Fine English

Marcus Hunt

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Okay, we have to be careful because we risk hijacking Sam's thread. Roger, of course there are differences between types of English scroll. Like Chris says, it's very much akin to handwriting. Different makers had different house styles but regardless of style, good examples always follow certain rules. The main rule is balance. The inside work should not be over stretched and sparse as in the second example Purdey of the second batch of pics. The first one looks like one of my father's early small scroll guns, the second looks like one of the 1970's "bonus" guns.

The factory engravers of this period were paid a bonus the faster they could turn them out so the amount of inside work was cut down on and stretched, number of scrolls cut down on overall, and to fill the space they were made larger. Gaps were also left empty between scrolls. Look at the earlier Purdey's and you'll see where there's a gap it's been turned into a leaf and shaded - not so on the 70's gun. This was possibly the worst period of Purdey engraving ever.

The last 2 Purdey's are 'alive' as Chris says. The one next to the Westley Richards looks like it was done by the Kell workshop. Look at the size of these scrolls and then the size of the photo. If you reduce this pic down to actual size you'll start to appreciate just how small these scrolls are. When English fine gets above a certain size background needs to be cut away or it starts to look very repetitive. The Westley (next to the Purdey) is a good example of this. It is very well cut and nice quality but it isn't "alive" like the Kell Purdey's.

The first set of photos shows very commercial and cheaply cut guns (except for the Whittome). And that's what we have to remember. In those days England produced thousands of guns and a lot were very cheap. A Purdey of the time may have cost the gunmaker £4 to engrave by Kell whereas a cheap Birmingham gun might have very little engraving costing a few shillings. Also, the engravers of the time were artisans not artists. English small scroll was commercial and quick to cut. It's still saleable today if done well. I'm working on 2 Rolexes at the moment for my Japanese client who loves anything English and loves English fine scroll.

Roger, my way is not the only way to cut English scroll. It is the way I was taught by my father who worked on some of the world's finest sporting guns and rifles. It was not the cheap Birmingham way or the way of some provincial gunmaker or engraver but the top of the range so to speak. Engravers of quality such as Sam can cut an "English scroll" and even though it's not quite the way I was taught, it looks stunning. Why? Because they understand the basics of balance and harmony.

Sam's scrolls have more shading than a commercial engraver would use. That's not to say it's wrong but in the past would have taken the engraver too long for the money he would earn. However, there is a mistake in Sam's example where one of the scrolls coming from the tale of the starter scroll looks wrong and it leaves a very awkward gap which has been filled with outside work. This in turn leaves a white gap which (unfortunately) automatically draws my eye to it. Barring the crappy 70's Purdey, none of the example photographs do this.

There are no awkward gaps left even with the cheapest and poorest examples here and this is because the engravers would have been apprenticed in this English style and the master would have told them not to leave these gaps and showed them how to correctly use the outside work to balance the design.

The main fault of so called "English fine scroll" nowadays is that techniques designed for wee scrolls are being used on scrolls that are far too big to properly support it. This means it's hard to get the subtle variations within the inside work which keeps things interesting. This isn't "wrong" as such, after all you can do whatever you want and who am I to tell you "No, do it my way!" but it is "wrong" if you want to produce top quality English fine/small scroll in the English manner. Once you learn the basics though, the world becomes your oyster and then like engravers such as Sam (Chris, Lee, Winston and many others) you can then inject your own personality into "English scroll" (you just have to work on your design a bit more though Sam;))
 
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Lee

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Thank you Marcus for the very useful and clear explanation. I was priviledged to spend that week with Marcus and his father and my eyes were opened up to a new world regarding small scroll. I suspect the main reason for American variations is that we have never had the opportunity to learn it correctly and therefore we did what we thought might be right. In the case of Sam and others who are exceptional designers, the result is often lovely as Marcus stated but not quite proper/traditional small english.
 

Roger Bleile

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Marcus,

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions and comment on this subject.

One more question, if you don't mind. Below the H.T.Smith is a Roland Watson and below it a 712 Webley. While the scroll looks quite different between these two Birmingham guns, they both share the characteristic that inside the backbone is another parallel backbone then the leaves are inside the second backbone. The bottom Purdey on the right seems to have this characteristic but the other Purdeys don't. This doesn't seem "proper" to me but is it acceptable in the London best gun trade and can it all be the work of a particular engraver?

BTW, I have several images of guns you have engraved that ended up on auction sites and in every case your small scroll looks superior to the vast majority of British guns.

Since Winston Churchill's fine scroll was mentioned above, I have attached an image of Winston's work for those who are not familiar with it. The image is from American Engravers-The 21st Century.

Cheers,
Roger
 

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Southern Custom

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Thanks so much Roger for all the photos. And as usual, thank you Marcus for your expertise. With these photos and Marcus's explanations of what is happening, one can start to grasp the essence of the style and why it works the way it does. I love to look at the way Winston treated the style and made something of his own with it. It is a beautiful thing to behold. Even though it is a vast departure from the traditional work, it has enough of the traditional elements that we can recognize where it originated from.
 

