Low speed bi-directional 6" power hone

Here are currently active links to the pieces parts necessary to assemble a low speed bi-directional power hone suitable for sharpening gravers as well as knives, chisels lathe tools etc. Not included are plans or instructions for the shop built dual angle fixture shown in the picture.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/rle-INLAND-436002-SwapTop-12-Arbor-Nut-Set-/400424932076

using this adapter on this motor

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WK2FPW/ref=pe_175190_21431760_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
that company supplying Amazon seems to have gone out of business so here is a different link to the same motor.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electr...RPM-24-VDC-GEARMOTOR-W-DRIVE-WHEEL-5-1660.axd

and the Master Lap - Polishing Laps A Base Lap Used As A Support. This uncharged aluminum lap is used as a base for other laps such as Ultralaps or Plastic laps. Precisely ground flat and parallel with 1/2" arbor hole. Link removed due to a Cafe member not getting an order. A web search for "Aluminum Master Lap" will bring up several sources. Amlap is no longer a recommended source. You want a 6" x 1/4" with a 1/2" center hole. You can also use an acrylic lap if it is at least 1/4" thick.

the 'master lap' is optional but since the diamond laps are thin, the master lap prevents deforming under use.

for a power supply I used
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Ada...9&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=24+volt+power+suppley

set to 24volts since that is the optimal voltage for the motor.

Using this dagram I wired the motor to run in either forward or reverse. For graver sharpening this is less important, one direction is fine. But I use my hone for gravers, lathe tools, milling cutters and wood carving knives so.... It's a handy option. Switch and a jack for the power available at Radio Shack.

http://www.distel.co.uk/DC_MOT_CON1.htm

The laps I buy are from
http://richontools.com/ link corrected
A 6" 240, 600, and 1200 will run about $38 including shipping as I recall. No customs tax on such a small order.
but they are also available on ebay and from LIndsey's engraving forum for about the same price.

For my hone I used a poly cutting board for the top of the case. The motor bolts directly to that. I simply put some wooden risers on the backside to hold the motor up off the table and stabilize the whole setup. Any case that will hold it and provide a base to sit your template or guide on will work.

This hone runs at 45rpm and that is intentional. It does not, ever, heat up the graver or other tool while sharpening. And yet it cuts fast enough that it doesn't take forever to redo a poiint. New tools, I usually hog off on a bench grinder so the hone is just doing touch up.

No machining required.

Final polishing, I put 14k grit diamond paste or powder on the back side of one of the hones..

I will likely not be updating this anymore as I do not intend to log in anymore.

Nice tip. Thanks.

scott99

good info, thanks

thanks you

very interesting... muchas gracias

Southtexas, thanks for the info, that's exactly the kind of motor I have been looking for to make my power hone,

Richard.

You are all most welcome. I would have posted earlier but my original hone required a lathe turned adapter. When I found the adapter on ebay and tried it, I was able to offer a way to do it without a machine shop. Have fun, use whatever part of it helps. BTW, the motor does have enough torque to cut a graver from scratch, it just takes a bit longer than a faster running one. I am happy to give back whatever I can.
Cliff

Thanks for the info. What did you use or get your metal box from?

I did not use a metal box. I used a poly cutting board for the top, wooden sides under the board to hold it level. A metal box would be great but I do not have a source for one. You could use sheet metal instead of the poly board, that would allow you to take advantage of the magnetic bases on some of the graver guides. Mine is not magnetic so it wasn't an issue for me.

one link was an error, I have corrected it. My apologies
Cliff

looks pretty slick! please tell us more about the graver fixture in the photo...

mitch said:

looks pretty slick! please tell us more about the graver fixture in the photo...

Click to expand...

That is my version of a dual angle fixture. Required both metal lathe and milling machine. To be blunt... if you own such equipment then you most likely can look at a grs fixture and figure how to make one with your machines. How will differ depending upon your machines and the accessories you have available. This one, in particular, is all aluminum and has a collet system to match my Powergraver. That is changing soon as I'm nearly finished with a quick change system for my Powergraver.
Nothing magical about such a device, but fabricating the needed parts isn't easily done with typical home shop tools.
I will answer specific questions if you have any.

