Millgrain techniques?

[Doc Mark]

To all you jewelers on the forum. I've been seeing more Millgrain work on engraved rings etc. and would like to know how to begin. I've looked at the Rio Grande Catalog and see a hand set for $55.00. Has anyone used these tools? Can they be put in a Quick Change Collet and can a Gravermax/mach be used? Must you repeatedly go over the same spot to give the beading depth, and if so, does the tool "guide" itself onto the proper spot? Do you engrave two parallel lines the appropriate distance apart and run the Millgrain tool over the "ridge" between them?

I know, I know, a lot of questions but "Inquiring Minds Want to Know."


Thanks,

Mark

 

[Ron Smith]

Mark, the miligrain tool needs a sharp edge or corner to follow. The pneumatic tools might be of some use due to the pressure you can apply to the tool with the power, but you still have to run the tool back and forth. Usually the miligrain tool needs the edge of a ring to ride, and it is usually the result of bright cutting for diamond setting, not that you could not prepare any area by doing as you said, such as cutting two parallel lines side by side, but the angle needs to be particularly sharp and the tool compresses the metal as you run it along the ridge..................Hope this helps............Ron S

 

[Mike Cirelli]

The gravermax makes using a millgrain tool effortless. Usually a beautiful edge can be applied in a single swipe. The only downfall is it seems to shorten the life of the tool somewhat. As Ron says when doing it by hand you would roll it back and forth, but with the gravermax I find it better not to do that and do it in one swipe.

 

[mbroder]

Wow! Thanks for the tip Mike. I never really thought of using my Gravermax with a millgrain tool. I just tried it and it really works. Effortless as you said. More control than going back and forth and less likely to slip off the edge.

 

[D.DOUGLAS]

I have done a couple heavy duty milgrain edges by going in and cutting small segments on the edges. after that take a beading tool to the small square segments. It is not near as quick but i could never get the depth i wanted with the ones i have. This was on heavy gents bands not delicate fillagree settings.

 

[Doc Mark]

Thanks guys!

Another question came up. Can these tools be used on the steels we usually work with? Or, are they only good with gold and silver?

Mark

 

[Mike Cirelli]

If you use them on steel it would have to be very soft steel or the rivet that holds the wheel on will break.

 

[Sam]

There are untold numbers of Gravermaxes and Gravermachs used exclusively for millgraining in production shops. The reason is because, as Mike said, the millgrain can be produced with a single pass. Without the benefit of handpiece power, multiple passes are required. When doing multiple passes you run the risk of splitting beads in half if you're not careful...especially if you remove the tool to examine your work and then resume millgraining. I shorten my millgrain tools and then mount in QC holders. As they are, they're much longer than needed for handpiece use, especially under a microscope.

As Ron said, you should have a properly prepared edge or tracks for the tool to work its best. The sharp edge of your workpiece is a common place for millgraining. Cut a border near the edge to create a track for the edge of the millgrain wheel to run in. You can also millgrain between cut lines if you space them correctly. A bit of trial and error practicing is in order.

I've had limited success with millgraining steel. You will definitely shorten the life of your tools when doing so.

As D.Douglas said, beading tool can produce a super millgrain edge. I've done this in areas where it's impossible to maneuver a millgrain tool, but it's very slow. The results can be fantastic, though.

* Touch your millgrain tool to your graver lube for more efficient millgraining.*

 

[Edward Soye]

I know this is an old post but I am not achieving the results I want with the millgrain tool and am not so good at small curves and circles. I have tried to cut the beads and use the beading tool and it turns out okay it is a bit rough and does not look the same as the millgrain tool so I think there has to be a better way

I find the millgrain tool wear out really fast in the gravermach and I don't want to buy a new one for every ring. Our local supplier have French wheels made in Germany I think the tines that hold the wheel are very soft.

Is there any better wheels in the market

Do you have any guidance for getting the millgrain to look perfect around small curves and circles?

I usually use a #8 or9 wheel

Thank you

 

[monk]

never tried my set using power. the slight negative curve on the wheels always gave me fits. i only did rather sharp edges on very soft pendants. i'd like to see the wheels just a hair wider. my set was made in france. there may be other sets that would be better. i used mine for tokens and pendants. doc, i've had the set for so long. i think mine came from gesswein.

 

[Brian Marshall]

Depending on how much you value your time... this is for those with far more time than money.

You can replace the pin with piece of a sewing needle of the appropriate size...

They ARE hard and seem to last 10+ times longer than the stock pins. You cannot peen them however.

I used to soft solder a thin plate to block one side, put the wheel in place and drop a slightly short section of a needle in the hole. Push over a bead or two to hold it in place.


Brian

 

[Haraga.com]

That will work.

 

[Brian Marshall]

Leonard,

Will you please send me 30 grand? I really need a laser welder.... If you'd send a cashiers check overnight I'd sure appreciate it!

Thanks,


B.

 

[Haraga.com]

It's in the mail Brian.

 

[Ed Westerly]

How about one for me too, Haraga???

 

[oiseau metal arts]

Depending on how much you value your time... this is for those with far more time than money.

You can replace the pin with piece of a sewing needle of the appropriate size...

They ARE hard and seem to last 10+ times longer than the stock pins. You cannot peen them however.

I used to soft solder a thin plate to block one side, put the wheel in place and drop a slightly short section of a needle in the hole. Push over a bead or two to hold it in place.

Brian

ive taken this option a few times myself. replacing the axle with sewing needles. those have far outlasted the original parts.
I didn't solder, but hammered the sides a bit to tighten up the hole and wedge the needle in nice and snug.

Iv also shaved the sides down on a few of them to better get into those hard to reach narrow places.

 

[Haraga.com]

How about one for me too, Haraga???

Sorry Ed but my wife said no. Maybe next time.

 

[Edward Soye]

Thank you and the majority of mine say France on them as well, I have shattered a wheel playing with the power graver when I first was setting it up I find it difficult to get the wheel to turn in a small curve and look good. I will give the sewing needle a try and maybe laserweld the pin in place. Thanks Leonard