Shading technique

[Sam]

This was a leaf script lesson from today and the shading technique used here might be of interest to some members.

Especially in the closeup view of the center section of the letter...note that the length of the shading lines varies in a random way. By doing this, a more natural looking feathered edge is possible which creates a softer highlight. If the lines were all the same length, the edge of the shading becomes harder. Sometimes you want that, but in this case varying the length produces the best result.

In other areas you'll see that keeping some strategically placed whitespace adds shape and volume to the leaves.

This was cut with a 120° graver.

Images ©Copyright 2016 Sam Alfano All Rights Reserved

 

[Omar Haltam]

that looks very nice, and the shading does a make a huge difference.
Were the shade lines also cut with the 120 graver?
thanks again Sam

 

[RDP]

Thank you Sam, this has opened my eyes regarding the purpose of the white spaces when shading, I usually fail to see past the excellent design and workmanship, I still have to learn to read between the lines I guess,

 

[algym]

Gran consejo Sam... Gracias por compartirlo...

Saludos

Luis

 

[davidshe]

Very helpful, thanks Sam!

 

[speeedy6]

Sam my shade lines stink! Do you use a heel on your graver when shading ? I think I'm starting my lines by riding the graver on the heel where both sides meet instead of cutting with the face . That sort of just pushes the metal aside making the cut look like a plowed furrow. I'm just not getting that fine, slight beginning cut. I think I'm gonna try cutting with no heel at all. Will I have a problem with no heel? Thank you for posting .

 

[Sam]

While it's not impossible to engrave without a heel, I see no advantage and I wouldn't be able to do the kind of work I do without one. I also start the shade lines by scooting the heel across the surface a short ways before I enter the metal and make an incision. This gives me a very fine tapered startup and enables me to achieve better grey tones.

The graver I used for this is a 120° graver shaped with a GRS EasyGraver fixture to a heel length of approximately 1/4mm.

 

[tdelewis]

Understanding good shading, but understanding is easier than execution. I can draw good shading but when it comes to putting it on the metal it doesn't come out as good. I always start by rubbing the heel but I don't get those beginning fine lines. I just haven't developed the fine motor skills necessary and have a tendency to use a little downward pressure, thus giving a wider beginning line. If I use less pressure I start to lose control. I have practiced by just making straight line cuts from light to dark and they look OK. When it becomes complex they don't look as good.

 

[Omar Haltam]

i think if you are using a pneumatic hand piece you can adjust the air pressure to very light
so when you go to do the cuts they are light. at least on the Lindsay classic that works for me. it is the collet in the hand piece that I can adjust.

 

[Sam]

I don't do any special adjustments when shading. It's the same graver, same handpiece, same settings, etc. It does require a lot of practice to develop the necessary control for fine lines, and I think the finger-on-the-top users struggle more than those who use a traditional grip because it causes more downward pressure on the graver.



I did this around 1989 and it's shaded by hand pushing, so you also have that option if the handpiece isn't getting the results you're after. I should add that this is a perfect example of over-shading. Way too many lines.

 

[Omar Haltam]

Thanks Sam, that is a great study piece for us to look at carefully, will have to save it on the desktop to come back to for examples

 

[Eric Olson]

Those fine lines require a feather touch - just the weight of the graver seems to be enough to make those initial hairlines.
It almost takes a bit of "unlearning" to use such little effort.

 

[jbrayout]

Beautiful, thanks for sharing.
Jenny

 

[1911maker]

Sam, quick question, what treatment do you use to get the blackened regions in the scroll work?

Thanks!

 

[Idaho Flint]

Thank you so much Sam. I love these little tidbits from you. It is these small things that help make me a better engrave.

Mike

 

[silverchip]

I like and prefer shading with a hand powered graver for the feel and control vs. the air powered graver but that is just me. I am sure that in most instances an individual can adapt to what works for them. Thanks for showing Sam!!!!