Southtexas said:

I did not use a metal box. A metal box would be great but I do not have a source for one.

Click to expand...

if you ever decide to get fancier, just google "metal electronic enclosures"
(https://www.google.com/search?q=enc...=UTF-8#q=metal+electronic+enclosures&tbm=shop)

many companies have stock models to choose from...

One of the goals with this project was to make a low budget tool that could be replicated in a typical home shop. At one time there were many economical electronic 'project boxes', back in the days of tubes and transistors. Those disappeared as the market got smaller. There are metal enclosures available today, at inflated prices and in a scarce variety of sizes. So I didn't choose to use one for my hone.
For those that want the metal box, the parts can easily be used in one but... Be aware that torsional forces on the top of the case can be more than you realize, causing the top of the case to give or actually bend. If the case has a steel top you are more likely to have success. Avoid thin aluminum tops or reinforce them.
Cliff

More Expensive Variable "High Speed" Alternative

This may be a low cost budget breaker, but I didn't want to start a new thread. I wanted to add to a good idea.

Any thoughts on using this AC motor as a variable speed (up to 2800 rpm) alternative. A separate power supply isn't required as it uses AC. Just add power cord. It's used with lapidary machines so it should be a viable alternative.

http://www.inlandlapidary.com/singleproduct.asp?search=Flat+Lap+Machines&partnum=10610

Bill,
That indeed is a viable alternative. I have no personal experience with it but I have read a little about it. A bit more expense but not a budget breaker for some.
Not sure what kind of stuff you run into as far as mounting, might be worth spending a little more and just getting the machine in it's least expensive form?
Cliff

an afterthought... when was the last time you saw the motor for any tool for sale immediately as a separate item? Kinda sends up flags about how it might hold up under use? Just a thought, if anyone has used one of these and knows about that please post info on it for the rest of us. I can't afford to purchase one just to find out.

Cliff,

Good points.

The basic unit is $349.95. Price include 4 diamond disks.

Although I have the GRS dual angle sharpening feature, I'd be using the power hone with the Lindsay templates. So, the question becomes how easy can it be adapted/modified for this application? It has a DC motor, so maybe it could be modified with a "reverse". Could be a fun project.

http://www.inlandlapidary.com/singleproduct.asp?search=Flat+Lap+Machines&partnum=10680

my first attempt at a hone utilized a Black and Decker 3/8" variable speed (reversible) hand drill. Mounting it was a pain as was figuring out a method of holding the trigger at whatever speed I wanted. And I had to turn a mandrel to hold the disks, but it did work. It ran faster than I liked but otherwise it worked. I think the drill was under $20 new... Just another thought to add to the confusion, err I mean the conversation.
If I'd known about it at the time, a short piece of 5/16" rod and one of the brass adapters would have saved me turning a mandrel.
Cliff

Hi there Guy's and gal's,
I use one of the inland swap top "replacement" motor units as a budget "power hone" .
I ordered just the motor unit, and the brass shaft mounted bush (will hold a disc with 1/2 " arbour), then mounted a small piece of 1/2 " ply, (to slide my sharpening template on), to the front of the motor housing.
Simply adjust the brass bush, to the desired hight above the ply ( I set mine up at 1/2 ", as I use the Lindsay sharpening templates, as I have a Classic Airgraver).

Hope this helps,

Cheers, Paul.

P.s These motors spin quite fast, I think it's aprox. 2000 rpm up to 3500 rpm . I keep quenching the HSS, and M42 graver blanks often, to prevent overheating the tips. I can usually, shape a Lindsay Carbolt graver blank in just a few minutes. I Finish all of my gravers on the diamond bench stones,by hand for consistancy... PR.

Thank you for the input Paul. Always nice to hear from someone actually using what we're discussing.
Cliff

No problems, Southtexas !
I am actually glad, to be able to pay forward some info., that may be useful to the forum, and it's members.

Cheers, Paul.