Latest Project

[Southern Custom]

Thought I'd post a few step by step pics of my latest project. I haven't had much time to put into engraving lately as I've had my head in jewelry bench. I did do a bit of engraving on the rear of this pendant though it's very tiny. Those are 2.5mm dias.
Keep me in your prayers this weekend guys since I'll be squeezing this rather large and expensive emerald into it's bezel this weekend. Very scary this one.
These are the main parts for the pendant. The bezel gets soldered to the larger plate and will be surrounded by pave set dias. The small engraved plate will be the lower part of the gallery on the rear. One of my early teachers used to say the back should look as good as the front.
I'll post pics of the finished product by Monday. (provided all goes well) Wish me luck!!

 

[Haraga.com]

In sure it will look good. I was wondering why the engraving was done first.

 

[Beathard]

I'm excited to see this step by step. I'm sure ill learn something.

 

[Southern Custom]

I debated waiting till the end. I'm finishing out all the parts to a fine finish before assembly with a laser welder. I will have only a tiny bit of polishing to do once I'm finished. Of course I can't say I've ever done it this way and it could come back to bite me but I hope not. Live and learn.

 

[Haraga.com]

It will be fine. Why don't you use soft solder. Others use it all the time.

 

[Willem Parel]

Wish you good luck and keep my fingers crossed

 

[Christian DeCamillis]

If it's 18K that will help. Is that Emerald African or Columbian material. It looks like African material according to the color, unless it's just the photo. One thing I always do with more risky stones before setting them is to take a diamond impregnated rubber wheel and just soften all the edges of the girdle and corners. That will greatly reduce the possibility of breaking. It all helps but as I am sure you know Emeralds are just unpredictable. I would also thin down the bezel as much as possible before hammering it down. Since it is a pendant there won't be a lot of wear after anyway.

The irony would be that after all your efforts and success setting it. The person could lean over a counter or something and the pedant hit the edge of the counter and break .
Good luck these jobs are always stressful

Chris

 

[Roger B]

It will be fine. Why don't you use soft solder. Others use it all the time.

Do you mean soft solder or easy solder. Soft solder is used on base metals as it would be lead based - not the type of stuff to use on gold.
Easy or extra easy solder has a lower melting temperature than medium or hard but its basis is the same metal on which it is to be used - either gold or silver.

Roger

 

[Arnaud Van Tilburgh]

I wish you good luck on setting the emerald. The way I did this before is before making the setting that surrounds the stone, is to nicely cut a part of the sheet that will hold the roundist first. Then filing the corners, bend and solder the bezel. If done precisely, you will only have to push without hammering.
Hard to explain in Englisch, I will see if I can find a picture of it.

arnaud

 

[Arnaud Van Tilburgh]

I make a strip of gold for this to start with, something like this for the bezel
Just using a push tool to set the stone

arnaud

arnaud

 

[monk]

GREAT LOOKING UNDERTAKING. have a beer before you start- will settle your nerves.

 

[GTJC460]

I hope you sold the stone! I wouldn't want to set that one in a bezel if it wasn't mine.

One thing I do to help is nick the corners of the bezel with a 6/0 or 8/0 saw blade. Not a major cut, just a little to help get the metal moving in the right direction without inadvertently pushing on the stone.

 

[Southern Custom]

Thanks for the words of encouragement. Chris, I thought I was one of the few people to take a diamond wheel to a big emerald. My mentor taught me that one 20 years ago. Arnaud, that is very similar to the profile I use on my bezels. I have a new trick I'm about to try with this one. I'm using a very thin piece of 22k wire on the seat to act as a slightly softer cushion and of course the bezel is made of 18k.
Today is setting day and I'll be knocking on wood. No, the stone doesn't belong to me. It's a commission job from client. Oh, and I am pretty sure it's a Columbian stone. Color is not showing well with the camera I have.
I'll start a new thread with the pics I took yesterday.
Thanks guys,
Layne Z

 

[Eric Olson]

Since you mentioned you have a laser, why not push the bezel over first, then slip the stone in from the back and laser the 22k seat in behind the emerald?

 

[Haraga.com]

Bingo! You nailed it.

 

[Southern Custom]

Now there's a thought!!!! I love the fact that no matter how long I've done this job, there's always a new trick, new technique to be learned. Thanks and I may give this one a try depending on whether I can work with what I already have. Anything to minimize the risk with an emerald you can't afford and don't own.
Layne

 

[Southern Custom]

Here's where I am for the weekend. Finished up assembly and all the diamonds are in. I've never been known as the best pave setter in the south but I can hold my own and I'm happy with this one. The real headache come's tomorrow. Say a prayer cause I'll be setting the old fashioned way. Having a scope now does help.

 

[Southern Custom]

Side view

 

[bronc]

Wow, that is beautiful!

Stewart

 

[Beathard]

Nice... Good luck!