Joe
Member
What's a good depth to go with a bur? My smallest bur is half mm and I have been going about half mm deep with it on Ron Smith plates. Also, how do YOU control the dust? Thank you.
Question: Rotary tools
- Thread starter Joe
- Start date
Tira
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Joe,
I usually use a 1/4 mm on the knives I've been doing which works for me. The depth is going to depend on the artwork and piece.
For the dust, I use a slower speed on the NSK rotary around 24,000. It doesn't kick up the same kind of dust as with the faster speeds. If it gets very dusty and I have a lot of material to excavate I put the hose of my vacuum up near the vise and turn it on low while I work. This can be very noisy if you don't have a quiet type vacuum, but any kind of air suction where it will evacuate the dust away from you is good.
I usually use a 1/4 mm on the knives I've been doing which works for me. The depth is going to depend on the artwork and piece.
For the dust, I use a slower speed on the NSK rotary around 24,000. It doesn't kick up the same kind of dust as with the faster speeds. If it gets very dusty and I have a lot of material to excavate I put the hose of my vacuum up near the vise and turn it on low while I work. This can be very noisy if you don't have a quiet type vacuum, but any kind of air suction where it will evacuate the dust away from you is good.
fegarex
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Another thing to remember is that "dust" is really really fine metal chips you can breath in. A mask or respirator should be worn if you do much of this.
As Tira mentioned a lot of people use a vac system much like a dust collector for woodworking as well.
As Tira mentioned a lot of people use a vac system much like a dust collector for woodworking as well.
To cut down both the dust and noise try a magnet close to the area.
The rare earth kind are low and flat and don't get in the way.
I save all my old refer stick-on calendars for this.
This works if your dealing with carbon steel and not all stainless or non-magnetic.
The rare earth kind are low and flat and don't get in the way.
I save all my old refer stick-on calendars for this.
This works if your dealing with carbon steel and not all stainless or non-magnetic.
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VERY clever as usual John. I hadn't thought of that.
I have a suggestion for a good source for VERY strong ones. Anyone have electric toothbrushes? Specifically Sonicare "E" models. The disposable brushes contain two tiny "rare earth" magnets.
When the brushes wear out for brushing teeth, I had been using them as a handy little brush that could be placed in strategic locations using the magnets in the bottom. One day when I decided to cut the bottom off for access to a tight spot, I found the magnets are easy to pry off the plate under the plastic cover. They are .2" X .4" and .1" thick, and amazingly strong for that diminutive size!
Joe
Member
WOW! Good answers! I got to love your idea, John B. It's so simple and low budget that I should have thought of it already. I enjoy that sort of thing. I've already put it into service.
Fegarex, Thank you for mentioning the mask. I already have been using one, but I suppose a post like this is not complete without the mention. I hope all readers pay heed.
Peter E, I have another brand of toothbrush with a new brush but plan to disassemble it as soon as practicle. Thank you.
Tira, I have been using the rotary that came with the Graver-max. It goes 400,000 rpm. I've never used the NSK but will buy one tomorrow, or not. I've been wavering all day. The vac on a SLOW speed? I was in the catalogs looking at more and more CFMs. I worried the tool would be pulled out of my hand. But slow? I'll try it.
Anyhow, I'm trying whatever it takes, but I will master the rotary tool. Thank you all for the advise. What a great forum! Thanks to Sam also.
Fegarex, Thank you for mentioning the mask. I already have been using one, but I suppose a post like this is not complete without the mention. I hope all readers pay heed.
Peter E, I have another brand of toothbrush with a new brush but plan to disassemble it as soon as practicle. Thank you.
Tira, I have been using the rotary that came with the Graver-max. It goes 400,000 rpm. I've never used the NSK but will buy one tomorrow, or not. I've been wavering all day. The vac on a SLOW speed? I was in the catalogs looking at more and more CFMs. I worried the tool would be pulled out of my hand. But slow? I'll try it.
Anyhow, I'm trying whatever it takes, but I will master the rotary tool. Thank you all for the advise. What a great forum! Thanks to Sam also.
