Help, please: Re-cutting Remington 1100?

Birddog97

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Anyone ever re-cut a Remington 1100 with the factory stamped pattern? A friend asked me about engraving over this pattern on his and his wife's 12 and 20 ga. 1100's (a two-fer job). I told him I had concidered engraving over my personal 1100, but I had not had it out of the safe since buying my O/U. I'd have to pulll it out and see what kind of design I could come up with.

Well, I pulled it out and was dissapointed. I remebered the pattern differently in my mind. I have been looking at this pattern for a few hours and I just can't get my head around how to start. My intuition says theres a way to re-design this pattern and expend it, but my eyes and brain can't seem to put it all together yet. Anyway, thought I'd ask the brain trust. Have any of ya'll ever done a job like this, and if so, I'd love to see pictures of how you approached the design. 002.jpg
 

Birddog97

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Andrew,
That would be too easy. Unfortunatly, those stampings are pretty deep. I may just high temp solder a big sheet of sterling silver over it and start with a blank slate.
 

K Frei

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Do you know someone with a laser welder? if your looking to fill it to start with a blank slate seems to me that would make reasonable sense... K Frei
 

Dave London

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Tig will work also but not as neat and clean as laser. Most of the 1100 I have see are way to deep to file off they need to be filled in.
 

Ray Cover

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I agree. Laser welders can do some amazing things.

I would be afraid that without a mechanical footing the solder would fall out over time if you just melt it in. If you actually apply enough heat to truly solder the letters full you are likely to heat warp the action. On top of that the color will never really match and you will always be able to see the silver after the job is done.

JMHO,

Ray
 

monk

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i think the laser weldors are primarily for very fine jewelry, such as chains & tiny stuff not requiring too much power. not sure, but i think one would have problems trying to follow that round -bottomed groove. i'd think to assure graver control, you'd have to go way too deep to be practical.
 

Twinck

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A laser will work, but be prepared to pay for the time to fill it in.. On the up side, you'll be left with a complete fuse of metal.. No joins or anything.. Unless you know someone that can braze on a solid lay of sterling (which I'd estimate would need to be about 1mm thick, maybe $200 worth?) this may affect the steel though.. Maybe do the entire side in 24k inlay? ;-)

Tom
 

JJ Roberts

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I restored a badly rusted Remington 1100 last year I first made an impression with clay of the extisting engraving so I had an good picture to go by,and filed and block sanded until fine finish.Now I recut the design on both sides with 120 graver then reblued,when finish you could'nt tell it was ever roll stamped engraved.Brian what are foo foo's? J.J.
 

KSnyder

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Birddog,
I'd start with something else, why torment an old classic field gun? Like Mike said you could trade it in or just buy a used plain sided 870 Express or the like. not worth the effort imho.
 

Birddog97

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Thanks ya'll. I don't know anyone with a laser welder. I could use a tig, but I think trying to keep the metal from warping would be difficult and take too much time. After sleeping on the design, I think JJ and Brian have the suggestions that best fit my concept. The current stampings don't really fit with my style of scrollwork. I think I am going to continue to play with this desing and see if I can come up with a way to re-cut with a 120 and incorporate the exiting pattern into an expanded design that adds some "foo foo's" to dress it up. If this project comes out good, I will have add "foo foo's" as a line item on my price list.
 

DKanger

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I'll start another thread with a "Foo-foo" definition.
Brian,
I think the term you are looking for is foofaraw. You might be surprised at some of the definitions you find for foo foo, especially in an urban slang context.
 

Jim P

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I just a citori and in didn't look to bad when I got done. The browning isn't stamped but looks like it was probably done with a laser of some kind. Every line was exactly the same depth and were round bottomed and there was a small amount of color distortion from the heat. It was a feather weight and was the alloy reciver that cut like something a little tuffer than aluminum but when done it looked like it had been done by hand and not a machine
 

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