Micro Flat Graver

Andrew Biggs

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While I was demonstrating at the BaselWorld show I discovered something that may be of use to fellow engravers. I’m not pretending to have invented it, just discovered it for myself. Some of you may be using it already.

That is a micro flat for cutting very small block (sans serif) lettering. Now when I say small, I mean 1mm and less. It can also be used for larger if desired.

The problem with small regular flats is that they tear the edges out of small lettering. You can shape your gravers by cutting out the back of the heel, etc etc. But the problem with that is that it is a lot of mucking around with hit and miss results. Having a steep heel also worked occasionally.

I had to cut some lettering and the cap height was 1mm so the lower case was a lot less than that.

Anyway, to get to the point of all this………….The micro flat is shaped up with a GRS 120 EasyGraver parallel heel fixture on a 1.8mm round C-Max carbide graver. Shape the graver as normal. Then stick it in a dual angle fixture set at 15 degrees and put a small flat on the bottom. Make the flat slightly smaller than the required width needed for the cut because you also have the angled edges that will be cutting. You can also cut quite deep with this configuration.

This makes for a very strong cutting face and since coming home I’ve used this on stainless steel watches and it works perfectly for sans serif block letters. Best of all, no drag ripping out the sides of the lettering.

I’m now thinking it may be very useful for inlaying thin gold wire that has tight turns. Something I’ll be trying soon.

I have tried it on a regular 120 heeled graver and it doesn’t work the same as tearing the edges is still a problem.

Give it a try and see what you think. For me it is now my “go to” micro flat graver.

Cheers
Andrew
 

Gemsetterchris

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Smallest flat I have & use alot is about 0.3mm, generally I use lyndsay templates for the face & heel but quite often use diamond discs to narrow the tool down to whatever width.
Very rarely do I have a clue as to measurements, I just make tools to fit the job.

If you are using the blanks I think you are, I can see how the clearance helps.
 
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tsterling

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Great hint, Andrew! Turns out I've been doing something similar, only using a Lindsay onglette as the starting shape. I was needing narrow, but very deep outlines for my shishiaibori technique (http://www.engraverscafe.com/showthread.php?16308), but I was breaking the onglette pretty regularly, dubbing wasn't really helping, so I tried cutting a really narrow flat heel on the bottom.

Not exactly lettering, but similar. I hadn't thought about using it for lettering - that's a great idea. I didn't know it wasn't something real engravers used! Since I was going to ink it anyway, a tiny flat bottom in the really deep cut didn't seem to make any difference.

Thanks,

Tom
 

dogcatcher

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Smallest flat I have & use alot is about 0.3mm, generally I use lyndsay templates for the face & heel but quite often use diamond discs to narrow the tool down to whatever width.
Very rarely do I have a clue as to measurements, I just make tools to fit the job.

If you are using the blanks I think you are, I can see how the clearance helps.

That is my system.
 

tim halloran

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Andrew: I discovered this flat bottomed v graver about a year ago. They work well for out lining scroll in the interior negative areas, as i have about nine of them in various widths , which leaves a nice flat area next to the scroll. It keeps you from running into your v cuts. They also work well for background removal and helping to level your backgrounds.I have them in 130, 120, and 105 degree angles. Will have to give lettering a try.
 

Dave London

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Ray Cover, developed a template for this type of point ,he calls it a scorper. Template can be found on the Lindsay site.. As Andrew said works great you can turn corners:thumbsup:
 

KCSteve

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Another Lindsay template that makes a similar shape is the Mr. The flat. I use John's clever graver idea and use either 1/16" carbide drill bit pieces or dead small rotary burrs soldered into square brass tubing to get the length right.
 

mrthe

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Yes Steve is right my templates are thinked to create a flat geometry point very similar but more narrow than 120 degree,and add the plus that you can shape flats with rounded corners or with radius heel in a very easy and accurate way,expecially helpfull for sculpting works
 

Andrew Biggs

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Rod......Yes, you're onto it. The width of the face can be anything you want as well. Just shape up to the appropriate size for your work.

Tim......Never thought about it for background removal. Good idea and I'll try it out.

Dave.....I always thought a scorper was a traditional shaped flat or round graver like the old yellow tangs. The English language is a funny thing :)

Jo........Give it a go. You'll love it!!! Great for very small san serif lettering.

Cheers
Andrew
 

Gemsetterchris

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Scorper to me is any flat, onglette or half round tool.
I guess the name got abit lost with the old wooden handles..

Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2
 

Sandy

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Andrew,
How about post a few pictures of your described gravers. :rolleyes: And give an old guy slow on the up take a visual aid. :thinking:
Sandy
 

Sam

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Interesting, Andrew. For micro block lettering I've taken knife gravers and grind the bottom to the width I need, but they're not nearly as strong as what you describe. I will give this a try.
 

dlilazteca

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Ray Cover Point

Is this what everyone is talking about these are actual pictures of Ray's gravers made with his templates.

4.jpg 2.jpg 1.jpg 3.jpg
 

Andrew Biggs

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Hey, Sandy Old Guy :)

Heres a drawing for you. It's not to exact scale and there are no measurements as it's all made up for whatever you need.

All it is, is a 120 Easygraver with a parallel heel..........with a small flat on the bottom. Just set the angle at 15 degrees and swipe it over a diamond lap (or ceramic) once or twice or till you have the desired width of the lettering that you want to cut.

Transfer or draw some 1mm block (sans serif) lettering onto a plate and give it a go. Try something like Eurostyle Extended or some other sans serif type font. It's pretty cool. I've been using it on watches since I got back from BaselWorld and it is the ducks nuts!!

Big hug to you and Pam :)

Sam.......Yes, It's a very strong point and with 316L stainless the C-Max works really well.

Carlos......not sure as I'm unfamiliar with Ray's templates. Hey, give it a go. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Cheers
Andrew
 

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Sandy

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Andrew,
Thanks for the digram. Cleared it all up. You know how us "OLD" guys are. LOL ;)
Hugs to all.
Your Pal
Sandy
(Translation: Pal = mate). :rolleyes:
 

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