The way I transfer to a practice plate

[hybridfiat]

I must stress that this is the way IM having to do a transfer because I cant get any other method to work and Im stuck for resources being on a remote mine in the Aussie outback.
This will obviously only work for flat smooth surfaces and I wouldnt use it on a paying job. Superglue is difficult to get out of triggers etc:big grin: I am practicing my drawing but not up to scratch yet, its' been a life saver for me as I now have perfectly defined figures to practice on.
OK so, I find a suitable scroll or figure and size it darken and get rid of any colour or shading in the background.
Print it (laser only not inkjet) onto a sheet of paper

Then cut a peice of aluminium foil and glue and sellotape over the figure shiny side up. Ive no idea if shiny side up helps.

Then print the figure on the alfoil.

Cut the alfoil out and put a drop of superglue (Krazyglue) on it. Not too much.
Face down on the very clean practice plate and sandwich it between another very flat piece of steel. Leave in the vice for 1/2 and hour and carefully peel the paper and alfoil off. The plasticised printing ink should remain on the plate.
I just engrave through it. There is a little detritus while cutting but otherwise it seems to work very well.
Superglue can be removed by soaking in acetone.

 

[KCSteve]

Pretty clever! :thumbs up:

Check out this thread for info on the damar / baking parchment method.

Sounds like you've shown that aluminum foil will work in place of the parchment (although I'm sure it's a bit harder to see through for positioning ) Good tip to keep in mind, just in case. I may have to try it just because.

 

[fegarex]

While this is a different idea on how to transfer I'm not sure you couldn't get the same quality results by just using acetone like many have done for years.
If you haven't tried it, you just need to place the laser print face down on the metal and wipe it with the acetone. It does take some practice to know how "wet" you need but the transfer is usually really good.

 

[tolesh]

You don't want to fool with super glue too much. It can cause cancer.

 

[hybridfiat]

Cheers guys, Ive tried a few ways to do this but I must stress Im 1000kms from a shop....any shop so I have to made do.
I dont like superglue much, the fumes are strong, it can glue you instantly to some really inconvenient items but it works.
Just as an afterthought super glue is used extensively to glue skin instead of sutures. There has never to my knowledge been any reliable report of cancer attributed to cyanoacrylates. Cyanide is a poison affecting the mitochondrial stage of cellular respiration by blocking the electron transport chain but when cyanoacrylate is polymerized by the moisture on the skin or in the nasal passages it becomes inert.

 

[fegarex]

Well, I assumed you had acetone since that is how you cleaned off the super glue.

 

[hybridfiat]

I dont. I havnt cleaned the plates yet. I have used acetone in emergency to remove children attatched firmly to toys, themselves or other children. Im assuming it will soften the SG on the plates as well.
Im not bothered if it doesnt as they arent for display.
I tried a variety of different solvents (isopropyl alcohol, pure medical alcohol, thread lock precleaner etc) and bases (artist's varnish and Truoil) laser and inkjet, paper, tracing paper, acetate and greaseproof. The best I could get was to use the tracing paper and a pencil to trace the design and then burnish it onto the varnished surface. Nothing else would give me even an outline.
I will get some acetone when Im in Perth next but for now Ive 4 plates with a variety of clear designs to keep me entertained after work.
Thanks for all the great suggestions and hints on this site they are invaluable
Regards
Steve

 

[KCSteve]

Acetone is the simplest transfer method for those of us with laser printers. I wet a paper towel with it and dab the back of the paper to do the transfer.

Try one of the lowest tech methods I know - pencil and clay (or wax).

Get a waxy / oily film on your metal. I've used both Renaissance Wax and modeling clay - the wax you rub on with your finger, the clay you daub over the surface.

Take your drawing and put it on a lightbox or up against a window. Trace your design on the back side using a soft pencil - you want a nice, dark line.

Place the drawing face up over the metal and burnish over the lines. The graphite will come off of the line (most of it) and stick to the film on the metal. Handle it carefully! It's a very delicate transfer and you'll probably want to go over the lines with a scribe to keep them from getting touched out of existence. That also lets you do any necessary adjustments / corrections.

Because I have my portable set up I like these low-tech, do 'em anywhere kind of things.

 

[Les Riddell]

when using laser prints in a pinch you can use petrol (gasoline) in place of acetone. it stinks but it works. i just tried steve's method using pure bee wax softened with a bit of turps to make it sticky and it works great. very soft 4B pencil

 

[hybridfiat]

Thanks, Im back in Perth today so Ill experiment with the acetone and laser print.

 

[hybridfiat]

Success!

I tried acetone and no go even soaking the print in it had no effect on the ink it is just too well cooked into the paper. However the baking paper and varnish works a treat and as long as I keep the baking paper still while burnishing the pattern the lines come out clear and dark.:thumbs up:
Thanks to all for the tips.

 

[airamp]

Hi,

Here is a link to some soultions that work great with baking parchment and a laser printer...

http://igraver.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4868&highlight=airamp

Much better than actone

AirAmp

 

[WhereDidMyHammerGo]

I use double sided sticky tape. After one half is done I lay the tape along a scribed center line and draw the pattern on the back side of the tape with a .3mm pencil. Pull it off and flip to the other side of the centerline. I use a carbide scribe with a knife edge to scribe the other side. Regular scribes drag and tear the tape.