stippling

[jerrywh]

Recently there was a post asking for some information on stippling. The person had a problem with the tool digging in and making spots. I found this solution when I had the same problem. Use the smallest hand piece you have to reduce the weight. Turn the speed down low. Don’t use too much of an acute angle on the point. The problem occurs when you cannot move the tool fast enough and it will not bounce. I have the best effect when I allow the tool to bounce and I achieve this by holding the tool like a pencil. If you put your finger on top of the hand piece it will tend to stop it from bouncing. The bounce will help the tool move from one spot to another. The stippling I do is very fine and looks like crushed velvet to the eye. One more tip, try to keep the tool as vertical as possible. Tilting the tool will make the stippling give off a shiny appearance.

 

[dlilazteca]

Can you post a picture of your point?

Saludos,

Carlos

 

[monk]

that was a mistake i made for a very long time - that of not holding the stippler straight up & down. the up & down position does improve the appearance of the work. to me, that's more important than the stippler tool shape. jm2cw

 

[Sam]

My best results are with the GRS Maestro EX handpiece with 1.8mm C-Max sharpened to a needle point and the machine running 5-6,000 SPM.

 

[mrthe]

I agree with Sam high speed work better for me too.

 

[jerrywh]

Sam.
Never tried that fast. I tried it at about 4000 and never was satisfied. I'm using the monarch hand piece.

 

[jerrywh]

I tried the stippling at 6000 and it worked very well but seems to be very light. It work great around small spots and next to flush inlays because the tool doesn't jump much. It produces a much different look that the heavier stippling with the slow speed.

 

[mrthe]

The point that you use to stippling is important too , if is correctly sharpned or not, if you use a round point or a piramidal point give you a more black or grey effect, play a bit too with the stippling point to see the different effects

 

[jerrywh]

I have at least 5 different points for stippling. I use these to achieve different effects in my work. I hope to have a real goody for Vegas this year. I will be niter bluing it today. It is a 1750 Jaeger rifle.

 

[Sam]

You can stipple with the Monarch but in my opinion it's a bit underpowered for that. The 901 is much better, and the Maestro EX is the best handpiece I've tried for that.

 

[jerrywh]

Sam.
I have been thinking about the maestro ex. according to GRS it is about 4" long. Does that pose a problem with holding it vertically under the scope or what?? I have four hand pieces now.

 

[mrthe]

Sam is the Maestro EX comparable to the 901 like power? Just to have an idea about it, i know that is more ergonomic.

 

[Sam]

Sam.
I have been thinking about the maestro ex. according to GRS it is about 4" long. Does that pose a problem with holding it vertically under the scope or what?? I have four hand pieces now.

Of course you can't hold it vertically under the scope, but you can tilt the vise.

 

[Sam]

Sam is the Maestro EX comparable to the 901 like power? Just to have an idea about it, i know that is more ergonomic.

It's based on a 901 but has more power. Not sure exactly what's different but it must be the spring and piston. I know it works MUCH better and faster with deeper stippling that I get with my normal 901 with light spring.

 

[mrthe]

Ok thank you in this case have to work great for sculpting and texturing too,very interesting!

 

[dlilazteca]

This is the one Sam is taking about i tried it a Gerrys and it works great, really comftable in the hand.

Gerrys the hand model by the way

Saludos,

Carlos

 

[don hicks]

So, Jerry is the hand model, I thought it might be George Castanza.
Cheers
Don