Progress on Sarah's 28

kcrutche

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Now to start practicing Bulino.

Sorry about the Picture quality, I wish somebody would tell me what I am doing wrong.

I am using a Canon EOS 20D with a tripod.

If I shoot straight on all I get are reflections.


Left Side



Right Side

Ken
 
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SamW

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Shooting straight on will always give reflections and poor lighting, at least from up close. The upper photo looks like if you lifted the rear of the action slightly it would have the same lighting as the rest of the frame...been there many times! The shadow in the scene area is likely you and camera, gotten rid of by lifting the bottom of the frame slightly. A bit of contrast would also help. On the lower photo it is the front of the frame that needs to be lifted a bit. You just have to move the item around until the engraving pops out at you either through the camera or if by eye, then the position of your eye when it looks right is where the camera needs to be.

When I say lifted, I mean towards the camera.
 
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monk

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i'm the lousiest photographer around. i think there are some articles in the tips section about making a light tent that can help out. the problem is diffuse lighting is what is needed. a makeshift light tent will get you there.
 

kcrutche

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Lousy Pictures

Sam

I have tried shooting from every angle I can imagine with same results each time.

I intended to use Brownells OXPHO-BLUE as a Bluing agent when I was complete.

I am thinking about trying that now to possibly cut down on the shinny glare to get a better picture.


Monk

I have tried a light tent to no avail.

You say you are the lousiest photographer around, I think I have you beat on that regard.

I saw/read Phil Coggan explain his process in a earlier thread but can not find it now when I really could use It.

I really hate to bother Phil but I might have to ask him a direct question.

Thanks all for the suggestions Ken
 
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KCSteve

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Turn off the flash. Just use the available light, which you can use the light tent ideas to get just right.
 

Phil Coggan

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Sam

I have tried shooting from every angle I can imagine with same results each time.

I intended to use Brownells OXPHO-BLUE as a Bluing agent when I was complete.

I am thinking about trying that now to possibly cut down on the shinny glare to get a better picture.


Monk

I have tried a light tent to no avail.

You say you are the lousiest photographer around, I think I have you beat on that regard.

I saw/read Phil Coggan explain his process in a earlier thread but can not find it now when I really could use It.

I really hate to bother Phil but I might have to ask him a direct question.

Thanks all for the suggestions Ken
Ken,
First, make sure you have'nt over polished your work, 600 is ok. and make sure you have set your camera right and NO flash.
View your work by eye first, when it looks good position the camera in that place.
Here's the link.

Phil

http://www.igraver.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5551&highlight=overcast&page=2
 
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Roger Bleile

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Ken,

Without a studio, my best photos are taken outdoors on a cloudy overcast day which gives you naturally diffused light, If I'm pushed for time and can't wait for the ideal overcast I take the picture in a shadowed area then adjust the brightness in photoshop.

As an example, the first picture below shows one of my watches taken indoors while trying to manipulate the lighting. The next picture showa the reverse side of the same watch taken outdoors in a shaded area.

I hope this helps because I really want to see a good picture of your Remington prior to any blueing. BTW, if you blue it it will only be harder to photograph the engraving.

Roger
 

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kcrutche

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Pictures of Sarahs 28

Sorry took so long to reply, I just got home from the bay area, had to have my Pacemaker adjusted.

I did turn off the flash, I think what I am getting are my own and Camera reflections as well as light.

I am going to try the light tent Idea again.

Thanks Steve

Phil

Am I glad to hear from you, I searched every one of your threads looking for the post where you are telling about your process with pictures.

I live in central California, (nothing but bright sunshine in the forecast for quite a while) I will have to wait a while to try a cloudy day.

I thank you very much.

Roger

I will hold on the bluing, that was just another idea to try.

Your watch pictures are a perfect example of what I have been fighting.

I did not know about taking pictures on cloudy days or shaded areas, I will try it.

Gentlemen I thank you all very much for your suggestions.

I would like nothing more than posting a clear and sharp Picture of this 28, even with all its warts and my mistakes.

Remember this is my first attempt at engraving other than practice.

Ken
 

Roger Bleile

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Ken,

I photoshopped the pics and made the engraving a little darker. I sure wish the first gun I engraved looked nearly as good as yours. Your script lettering is also very professional.

Roger
 

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kcrutche

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Roger

Thanks for the kind words.

You have already made a 100 % improvement in the pictures.

I tried cleaning them up with Photoshop but I am not that good at it

One of the reasons the left side shows up better is, I mistakenly picked up different graver and cut the right side considerably lighter.

I did not realize this until had completely finished the right side and took it out of the vice (another lesson learned).

Under the scope I thought I was taking out the same chip, but the Graver had a smaller V angle.

Now I know this and you would spot this right away, but I don't think Sarah will.

Now don't think I am doing a shoddy job just because this is for my granddaughter, I am doing the very best I can.

I try to learn from my mistakes and hope to correct them on my next project.

How I wish Sam had done his “Hand engraving script lettering video” about a week earlier (I could have used It).

I cut the fine lines first then when I tried to add the Bright Cut, I sort of messed it up.

Many people would try to hide there mistakes, but each time I make a mistake I learn something.

I feel better passing that information on, so maybe the next beginner (as I am) will not make the same mistake.

If I can get better pictures I will certainly post them.

Thanks Again Ken
 
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Hi,

I made a light tent and I use it a lot http://www.builderofstuff.com/light_tent.html . You can see some pictures that I took inside the light tent for an example of the kinds of pictures I've been able to get out of it http://www.builderofstuff.com/harpgallery.html

I've found that to get good pictures out of it I had to turn off the flash, set the cameras white balance to the light in the tent, and then adjusting the exposure to get the most detail. I'm by no means a photographer, I just built it to take better pictures of my custom harmonicas.

Mostly though I wanted to reply to say WOW, if I can ever do work half as nice as this I will be very happy.


Chris
www.blowyourbrassoff.com
 

monk

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I READ SOMEWHERE on the forum, somebody took plasticene or maybe a bit of beeswax on their finger, and dabbed it over the shiney surface to help cut glare. that may help a little. i think somebody did that with hobo nickels.
 

KCSteve

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Cheap hairspray is often used as 'dulling spray' in commercial photography.

If you don't have a cloudy day then use what's called "open shade". Basically go around the house to the side opposite the Sun and set up there.
 

kcrutche

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Chris

Thanks for the light tent suggestion, I am going to try it today.

I checked out your web page, all I can say is WOW, a man of my own heart.

Making your own tools and projects is right up my alley.

I will spend some time on your web page.

Monk

I am open to any suggestion, I will try anything.

Steve

I use a water based Cheap Hair Spray to seal my transfers before cutting so I just happen to have some on hand.

I was wanting something to protect the bare surface of the 28 anyway, (first thing I am going to try).

Guys I really appreciate the suggestions, Thank You All very much.

Ken
 
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