Sam

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I've absolutely enjoyed this thread and the direction it's taken. :happyvise: There's much to be learned about English scroll and this has been very informative. I agree my attempt has some funky spots that stick out to my eye as well. Of course Churchill's is to die for! I hope others might cut some examples as well and then post them. Bram has done some super nice examples...maybe others will too?
 

Marcus Hunt

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Roger, that double spine is caused by the inside work touching. Like most things, it is often an individual's particular style but really, it should not happen. Each leaf and tendril should be separate and look like it's growing from the spine, it shouldn't look like the spine is a separate element so what you point out is generally considered poor form and should be discouraged - or at least it was when I was an apprentice and did this!
 

mrthe

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After reading this interesting post will be very interesting have a Cafè's Master Class ......." Design ,cutting & shading excercise #4 : English scroll" like the ones from Sam, Mitch and Lee, i think will be great and very helpful ;)
 

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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After reading this interesting post will be very interesting have a Cafè's Master Class ......." Design ,cutting & shading excercise #4 : English scroll" like the ones from Sam, Mitch and Lee, i think will be great and very helpful ;)

Yes Paolo, but maybe it would be wise to wait until Marcus has his DVD on English available.

arnaud
 

take-down

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I agree with arnaud, this has been a great thread for a novice to follow, (I have book marked it) & look forward to Marcus getting the DVD & book out so I can begin to understand what I am looking at
Cheers
 

SamW

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Sam, per your request for others to post here is a bit of mine.

When I started my journey into scroll in the late '60s I read (wish I could remember where) a comment explaining the "difference" in germanic and english fine scroll. The germanic he also called "double scroll" and said it consisted of a main spiral with inner structure of alternating leaf and spiral (tendril) design whereas english was a single spiral filled only with leaf structure. I have used this idea ever since and refer to my scroll as shown as english style scroll. It is more time consuming than true english as there is a good bit of background removal which I don't believe true english requires. TOS
 

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Sam

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Beautiful job, Sam! Seems like I might have read that somewhere as well, but I can't remember where.

A good portion of the scroll example I posted could be covered by a penny so it is really small, and I drew the backbones and lightly sketched detail at the intertwines. After that the inside elements were cut on the fly with no layout. I think this is a key feature to being able to cut this style quickly, especially really small scale scrolls where laying out each leaf would be insanely time consuming and most likely unnecessary. Just curious as to how you handled the layout on this rifle action. While I've not done a larger example myself, I'm thinking I would probably layout the inside elements if I did.

~Sam
 

SamW

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Neal, I always like to follow "regulations"...at least when someone is looking.

Sam, this photo shows my layout technique. I draw it all on the steel with a fine scribe. This requires a fine polish on the steel so the scribe lines can be very faint and still show well, allowing it to be easily burnished (erased) out. It is much like drawing with pencil and paper but much finer lines which I like for cutting purposes.

I did do a tiny test piece at one time but cannot find a photo of it. I should be able to scrape up the plate and reshoot.
 

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SamW

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Found the plate. This is tiny but not nearly as nice as your design Sam. It was done some years ago so I don't remember for sure but I expect I drew at least the back edge of each leaf for placement. Early on I found that just free cutting internals of scroll led me into trouble. With all the practice since that time I might could get away with it now but good habits are worth keeping. It is the bad ones I try to shun.
 

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Sam

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DSC01188-sm.jpg

Great work, Sam! I love your scrollwork and everything else you cut.

Here's another example from my show last week. A bit smaller than the first one I posted. "fine English style" might be the best description as you have suggested. I laid out the backbones and everything else was cut on the fly.

As I get time I will try the style Bram posted and I would like to test different gravers as well. I did this with a 120 but I'm thinking a 105 or an onglette might be worth experimenting with. Churchill's scroll has wonderful depth and he uses onglette style gravers for much of his work.
 

GTJC460

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Wow! This thread is a treasure-trove of small scroll design and execution! This definitely needs to be put in the archives!
 

GTJC460

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I didn't really get the scale aspect to just a few moments ago. I opened up Ron Smith's book and looked at his skeletal drawings for the SAA colts. This with some sample/practice cylinders I had lying around that I actually really got the idea of the scale for "English" vs "Western" scroll as Ron Smith illustrates in his book. A real lightbulb went off in my head.
 

SamW

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Well Bert, nothing like a little "light" on the subject.

Another nice piece of scroll Sam. I suppose I should try cutting "on the fly" but old habits are hard to change. I used to use #3 onglettes but it got to be too much fighting the hard metal so I started using square carbide. I put a 58 degree face on it and a tiny heel (per Lynton's method) of about 10 or 12 degrees, enough to clear my big fingers, and leave it at that. I do the vast majority of my cutting with this one tool shape. I have never tried the wider tools.
 

Sam

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I was just wondering if the curved sides of the onglette might have some advantages. I don't use onglettes either, Sam. In my last example the backbones are pretty wide...maybe wider than they should be. It's not a big deal on larger work but something of this scale it becomes apparent. Perhaps a narrower graver would be best for something this small, or using the 120 and simply not cutting the backbones as deeply as I did. Your last example has backbones which I believe are a better width. I think mine stand out as being too thick.
 

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