Cleanup after soldering?

[tsterling]

Just a thought: Are you using iron or steel tools with your pickle solution? This will cause electrolytic copper plating of your silver piece, causing a brownish/coppery surface color. The solution to that is to use copper, plastic or wood tweezers, not iron or steel.

 

[l. bacon]

Sheena, What part of Oregon are you at? I'm in northeast part of the state and could possibly help you or maybe know someone close to you that could. There is a lot to learn in this silversmithing and is all fun but can be very frustrating if it is learned by trial and error. Get into some classes or visit other artists shops will help in a big way. Let me know if I can help. Larry

 

[Brian Marshall]

What silversmiths call "silver solder" is technically a brazing alloy. Above 1,000 degrees... and much much stronger.


The low temp silver bearing solders are used to overlay onto steel. Bits and spurs and such.


Lead based solders are not a good idea. Overheated they will destroy the silver as well as thoroughly contaminate the scrap. It was also a PITA extra step I had to go through to get lead out when I owned a refinery.


B.


I did a quick bit of research for an actual "nickel silver" solder that would melt in the 400 degree range. Didn't find any that contained nickel.

 

[Peter E]

I suspect "silver solder" that melts in the 400 degree range is what is "called" silver solder because it contains 2% silver. I have some that I use for electrical type soldering and it is 98% tin and 2% silver.
It flows at 430 degrees F. I would not use it on sterling.

 

[Chujybear]

There was mention of doming. You can dame after you engrave. The distortion is present, but hardly perceptible.
If you are going to be soldering anything to the plate, then that will have to be done after it is domed.

Technically jewellers are taught that engraving is the final step of any process.. This wisdom takes two things into account.
Principally bright cuts: if you would like to have the inside of your cuts shine, then truly engraving needs to be the final step (tho a simple cheat is to re engrave your lines after you solder, to brighten them up)
And the second matter is that your shaping processes and polishing could have an effect on your carvings integrity. Hammers void smooth details, or transfer textures. Polishing will tone down bright cuts, and round the corners of your engraving.

Of course if your piece is very sculptural then some homogenization would be desireable.
And if you are going to blacken your background, the the issue of bright cuts is irrelevant

If I do any polishing after I have carved something I tend to just touch it a couple times and I am happy.

Gwaai