To ink or not to ink Chris' new bulino casting

[rod]

I know this question has been answered somewhere in the forum, but can't find it ...

Congratulations, Chris, on your new DVD on bulino! I have received the kit, including your casting, and new graver bit.

Could you, or others, let me know if I should leave the casting un-inked, and if it is okay to ink it, what is the best ink, black roll-on rubber stamp ink, or?

Scott wrote that a darker casting material is to be preferred, but that would be for the future, and he says that inking will let you see the art results better, but not see the cuts as well?

best

Rod

 

[Tim Wells]

Rod,
I inked mine with printers etching ink but you can also use that toll paint in the craft section at Wally world it dries a little quick though.

 

[Lee]

Rod,

I'll begin with the disclaimer..........I have not tried this. I am wondering whether it makes sense to "ink" with a black of dark watercolor. This should allow removal for study of cut depth and put back in to study other things. Just a thought.

 

[rod]

Tim and Lee,

Thank you for these tips! I will try both of these on some other castings before applying to the bulino casting. If it worked, the idea of removable dark water color would be good, and give the best of both world's.

best

Rod

 

[John B.]

Rod,
The best way is to dust it with a very fine black powder on a fine brush.
This can be removed by shaking or blowing the surplus off.
It leaves enough to show the "art" as well as the cuts.
You can get most of it off, 95% to return it to "cuts only" with a stronger blast of air and a clean brush.
Fine black powder?
Brownell's Epoxy Black or art store Bone Black or better yet Ivory Black.
In a pinch scrape the lead of a pencil gently with a razor blade.
Not as good but it will work.
Give it a try on a test piece first, has worked for me and many of my old students.
Best regards.

 

[rod]

Excellent, John!

Since I have many off-cuts of 19th century ivory, I will seal a chunk and fire it in my forge, and see if I can make my own ivory black.

I will let you know if I am successful.

best

Rod

 

[John B.]

Good deal, Rod.
Let is know how your method of making your own ivory black works out, please.
What they have in the art stores is not the true ivory black anymore.
Best,

 

[jimzim75]

I like being able to see the tool path and lines, ink can make them difficult to see.
I think if I use any it will be water color, so I can take it out again if I want.

Jim

 

[rod]

Jim,

I am going to experiment with Lee's water color and John B's ivory black on a less important casting and see what works best before I go the the vey detailed bulino casting from Chris. Thanks for your input!

best

Rod

 

[Christian DeCamillis]

Rod, The reason I decided not to ink them is because if you ink them for the best look, it's not the best for study. I usually use oil paint, because, it doesnt dry fast and you can control how much paint remains. I have tried bone black water color and it works almost as well as oil, but it does set up faster.
The reason I didn't go to a dark color resin is because after someone was done studying it , they might want to color it to include in their collection.
I would reccomend that if you want to color them for study that you whipe out most of the paint so it looks like a bad job of coloring, that way you will still see the cuts well. Then If you want, later you can go back and add more color for just adding to your collection. I hope this helps Chris

 

[rod]

Chris,

Thank you for this information. Since I have a lots of 19th century ivory off-cuts, I was thinking about making ivory black, in powdered charcoal form and, following from John B's post, just applying that as a temporary dust, to be brushed off?? I would, of course, try this out on a less important casting.

Rod

 

[BrianPowley]

Rod,
Another option would be to purchase an extra casting.
Ink one for viewing, leave one blank for study.

It would seem like an additional expense today, but if history is our "rear-view"mirror, I'm betting that these castings will only increase in value.

There's a real engraving "history in the making" taking shape these days.....

 

[John B.]

Brian, me bonny ladddie.
I can'na ken that the Scot in thee came up wi that one, HEE HEE.
Best,

 

[BrianPowley]

Aye,Johnnie....at least th' schillings I'm plan'n on usin' belongs to me Mrs.
She'll be a thank'n me when I'm deed 'n gone.

Frae Bonnie Scotland. (and Bloomingdale,Ohio)

 

[Doc Mark]

Chris,

I liked the non-inked plate for close study. However, I wish that GRS included a fine high quality, large photo of an inked plate. That way you have the best of both worlds. If I am actually cutting and trying to mimic some aspect of the study casting, it would be easier to look up at a photo.

Just a suggestion,

Loved the DVD.

Mark

 

[Ron Smith]

Hey guys, don't forget the display value of these plastic copies. When strangers come to your house or office, they are pretty intrigued with this unique art when they understand what it is. It is interesting and elegant on display and might open some doors. It always did for me.

It starts some interesting conversations too, and gives you an oportunity to show them what you do. They are also great little art gifts framed and raised on a dark background.

I have mine mounted in a frame that looks carved, and people never fail to go over and look at it........Just some ideas.

I dubbed them the "baseball cards of the engravers" and I think Brian might be right if we promote them as such.

Rod,

With your wood working ability, you ought to be able to make one hell of a shadow box, and in that case display your skills both as an engraver and wood worker and see what conversations insue. Of course you may not need that with your reputation, but just rambling as usual.

By the way, another ink you can use for blacking them is fingerprint ink. That is what I use, and it is really durable once it is cured.

Ron S

 

[Christian DeCamillis]

So I Have a question. Would most people prefer to have both options a dark color resin for study and a light one they can ink for their casting collection ? That would mean that some people would buy two and that of course wouldn't bother me whatsoever. Let me know. I would also like to know if everyone is satisfied with the quality of the castings? They shouldn't have any air bubbles at all. Thanks in advance Chris

 

[jimzim75]

Mine, turned out just fine.

Jim

 

[rod]

I have enjoyed reading all the useful postings !

Intrigued with John B's "Black Ivory" suggestion, I played hookie from my flute workbench yesterday, and had a try at recreating 'ivory charcoal', using wood charcoal in my blacksmith's forge as the heating fuel. Here is a wee slideshow, as the results appear to have turned out well, John and Chris, and I do believe the black ivory dust is a reversible technique. Take a look and see what you think ?

The slide show has to be split in several posts :

cut up the ivory

load the iron plumbing pipe

fire up the wood charcoal forge with hand blower

cook the pipe and contents to red hot, to char the ivory, without access to oxygen

cool under water hose

open the iron cap to reveal nice black chips

test for full charring, by sawing a sample in two .... good!

pound the chips between two steel surfaces to start the milling process

continue with marble mortar and pestle, which rapidly powders the ivory black

view of Chris' casting, shown as it comes from GRS, un-inked

use a soft artist's paint brush to dip into the powder, and lightly 'paint' the casting to fill the tiny cuts in and reveal the 'art' look. It is not too important that all grains are milled fine, as any larger chunks will not go into the fine cuts and be brushed off. Only a tiny amount is needed to bring the image to life

take a close look down the microscope

wiping with water and tissue, the look may be lightened

more water washing almost returns the casting to white

go to next batch of pictures upcoming to see more

Rod

 

[rod]

more pics continuing from above