Steve Weckel
Member
What must I do to use the large GRS engraviing block under the microscope or must I purchase the smaller centering bolck?
Using the larger GRS block under the microscope
- Thread starter Steve Weckel
- Start date
Tira
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Hello Steve and welcome to the forum. What type of problem are you having with the large magna block? Is it too tall to fit comfortably under the microscope at the height you need the microscope to be, or is the field of vision moving off your subject as you rotate the block?
I have had both issues in the past. I'm shorter than most on the forum so I have my magna block on 2 upside down milk crates to bring it to the correct height for me. This allows for my microscope to be much lower than if I had my magna block on a table or other stand. Some people have their blocks on a drill press stand so they can raise or lower the height as the need arises.
As for the object staying centered in the field of vision of the scope you have 2 options. The first is the centering vise which you know about. The other option is to get a turntable and put teflon feet on the bottom of your vise and scoot it around on the turntable. You will lock the rotation of your vise and use the rotation of the turntable. This way once you get the object lined up under your scope it will stay in the field of vision even if the vise or object is off center. It will also allow you to nudge the object back and forth as you work on it to keep it in sight.
Let me know if you need more information. I have used the magna block and GRS turntable with my scope for a long time and haven't had a problem. I've also recently purchased the micro block and it works well for scooting the work around under the scope too.
I have had both issues in the past. I'm shorter than most on the forum so I have my magna block on 2 upside down milk crates to bring it to the correct height for me. This allows for my microscope to be much lower than if I had my magna block on a table or other stand. Some people have their blocks on a drill press stand so they can raise or lower the height as the need arises.
As for the object staying centered in the field of vision of the scope you have 2 options. The first is the centering vise which you know about. The other option is to get a turntable and put teflon feet on the bottom of your vise and scoot it around on the turntable. You will lock the rotation of your vise and use the rotation of the turntable. This way once you get the object lined up under your scope it will stay in the field of vision even if the vise or object is off center. It will also allow you to nudge the object back and forth as you work on it to keep it in sight.
Let me know if you need more information. I have used the magna block and GRS turntable with my scope for a long time and haven't had a problem. I've also recently purchased the micro block and it works well for scooting the work around under the scope too.
Steve Weckel
Member
Thank you Tira for your prompt reply. Your feedback has helped considerably.
I am thinking about purchasing the Acrobat stand and the Maiji stereoscopic scope. The way GRS states the relationship of vice, centering the field of view, etc. would lead one to believe that the centering vice and block must be used. Personally I would like to spend the $600 plus on additional gravers, metals and wire to inlay.
The turntable sounds like the way to go.
Steve
I am thinking about purchasing the Acrobat stand and the Maiji stereoscopic scope. The way GRS states the relationship of vice, centering the field of view, etc. would lead one to believe that the centering vice and block must be used. Personally I would like to spend the $600 plus on additional gravers, metals and wire to inlay.
The turntable sounds like the way to go.
Steve
About 2 days ago, I made a simple turntable using 3/4" birch ply, cut into a circle, and the typical (cheap) 6" lazy susan bearing found at most hardware stores. The theory is perfect... you place the scope so that it is over the exact center of the turntable. Add the block to the turntable, with felt pads or plastic buttons under the tire, so it can slide a bit to reposition. Now, with your work mounted in the vise, move it until you see the particular scroll or detail you want to cut. By definition, it's on the center of rotation. You turn the turntable, not the vise, for curving cuts.
Everything's working slick except the cheap lazy susan bearing has a stick/slip kind of feel to it, and I will definitely need to replace it. There's a tool company that sells better lazy susan bearings. I have one on order. If it works well, it'll end up costing me maybe $25 total for a reasonable turntable setup.
Oh yes, it is possible to engineer the homemade turntable so that it has a variable drag. I epoxied a 1/2" aluminum round section in the plywood table, and this section extends downward, through the bearing, through the support table, and extend a couple of inches below. I driled and tapped the end of the round for a 1/4" screw, and by adding a couple of big washers, a spring, and a screw, I can add or remove rotational drag from the table. I don't know if I'll need that yet, but it's good to build it into the system. It's there if I need it.
I don't know if that's what your question relates to. A better setup: Many engravers use a floor drill press, the type with a round table that revolves. The drill-press head is removed, and the table height is adjustable.
Everything's working slick except the cheap lazy susan bearing has a stick/slip kind of feel to it, and I will definitely need to replace it. There's a tool company that sells better lazy susan bearings. I have one on order. If it works well, it'll end up costing me maybe $25 total for a reasonable turntable setup.
Oh yes, it is possible to engineer the homemade turntable so that it has a variable drag. I epoxied a 1/2" aluminum round section in the plywood table, and this section extends downward, through the bearing, through the support table, and extend a couple of inches below. I driled and tapped the end of the round for a 1/4" screw, and by adding a couple of big washers, a spring, and a screw, I can add or remove rotational drag from the table. I don't know if I'll need that yet, but it's good to build it into the system. It's there if I need it.
