At least I think it's a pendant, but I'm not really sure. The jeweler sent it to me with instructions to do some fancy scrollwork outside of the scribed area. Not sure what's to go in that area.
I did a rather simple flare cutting style and millgrained the edge and engraved some names on the back.
Man, that is some clean cutting my friend! The design works wonderfully in the allotted space. I just hope the jeweler doesn't screw up your sharp cutting when he/she removes the scribed lines you had to work around.
As an aside: do you put your millgrain tool in a handpiece and run around the edge under power, or just use manual pressure?
Now that is as sweet as it gets with this style. Beautiful, and a very lovely design!
As Doc, asks, do you first do an engraved border cut, and after run the millgrain tool over the edge of the piece at an angle so that it swages the corner into a beaded pattern?
Thanks guys Yes, I do use the millgrain tool in my 901 handpiece. And yes, I do engrave a border first which gives the wheel a 'track' to ride in and makes for efficient forming of the beaded pattern.
Are you using just a straight flat with what... 40 degree front face and rounded heel at about 20 degrees?. I do remember you doing the tightest of 'flat' scrollwork with no heel drag, and presume you lift your graver very high, to a steep angle, in tight turns?
Rod: Actually, for this job I used the the 120° GRS parallel heel graver made with their new sharpening fixture. I believe the face is 50° and I forget what the heel lift is. Seems to work very well for this
Thanks, Ali. No, I don't know what goes in the center area. The jeweler will handle that part.
Thanks, Chris. I haven't tried a pre-shaped 120 so I don't know for sure on that. I probably have one around here somewhere. I'll see if I can find one.
Here you go, Chris. This is a pre-shaped GRS 120. I sharpened the face and heel on the EasyGraver fixture. One side is perfect and the other is slightly off a degree or so. Of course if I were to true the reshaping grinds on the fixture it'd be dead-on. I also might have it mounted a degree or two off in the QC holder, or it could be a less than perfect factory grind.
Real world tests show no performance difference that I can detect. It cuts just as it should.
Beautyfull work Sam! like ever, one question when you use the millgrain tool in your hand
piece do you use it a what speed? because i had try in the past but always i broke the tool :S what is the secret?
You're getting pretty good at this. A couple of days ago it was a manky old brass buckle with a beaded background..........today it's a beautiful pendant. Keep practicing!!
why would you put a radius on the flat ? is this radius done where the face meets the graver bottom ? what's the advantage of this for the flair cut ? can you show a foto please.
btw-- sam-- thats just totally gorgeous. someone's gonna go gaga when she gets this !
mrthe: My normal strokes per minute setting is 3,300, and that's what I used to do the millgrain. I don't have a secret or do anything special. It just seems to work well at that setting. I've only broken a couple of millgrain tools doing this, but I don't millgrain every day. It does put a lot of stress on the tool though.
Bert: It's 18k yellow, and the size is about 1" (25mm).
Sam, yes I like this style too, and sure you master it quite well. In my world, I think for most this style looks like engraving, if I show single point engraving, they think it is etched.
So in my world doing a single point relief engraving isn't recognised as whet supposed to be.
This kind of style takes less time and at least people see that it is cut.