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Sometimes it helps, when a person is just beginning to get used to a high speed rotary tool - to use two hands...
You can wrap some thick tape around the working end, about one inch back, leaving a tab to grip with the fingers of your second hand.
This seems to stabilize the tool a little more. Bracing your elbows also helps.
Brian Marshall
SJAS
Stockton, CA USA 95209
209-477-0550
instructor@jewelryartschool.com
http://jewelryartschool.com/
You can wrap some thick tape around the working end, about one inch back, leaving a tab to grip with the fingers of your second hand.
This seems to stabilize the tool a little more. Bracing your elbows also helps.
Brian Marshall
SJAS
Stockton, CA USA 95209
209-477-0550
instructor@jewelryartschool.com
http://jewelryartschool.com/
Good suggestions Brian. Additionally, using the NSK or similar 300,000 - 400,000 rpm tool, it seems much safer to remove material in a pulling toward you stroke and NOT pushing away. Less chance of a mishap it seems.
ChrisB
Elite Cafe Member
A Question,? Which is the better of the Two, NSK or the one From GRS, I Think That I'm going to need one for the Carving work i'm busy with. At The Moment I Only use my Lindsay. And some scrapers.
leroytwohawks
Elite Cafe Member
Chris, I think the GRS Ultra 850 or other type high speed drill would be a quicker system that the slower 30,000-40,000RPM speed drills. If I had been using something other than CO2 with my graver I would have kept the one that I sold here last month.
Kevin
Kevin
KCSteve
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
I was taught (by either Lee or Fancygun) to use the thumb of my other hand to help stabilize the tool. Also to use light strokes coming toward me.
I think of it as a metal eraser - you just ever so delicately brush away a little at a time.
I'm going to have to add in the magnet dust collector - probably in a baggie, to combine in an idea posted earlier.
Keep an eye on any little gadgets you're looking at buying, as well as books and other things. A lot of packages these days have magnetic closures on them. I just got a little micro mouse / usb hub / headset package for my travel computer and the package for it had a flap held closed with two very nice little super magnets (paired with some very thin steel disks). Didn't keep the dime-sized steel disks but I keep thinking I should have, just in case. One of the magnets is going down to my bench in a baggie for rotary work though.
I think of it as a metal eraser - you just ever so delicately brush away a little at a time.
I'm going to have to add in the magnet dust collector - probably in a baggie, to combine in an idea posted earlier.
Keep an eye on any little gadgets you're looking at buying, as well as books and other things. A lot of packages these days have magnetic closures on them. I just got a little micro mouse / usb hub / headset package for my travel computer and the package for it had a flap held closed with two very nice little super magnets (paired with some very thin steel disks). Didn't keep the dime-sized steel disks but I keep thinking I should have, just in case. One of the magnets is going down to my bench in a baggie for rotary work though.
KCSteve and others.
I find the very thin store brand sandwich bags work the best.
Dump the whole thing and then recover the magnet.
I find the very thin store brand sandwich bags work the best.
Dump the whole thing and then recover the magnet.
Joe
Member
Well, I wavered until I just ordered the NSK, largly on your suggestion, Tira. Linda at GRS said the same thing about lower speed. I'm sure that I will be happy with my choice.
Also , I solved the noisy vacuum issue. There is a pocket door to a closet. The back of the closet has a pocket door to an attic. So I put the shop-vac in the attic and ran an extension cord to a powerstrip with a switch. That and extra vac hose and I can turn the vac on and off at the bench while it's barely audible.
Also , I solved the noisy vacuum issue. There is a pocket door to a closet. The back of the closet has a pocket door to an attic. So I put the shop-vac in the attic and ran an extension cord to a powerstrip with a switch. That and extra vac hose and I can turn the vac on and off at the bench while it's barely audible.
another gem: those who use rotary under the scope-- if you're concerned about your lens getting hit with metal particles, try this. i stretch some very thin, clear sandwich bag or similar clear thin plastic tight over the objective and keep it tight with a heavy rubber band. if the plastic is thin, clear , and tight, it wont obscure your vision that much
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