I don't know if that's what your question relates to. A better setup: Many engravers use a floor drill press, the type with a round table that revolves. The drill-press head is removed, and the table height is adjustable.
pilkguns
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
the problem with off the shelf lazy susan bearings is that none of them are precise enough for microscope use. It is very disconcerting to be cutting a small round scroll and all of a sudden your vise shifts sideways an 1/8th of inch. I tried this approach myself many years ago and I know more recently GRS bought several different ones when they were trying to develop their lazy susan setup and I would'nt approve them because they were not consistent. So at the end, GRS had to manufacture them theirselves cutting the bearing slots into the discs themselves.
Tira
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Glad to help, Steve, that's what this place is all about.
The centering vise is a nice piece of equipment. I didn't get it because I needed the largest vise I could get for motorcycle parts, etc. and the magna block works for me.
As for the turntable, as Scott mentioned, you need a smooth, sturdy set up. I bought the GRS one and it has worked great. I've had it loaded up with over 100 lbs. before and it rotated perfectly without any hesitation or skips. If you are interested in building your own turntable there have been other posts about that subject in the past.
Good luck and keep hanging around - there is always someone available to talk shop.
The centering vise is a nice piece of equipment. I didn't get it because I needed the largest vise I could get for motorcycle parts, etc. and the magna block works for me.
As for the turntable, as Scott mentioned, you need a smooth, sturdy set up. I bought the GRS one and it has worked great. I've had it loaded up with over 100 lbs. before and it rotated perfectly without any hesitation or skips. If you are interested in building your own turntable there have been other posts about that subject in the past.
Good luck and keep hanging around - there is always someone available to talk shop.
fegarex
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Steve,
The Magnablock will work fine as long as you have a turntable base. As others said, you might have to adjust the height a bit depending on how tall you are. I prefer the drill press route myself. I have a round table with a modified bearing but if I did it again, I would just put the GRS turntable on it. There's nothing worse than a wobbly turntable.
The Magnablock will work fine as long as you have a turntable base. As others said, you might have to adjust the height a bit depending on how tall you are. I prefer the drill press route myself. I have a round table with a modified bearing but if I did it again, I would just put the GRS turntable on it. There's nothing worse than a wobbly turntable.
Jon C. Dake
Member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2006
- Messages
- 72
Hi Steve: I think that I may have posted this on a previous thread, but I made my turntable out of Corian. This stuff is great because you can make it a slippery as you want by sanding it with different grits of sandpaper. I used a bearing that I got from Lee Valley which is very smooth running, has a very low profile and has no wobble. Much superior the the cheap bearings that are sold at the local home improvement stores. I got the 9" bearing. http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&cat=3,44013&p=44014
Hello Tira.
May I suggest that you add your explanation shown in the above quote to the Members Tips column?
It is the shortest, clearest and best explanation of the problem that I have seen in print. Very well done.
It would be a great help to so many that struggle with the use of a microscope for engraving at first.
Best regards. John B.
Jon, that's the lazy susan bearing I bought! I'm very happy to hear it's a good one. Corian or some other rigid and flat material would make for a great turntable, better than my 3/4" ply, but from what I can feel so far, the plywood will also work.
So to summarize:
1) Solid base table/workbench top
2) Good quality lazy susan bearing
3) a round table: Say 12" diameter or size to suit
4) Engraving block with sliders under the tire.
5) Scope
For #4, any Home Depot type store will have a huge variety of sliders. I've tried felt, plastic, and even some so-called "magic" sliders. Each has a different feel. When I move the vise, I want there to be an initial resistance, then it pops free and slides great, and then finally settles in relatively firmly. The felt does that nicely. Others might want something more slippery, especially those that continue to cut while moving a 30 lb vise! I cannot do that... My cut must cease while moving the vise.
So to summarize:
1) Solid base table/workbench top
2) Good quality lazy susan bearing
3) a round table: Say 12" diameter or size to suit
4) Engraving block with sliders under the tire.
5) Scope
For #4, any Home Depot type store will have a huge variety of sliders. I've tried felt, plastic, and even some so-called "magic" sliders. Each has a different feel. When I move the vise, I want there to be an initial resistance, then it pops free and slides great, and then finally settles in relatively firmly. The felt does that nicely. Others might want something more slippery, especially those that continue to cut while moving a 30 lb vise! I cannot do that... My cut must cease while moving the vise.
i bought a used grs turntable on the forum for my magnablock. i situate both on a tripod made of common plumbers pipe. no fancy machining required. the pod top has a floor flange with a .5" thick slab of machine shop nylon to support the turntable. the pod height can be adjusted if needed, by simply changing to a longer/shorter vertical pipe section. the grs turntable/magnablock combo works great for all the hand work i do, under the scope, or otherwise.
Tira
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Thanks John B. I added it to the "Tips" section. 
Steve Weckel
Member
WOW! Everyone, thank you for all of the good information. It is rather daunting when first starting on a new path to even ask a question, but your openness and sharing attitudes lead me to believe this is going to be a wonderful trip.
Thank you all...
Steve
Thank you all...
Steve
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