stone setting questions

[KSnyder]

Hello all,
I've been trying to set some stones with varying degrees of luck but mostly a disaster.
My question is: when gypsy setting a stone, how do you stop it from moving around in the metal when you try to burnish it? I only have a hand burnisher, no power, I do have setting burrs, round burrs, 45 & 90 deg Hart burrs.Stones I have been working with are 3-4mm cz's.
This type of setting looks fairly simple, but...............somethin' ain't quite right.
Please respond if able.
thanks,
Kent

 

[Tira]

KSnyder, A problem that has plagued us all at times....

I have found that the stone should fit very snugly into the seat - especially in the gypsy/flush setting. When you are setting other types of settings a slight amount of movement can be compensated for. However in the gypsy setting it runs around on you. Sometimes I get a bit of beeswax on the stone and it helps. Also, I have held the stone still with my left thumb nail while working at it with my graver in the right hand. I had a much better time with this setting once I drilled the seat properly and it fit without wiggle. Hope that helps. There are certainly many people with more knowledge than I in this field. Maybe they will have another idea.

 

[Daniel Houwer]

Hi Kent,

Tira is right, a snugg fit is very important to gypsi set a stone. When you make the bearing for your stont and your stone can move around you will have a hell of a job to set it if you can at all.
Take care to make a bearing in wich your stone fits snugly and then setting is no problem.

The next link is in dutch but I hope the pictures are good enough.
http://www.zilvermaan.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=302

As you can see I don't use the burrs with a point and a cilindrical part above it.
The burrs I use are called hart burs I think. They have the shape of a brilijant cut stone with the shaft where the table should be. They won't burr away material you really need to set the stone with when you wobble a bit with your handpiece.

Hope this helps,

Daniel

 

[Dmitry Martinov]

Daniel, the stone was set in the gold?

 

[Mike Cirelli]

Kent as stated it is critical to have a good fit. I start with a twist drill, then a bud bur, then a setting bur. When you fit the stone in the seat if you have a wobble the seat is not correct and needs adjusted. When you fit the stone in and put some pressure with you finger nail the wobble will leave a slight burnish in the seat, those are your high spots that need attention. I personal like to burnish the metal out from the top edge and the metal will go down and onto the stone. It's hard to explain in words. But there are times when you have to burnish the metal down over the stone. You can make a good tool out of a fork tine shaped into a flat curve end. Stainless forks are fairly soft and won't scratch most hard stones. By forcing the top edge outward it forces the metal underneath inward over the girdle of the stone. Then you can around the inside edge with a polished blunt tip in a smooth circular sweep. That's about as good as I can explain it.

 

[Daniel Houwer]

Dmitry,
This was silver. Gold is no problem either. The harder the metal to set in the tighter (more acurate) the seat for the stone should be.

 

[KSnyder]

Daniel, the pictures were excellent,thanks for sharing them. I could see the fit is critical.
Tira & Mike, your explantions were very helpful also as I don't speak Dutch.
Only here on the forum could I get this type of help.
thanks again,
Kent

 

[Dmitry Martinov]

Daniel, could you make tutorial in English like I mentioned about Mokume Gane on the Netherland jewellery forum. I think a lot of people will appreciate it.

 

[Daniel Houwer]

Hmm, oke, I will do my best but it could take a while though

 

[Dmitry Martinov]

THANK YOU Daniel I can't send you the PM. There is the message that you need to clean up your message box.

Daniel,

I think that I should start with silver + copper. I don't want to disturb jeweller's work and you can give the answer when you will have more free time. Thank you for helping.

Regards
Dmitry