question to sam re; greg Pauline tutorials + general bright-cut

[James]

Hi and best wishes to all. In my unending search for help in my study of western B/C, I was trying to track down Greg Pauline's tutorials on flower cutting and scroll development and found the images to the text unavailable in the archives. Any advise on how to get those tutorials? I plan to get into Diane Scalese's workshop next year at grs next year , and get some more help from Brian Marshall if he can put up with me for some more private instruction..but I am discovering the reality is that real engraving details and secrets of b/c are few and far between, the best odviously being Dianes fega video and Mr. Watts video. Anyone have any tips on how to access close-up photos or castings of good b/c styles ( I have the one casting from Diane from fega), little known resources or tutorials, please point me in the right direction. Thanks to Sam and you all in advance, from Marin County, California

 

[monk]

i don't have the text, but do have all the fotos. if you look very carefully at the fotos, they're all but self explanatory. but then again that's in my mind, not someone elses. if you want, i can send them your way. jayismonk450@gmail.com i have no clue as to why they're not in the archive. when i was the "duty archivist", i sent everything to the archive as well as preserving the fotos here at my place. i sent a note to those doing this work that i would resume at least part of that work--- so here i sit------------. i got no response back from anybody, so am currently not doing this.

 

[Haraga.com]

Why are you going to run to grs when Brian Marshall lives close to you. Greg doesn't live far away and he likes money also. You have two guys with huge knowledge right in your back door.

 

[GTJC460]

@ monk. Could you repost them here for everyone? I know I'd like to see the photos too

 

[Darren]

If you click on the link in my sig line there is a good close up of western bright cut engraving.

 

[Willem Parel]

That is some awesome bright cutting Darren, I will study this.
My first question is the wriggle, is that done with an ordinairy ( not so wide ) flat.
This pattern looks much more different then when I wriggle with a flat, or is it the forward speed you push the graver.
Thank you for showing !!!

 

[mitch]

not only does that bright-cutting look great, Darren, it looks like it's a heckuva lot more fun to do than most of what i do. i think i'm doing somethin' wrong...

 

[Brian Marshall]

Try dropping your hand a bit and "spreading" your wriggle a bit. Slowly, at first. There is a sweet spot and everyone has to find it...

Usually by skidding and stabbing themselves

Most people start wriggling with the graver too upright and that gives you the tighter spacing. The rocking motion needs to be absolutely uniform from side to side.

That will come as you acquire muscle memory.

I normally use a slightly bent #36 or #38 flat - depending on the average size of the scrolls on the piece. Much wider and it tends to look crude INMHO.


Brian

 

[silverchip]

I prefer using an 8\3 bent liner for a scroll wriggle line but many use a flat tool!!!!!

 

[Haraga.com]

Silverchip is right on that. Or do as Greg does. He bright cut looks great without the wriggled backbone.

 

[Willem Parel]

Thank you all, I will try it and practice and see if it becomes better.
I think Brian is right, I do many times the wriggle with the graver in upright position.
I will get me some bandaid and try it the way you discribed Brian.

Haraga, I don't know the work of Greg, have I overlooked someone ??? I would like to see it.
Willem

 

[Haraga.com]

Willem you overlooked the title of this thread. That is the Greg we are talking about. Where is Greg hiding? He can just put up some more pictures.

 

[Haraga.com]

James I re-read your opening post again and you touched on few and far between secrets. Let me give you some. First throw away any and all power assist machines on soft flat metals that you are engraving. Use short strokes until you gain experience. Get a good polish on your gravers. The short heel may not be your friend. Strop often. Weld an extra set of jaws on top of your block to help your hand from getting stabbed. Flat gravers are not good for flat cutting. Use lots of lift. There you go. Have fun and throw away all cheap pistols

 

[Willem Parel]

Sorry Haraga, very stupid of me and it show's we need the pictures

 

[Brian Marshall]

The jaws Leonard is talking about extend out further than "normal" jaws. So when you grip the vise your hand is down below the danger zone.

You may also need to keep some "medication" handy in the form of alcohol. Vodka comes to mind... Pour it over the wound and put a little in your mouth. Seems to help numb the pain.


Brian

 

[Haraga.com]

Thanks for the vice explanation Brian. Jaw extensions will save alot of injuries. Also rye whiskey works well.

 

[Peter_M]

Will moonshine work

Thanks for all the good posts.

Leonard,
Funny you mentioned throwing away the power gadgets, just had the urge the other day to see if I could get some nice bright cuts hand pushing.
Must say I surprised myself and I did get some pasabal cuts, found shorter cuts are easier then those nice long ones.

Peter

 

[monk]

later this pm, i'll send these tutorials to the archive. i'm no longer doing the uploads. i would like to resume some of this, but would need to hear from those currently uploading. hint, hint, & more hints !!

 

[Darren]

the terms "push graver" or "hand pushing" are really miss leading. only do that if you want to stick yourself all the time. The secret to good push engraving is to not push the graver ;-)

 

[didyoung]

here is a picture of how i set up my vise.
you want the jaws of the vise to be as close together as possible.
the reason being is that you will be able to get a good grip on the vise and be able to apply more power while turning it.

when bright cutting(hand pushing) you have to turn the metal(silver) into your graver.
a good thing to remember is that you are creating a lathe.(if you are right handed) your left hand and the block are the power source.

if you are right handed you will NOT be pushing the graver where you want it to go...maybe a better way to think about it is....you are just guiding the width of the cuts that you are making.
the turning and speed of the block is where the magic comes from.
just turn the work into your graver.
practice with a light touch....the big cuts will come with lots of practice.