and the transfer will not be as durable as it should be. Richard if you are still having problems getting a thin, thin coat try taking a small amount of the solution and dilute it with 95% or better isopropyl alcohol you can mix it at equal amounts and still have a good transfer if you are using the correct inks and films. Oops 4 ounces just became 8. Try this with a small amount and test as not all inks and films will work at this mix. One more point to note use a clean q-tip each time you use the solution the residual in the tip will build up and soon all applications will be to strong.

Russ,

By heating the solution you are making the evaporation of the alcohol faster and the coating of the magic will be ready to use sooner so the resulting detail should be greater.

Tom White
Transfer Magic