tranferring images for bulino

KSnyder

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Hello all,
once the surface is prepared how do you folks go about transferring an image? I have a laser printer, acetate, acetone, etc. Drawing on a tiny / smallish object would seem tedious and hard to get propprtions right. suggestions please.
 

BrianPowley

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I use my New Hermes pantograph....(I think it is an XTL floor model). It "nails" the anatomical location of eyes,ears,muscles groups, etc.etc.
It is easy. It is fast and you can get the exact proportion to make it fit every single time.
 

cloutier

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dirtyjersey USA
how I transfer

1 prep metal with acetone to remove any oils
2 spray metal with fixatif
3 print image in reverse on parchment paper
4 place image onto metal (holding very still) burnish with a piece of wooden dowel
5 remove parchment paper
6 mist with fixatif to lock toner in

keep in mind I don't know what I'm talking about but it works for me Lol
2011-09-09_12-38-08_174.jpg
 

tundratrekers@mtaonline.n

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When does the use of such implements(such as pantographs,transfers of art not drawn by the artists hand) change the engravers work from "ART" to that of a mere copyist,or general craftsman.
I remember reading an account of Winston Churchill,drawing and redrawing many,many times ,the head of a mountain lion,the size of a pencil eraser,directly on the gun.
Thats art!!!! From the artists hand.
I read many times that masters of today think engravers today are producing finer specimens of engraving than in times past.
I wonder how many of todays "elite" could produce work equal to our predecessors,without the use of all the aids that the industry is using today.
And also,I have seen a gun by Robert Swartly,where he even engraved,"after art by so and so",right under the scene,in plain sight.
When does/did it become okay to not give reference to the origin of the art.mike
 

BrianPowley

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KSnyder, I thought you were just gathering info on how different engravers transfer images...sorry about that!
mike (tundratrekers), your comments could make for an interesting "thread" all by itself.
 

Marrinan

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Mike, You are getting into very deep water. Could be an interesting discussion or one He** of a fight ending in hurt feelings and locked threads. Fred
 

KSnyder

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Brian,
well, yeah, I have used the acetone transfer method for lettering etc and smoke pulls too to put image on metal but the bulino is pretty small...........so that was my question how you more talented guys/ gals than me go about it because I haven't tried bulino before but I purchased the DeCamillius dvd and want to try it. The dvd is xcellent imho to show the cutting but he didn't mention any transfer method.I may try reducing an image and use the acetone method. Right now I just need something "quick & dirty" to get me started.
And to answer Mikes question, I think most engravers from bottom to top use transfer methods of some sort at some time or other especially guys or gals that teach and use the same images over & over for study.
 

BrianPowley

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Ok KSnyder! I understand you now! I think you're going to find that anything "quick and dirty" will give you something that looks "quick and dirty". Doing it right takes time and that's why some engravers work is consistently stellar.
You're going in the right direction and you are getting info that brings decades of experience with it.
 

FANCYGUN

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Just because you are able to mechanically transfer something does not mean you have the artistic vision, the eye hand coordination, the dexterity, the stamina or the technique to execute it well. Art will always prevail. YES many of us are actually capable of drawing even if we use some mechanical means. :pencil:
 

AndrosCreations

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I know a few people who are really good artists/creators... It's something I've always struggled with but I shouldn't let that stop me.

Now that I know a little bit more about how to engrave someone else's artwork... I need to go to the pencil and master that.

Here's a picture I drew about 8 years ago of my girlfriend (now my wife)... Just to show that I'm not totally ignorant when it comes to the pencil, no pantograph, tracing or other means were used as an aid, and no animals harmed :pencil:
 

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Donny

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Ksnyder,

I use Tom Whites clear transfer method for Bulino. Big thing for me is once i print the transfer out on acetate i then take a hair dryer to the design or figure. This drys the design so it is easier to burnish and not have it smear between the acetate and the surface. It keeps the design tight and therefore easy to pick at:cool:

Donny
 

GTJC460

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I use my New Hermes pantograph....(I think it is an XTL floor model). It "nails" the anatomical location of eyes,ears,muscles groups, etc.etc.
It is easy. It is fast and you can get the exact proportion to make it fit every single time.

I'm curious. How do you use the pantograph? Do you just trace over a paper image? Or are you cutting some kind of master template to use in the pantograph?
 

mrthe

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[joke on]Andy...... this is make with photoshop!!!!![joke off] great potrait congratulations ;)
I know a few people who are really good artists/creators... It's something I've always struggled with but I shouldn't let that stop me.

Now that I know a little bit more about how to engrave someone else's artwork... I need to go to the pencil and master that.

Here's a picture I drew about 8 years ago of my girlfriend (now my wife)... Just to show that I'm not totally ignorant when it comes to the pencil, no pantograph, tracing or other means were used as an aid, and no animals harmed :pencil:
 

Andrew Biggs

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Be careful with transferring because sometimes you get too much information with the transfer.....especially using a microscope if you use one.

Sometimes it pays to simply trace the main outlines with a pen, or computer if you have the ability. Some main areas of muscle contour can be added by using a line of dots so they are not mistaken as being cuts. Basically this means breaking down the image till it is little more than outlines like in a coloring book for kids.

Then reduce/transfer how you like and by whatever means available.

You then have the problem of working the area and as you do this, the transfer can be obliterated ..........so it pays to very carefully trace over all this with a scriber so you can see what is happening in the actual metal.

All the detail is literally cut by eye and the dotted lines can help with main muscle/highlight/shadow areas so you know where to start.

Don't worry, trial and error will work as good as anything else :)

Cheers
Andrew
 

SamW

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KS...I use a camera obscura as per Meeks book The Art of Engraving. I made mine out of an old 35mm enlarger, removing the lamp section and placing a small frosted glass in its place. Cheap and easy to use, have been using it for many years. I regard all transfers as guides only to get proportions correct and eyes, etc., in the right place then I redraw on the metal until satisfied it is correct. Takes time and practice mainly to get your mind working to actually "see" that which you are viewing and drawing. At least it did for me.
 

BrianPowley

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Bert: Yep just trace over the picture. Trace the outline,eyes,ears,nose, hairline----all of it---pantograph the lines directly onto the gun,knife whatever.
or you can make a template on a piece of steel plate and tranfer it to the gun,etc.,etc.
 

GTJC460

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Bert: Yep just trace over the picture. Trace the outline,eyes,ears,nose, hairline----all of it---pantograph the lines directly onto the gun,knife whatever.
or you can make a template on a piece of steel plate and tranfer it to the gun,etc.,etc.

Thanks! I'm going to give this a try. I haven't ventured into bulino yet, but soon.
 
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