Old pulls

Phil Coggan

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I've just found these old pulls on cellotape, 1986:eek:

Phil

23mm from left wing tip to beak.
 
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Mike Cirelli

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I really like looking at old smoke prints. I still use smokes quit often. For the kind of work I do they come handy to quickly reproduce simple engravings. Can you post these as closeups Phil.
 

mitch

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uh oh. now the WorldWideWeb has a copy of your fingerprint. expect a visit from Interpol sometime in the near future about your involvement in an international crime spree...:eek:
 

JJ Roberts

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ink pulls

Phil,Ever think of putting together a book of your engraving pulls?Would make a good study guide for students.:thumbsup:J.J.
 

rod

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Phil,

I am truly astounded at the resolution quality of your pulls. I suppose if the quality is already cut into steel, it is just a case of doing the pull perfectly. Do you have any tips for the perfect pull technique? Candle smoke, oil lamp smoke, or? I usually press the Sellotape straight down onto white paper and then do a computer scan which sort of ignores the shiny surface of the tape?

By the way, what better evidence of authenticity, than the engraver's fingerprint (assuming that it is your print).

Thanks for the post!

Rod
 

Phil Coggan

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I haven't made prints for a long time and the ones I have are not enough for a book, I think I've posted most of them here some time ago.

As how to produce good ones, well they are best done with watercolor paper or good quality card.
Cello tape prints can be good but not for deep work as can be seen from the scroll on the one above.
To produce a good paper print, rub in some printers ink or artists oil colour paint, it should not be diluted but thickish. Rub off the surface ink carefully with tissue or newspaper leaving ink in the cuts.
Wet the paper, I just lick it, it needs to be damp and lot wet, the moisture is what pulls the ink out of the cuts.
Place the paper over the work and another piece over that, then burnish with something smooth like a spoon handle etc. If you have a press then use that but it needs high pressure.
Success is not guaranteed and it might take a few goes to get it right.

For Cellotape prints, after rubbing the surface ink off, stick the tape to the work and lightly burnish with something like the end of an artists paint brush, then stick the tape to white paper.

Phil
 

mtgraver

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Phil, those are great studies and gives a bit of nostalgia to ones work. I usually use smoke from a home made oil lamp. Soot the work piece well, apply tape evenly and lightly burnish with my finger from one end to the other, lift off and I will now put it on clear acetate sheets like the kind found in old photo albums. I like the clear sheet so I can scan in positive or reverse if needed. Paper is good for presentation and viewing.
Always a pleasure to view your work.
Mark
 

Donny

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Phil,

Those pulls are pretty cool! Do you have any casts of your work that you sell?

Donny
 

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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Yes Phil, I tried only once to make a smoke pull, I should do more as it doesn't take that much time and glue them in a book.
Could be great when I'm retired to look at them, but probably by then I, I don't know the difference between a elephant and a duck.
So best thing in my opinion, is not getting retired but keep going.

arnaud
 

Phil Coggan

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Arnaud, whatever you do, don't retire:) But if you do and you need to know the difference between an elephant and a duck, I'm sure there are guys here that will tell you:biggrin:

Phil
 

Red Green

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I think he’s referring to me Arnaud,

And yes I will indeed alert you to the fact, and while I’m at it i'll offer a gourmet recipe for elephant eggs. :)

Bob
 

Andrew Biggs

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Hi Phil

Looking good. There is something very appealing about smoke/ink pulls that is unique to engraving. Digital photos have overtaken them which is a bit sad because I really like the pulls. :)

Cheers
Andrew
 

Phil Coggan

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Hi Andrew, it' appealing because it's real and related to the actual work, not like a photograph, and much like an autograph I suppose.

Phil
 

mitch

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while smoke pulls and charcoal or ink impressions/rubbings have fallen from favor for the general recording of engraved images, they are still extremely useful for certain purposes. unlike a photograph, they automatically provide an exact size reproduction for restoration or copying. i've taught the gunmakers i work with to take good smoke prints of anything they'll be needing recut BEFORE they start filing away pits, etc. by putting these on clear acetate/mylar, it leaves me the option of then making reversed transfers on a copier. on some jobs, i've been able to precisely recreate entire side panels of rusted old single-shots, complete lines of lettering, etc.
 

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