silverchip
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Uh, NO!!!! Keep offerin!!!
Help, please: New at engraving , need help getting started with a small budget.
- Thread starter jzknives
- Start date
Dale Hatfield
Elite Cafe Member
So is it up fer auction. Id be in the bidding
silverchip
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Go to the Buy And Sell section and if you' re interested send me a pm .Just trying to help out here!!!!!!
glstrcowboy
Elite Cafe Member
I'm in Hayes, VA. You are welcome to come by and see my cheapskate setup.
KCSteve
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Speaking of Lindsay, Steve has a thread / package over on his forum "An Inexpensive Way to Get Started". Basically you get the Universal sharpening template, one bench stone, one graver (pre sharpened) and a nice push handle. I'd add at least one more graver blank and keep the original as a study piece for when you're having trouble replicating it.
It's more of a "enough to see if you really want to start engraving" setup than a "start engraving setup", but it's a pretty good start.
Oh, and a tip I learned at an Engrave-In: a box of fender washers makes for some cheap practice plates.
Edited to add: the link is at the top of the left-side menu over at Steve's place.
It's more of a "enough to see if you really want to start engraving" setup than a "start engraving setup", but it's a pretty good start.
Oh, and a tip I learned at an Engrave-In: a box of fender washers makes for some cheap practice plates.
Edited to add: the link is at the top of the left-side menu over at Steve's place.
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Marcus Hunt
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
if you want to push engrave steel though, start on steel. Push engraving mild steel is not difficult if your tools are properly sharpened but it takes time and practice.
I start students with copper plates to get the feel of the push graver then to mild steel and then to harder old gun parts, also teach H&C while standing at a walk around vice set up. J.J.
Marcus Hunt
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
My old man started me on copper plates when I was 3! At 16 it was straight into steel, no ***** footing as you have to build those muscles if you want to hand push steel. If you don't, that's fine too. Lots of engravers just work on soft and precious metals, nothing wrong with that. If you intend to cut steel though you really need to start cutting it straight away because its a vastly different medium to copper.
Marcus Hunt
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
My god, you can't even say that cute little cat word when it relates to a cat. I hate censorship when it's not required, grrrr! Not every thing is sexual.
Sorry Marcus. The forum software has built-in filters because not everyone would use the word appropriately.
Did you draw them on the metal first? Are you rotating your hand/arm or the ball vise?
You should think of this as tracing a well drawn image. You cut the curves by rotating the piece (the vise) into the stationary graver.
In class we spent hours cutting straight lines then spirals. This builds graver and vise control.
You should think of this as tracing a well drawn image. You cut the curves by rotating the piece (the vise) into the stationary graver.
In class we spent hours cutting straight lines then spirals. This builds graver and vise control.
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Chujybear
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
You can put dopping wax on a square of plywood glued to a dowel. In this way you can turn your work as much as you can turn your wrist.
1-2" dowel depending on your hand size.
Substitute shellac or hot glue for dopping wax depending on your taste.
1-2" dowel depending on your hand size.
Substitute shellac or hot glue for dopping wax depending on your taste.
New update
Got a shipment of goodies in the mail.
I got a lindsay graver template , some practice plates , and some scroll templates
got my first scroll done today!
This was the very first time i have used the hammer and chisel , so be nice haha.
One thing i will mention is that i did the whole thing on 1 graver because i was all the way outside on my post vice , so im assuming most of this is done on a dull graver
Got a shipment of goodies in the mail.
I got a lindsay graver template , some practice plates , and some scroll templates
got my first scroll done today!
This was the very first time i have used the hammer and chisel , so be nice haha.
One thing i will mention is that i did the whole thing on 1 graver because i was all the way outside on my post vice , so im assuming most of this is done on a dull graver
Much better. You need to be using a sharp graver... I pretty impressed that you are this far along this early.
Things to concentrate on:
1: Keep the depth consistent.
2: Keep the shiny side of the bevel cut on the backbone/leaf side not the background side.
3: back cut (recut the start of your line in the opposite direction) to make sure that the lines are consistent width
These are not things you did wrong. These are skills that new engravers need to master early in the process.
Things to concentrate on:
1: Keep the depth consistent.
2: Keep the shiny side of the bevel cut on the backbone/leaf side not the background side.
3: back cut (recut the start of your line in the opposite direction) to make sure that the lines are consistent width
These are not things you did wrong. These are skills that new engravers need to master early in the process.
Ya right now the trickiest thing for me is following where the actual cutting is taking place because the graver im using (the lindsay 115 degree universal) has a strange shape to it that i would not really describe as a point.
So staying on one side of a line is pretty hard.
Also im having problems with marking , the pencil and pens rub off way to easily , so im guessing i need a scriber.
What would be a good scriber to use? Or is there another way to layout the design that is more "durable" as it pertains to accidently rubbing it with your fingers or hands?
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