Graver sharpening booklet?

[Beladran]

Anyone ever thought about making an illustrated booklet on how to make all the different gravers and their uses?

 

[K Frei]

That would be pretty nice to have.

 

[Jared Eason]

Do like I do and every time you read something on the cafe that you think will come in handy , write it down in a notebook. I bought a hard cover book with blank pages from Walmart for like $4 . Its thick too. And I have all kind of notes in it about gravers, geometry and whatnot. But yeah a booklet on geavers would be nice. It would be hard to do specifics though , from what I have seen , just about everyone has there own way. But the basics are the same.

 

[Beladran]

I have a binding machine an wouldn't mind doing the grunt work if I could get some help collecting all the info.

 

[Jared Eason]

I will see what I can pull together on my end from my notes but it will be later when I get off work.

 

[dogcatcher]

I am following this one, I need all of the cheat sheets I can find.

 

[LVVP]

That would be pretty nice to have one, good idea

 

[Jared Eason]

I'm with Beladran , any input to help the cause would be nice . An maybe a yeah that sounds about right from the masters too. Wouldn't want to be giving bad info. Lol

 

[Jared Eason]

Here is something I had on my phone .

 

[Jared Eason]

If memory serves correctly....

Face angels steeper than 45 degrees are better for cutting hard metals ( stronger points ) = less points breaking

Heel, longer heels are better for straight line cuts, but are more likely to leave ( heel drag ) in sharp curves.
( some prefer longer heels for most of there cutting )
A heel 20 degrees or better is good for some rounded surfaces and tight areas. Allowing the engraver to hold the graver more upright .

Traditional heel has less cutting surface than the parallel heel ( Lindsey point ) which can tear through the metal if leaned to far to one side or the other. When the parallel heels cutting surface extends all the way up the point.

Flats, good for background removal, flare cuts, lettering, and trimming off excess gold after inlaying. Some engravers use the V points to do lettering , leaning the graver more to one side or the other to produce the flare.

Well like I said from memory. And there is more. I will try to add some pics when I can.

Masters. Correct me if I'm wrong about anything please.

 

[Sam]

Yes I've thought about it and even contacted a company about printing them. Not sure if there's enough demand though.

 

[Jared Eason]

Sam. You could prob just publish all your notes you gathered through the years and it would sale like hot cakes.lol

 

[Beladran]

I really think it would be a time saver. Granted you could sit down a google for 30-40 min an maybe come up with something or you could flip open this booklet, go to the index an find it on page X in 10 seconds. You could have your geometry for a 120 an the list a few alternate ideas like traditional heel or parallel heel. Different face angles for different jobs. I could see that sort of information at your finger tips being priceless

 

[Southtexas]

Or... you could keep a notebook like many of us do and have it all right there organized to our preferences.

 

[Jared Eason]

Well southtexas. I agree with you as well as part or the learning. One must not always depend on a ( cheat sheet). But as much research and questions I have done and asked , I'm sure there are things I have missed. And it seems that no two engravers are like. Everyone has there own personal preference. I have the ( ugly book ) and anyone that does electrical work knows what I'm talking about. Its a book with all kinds of information that I use now and then but dont depend on it for everything. Point being a graver reference guide would come in handy.

 

[Southtexas]

The notebook I refer to is totally graver sharpening. Added to as needed and assembled by the engraver. As opposed to paying someone else to assemble the information. I know I'm not alone keeping one. I can see now that not everyone is motivated enough to dig out their own information. Such is life.

 

[Jared Eason]

Lol. I broke my book up in sections I left several pages in between each one as to have room to add more info where needed. I have mixed feelings . I know its frustrating trying to find all the information in the beginning, but also know that I appreciate what I have because I worked hard to get it. I like helping people and don't mind sharing what I have learned to an extent. Isn't that what the forum is all about access to others knowledge , and getting help. I'm not saying that newbies shouldn't do there homework, but I know from all that have helped me , a free pass here and there helps to take the stress off.

 

[tundratrekers@mtaonline.n]

All this is already in the Meeks book.
Also, the Jewelry Engravers by John J. Bowman and ?(sorry ).

michael

 

[Roger Bleile]

I could never understand how to sharpen a graver using J. B. Meek's book. I thought I was just too dense to understand it. In the years since, I have probably talked to 50 engravers who had the same experience as I did. McKenzie showed me his way and later Don Glaser showed me how to do it with a power hone. John Shippers' book clearly illustrates sharpening. It is similar to McKenzie's method.

 

[monk]

well, i like jareds' first idea: good greif- esp newbies- get a looseleafe notebook. when you read something applicable to your situation-- just take a couple notes- a rough sketch, etc- you needn't write it all down, doesn't have to be complicated. if a person has been visiting here for just 1 year, just think of the useful info he/she would have in the notebook ! aint rocket science, kids.