Dupont24
Member
I've got Sam's graver sharpening video but nothing there about putting a heal on an onglette, unless I missed it. Without a heal it tracks like crazy in tight corners. Please help
How does one heal an onglette to eliminate tracks?
- Thread starter Dupont24
- Start date
Gemsetterchris
Elite Cafe Member
You don`t generally put heels on onglette gravers & they are designed for straight lines/gentle curves not going around "tight" curves.
Not to say you can`t or they won`t but i`ve never tried..
Not to say you can`t or they won`t but i`ve never tried..
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tundratrekers@mtaonline.n
Elite Cafe Member
You can heel them,
as an 90, or any other angles.Meeks book explains with words and pictures,as his choice of graver was an onglette.
Lindsay has an template, but they are generally done by hand.
Raise the handle and roll from the outside towards the centerline on bottom,do both sides and make sure the centerline is dead straight .
michael
as an 90, or any other angles.Meeks book explains with words and pictures,as his choice of graver was an onglette.
Lindsay has an template, but they are generally done by hand.
Raise the handle and roll from the outside towards the centerline on bottom,do both sides and make sure the centerline is dead straight .
michael
Gemsetterchris
Elite Cafe Member
Rather than mess about, I'd rather pick a tool designed for certain things.
Mike is right the onglette can be heeled it must be perfectly even on both sides or it drift to one side or the other when cutting straight lines with H&C.I use the onglette mainly when engraving birds and animals 40 or 45 degree face and a 35 to 40 degree heel for clearance,there tricky to sharping by hand.Look at the thread bulino line engraving on this forum of Jay from the Philippines hand engraving a Lion with an onglettte. J.J.
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Willem Parel
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
AK, for what I see in the picture you didn't heel the graver but you turned it into a flat.
I don't see facets on the side of the graver, just an other shaped point, so I think here is a bit of misunderstanding.
I don't see facets on the side of the graver, just an other shaped point, so I think here is a bit of misunderstanding.
Martin Strolz
Elite Cafe Member
Dear AK!
This thumb is my thumb. And I took the pictures. If you look closely there is a copyright note on the on pages where you took this pictures from. The Copyright protects the whole content,- my pictures as well as the written text. Better: It should do that...
It is not fun finding things published that were intented and done just for a certain small group of students/clients.
Without best Regards
Martin
This thumb is my thumb. And I took the pictures. If you look closely there is a copyright note on the on pages where you took this pictures from. The Copyright protects the whole content,- my pictures as well as the written text. Better: It should do that...
It is not fun finding things published that were intented and done just for a certain small group of students/clients.
Without best Regards
Martin
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mitch
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2007
- Messages
- 2,636
hi, Dupont24-
putting a heel on an onglette is a tricky operation if you want to maintain the elliptical cross-section shape of the graver from the cutting face back through the heel. in other words, if you don't just want flat facets which change the shape of the cutting face, too.
i do it with a fine stone (a well-worn medium grade ruby stone, but any 1000-1500 grit stone will work), NOT a powerhone, which is too aggressive for my purposes. lay the graver on its side, then as you lift the shank end up at the desired heel angle- 10-20 degrees or so, gently sweep the tip across the stone. alternate sides so they're even. done properly, the cross-section, both shape & width, of the graver should be constant from the face through the length of the heel.
the TRICKY PART is making sure you don't taper the heel toward the face (a little taper AWAY from the face is ok). you don't want the cutting face to end up smaller/narrower than the heel behind it. this will make it wedge into cuts and rag up the sides of your lines as it passes.
it's one of those many things in engraving that's easier to learn if somebody can show you, then takes a lot of practice until you can do it yourself. have fun!
putting a heel on an onglette is a tricky operation if you want to maintain the elliptical cross-section shape of the graver from the cutting face back through the heel. in other words, if you don't just want flat facets which change the shape of the cutting face, too.
i do it with a fine stone (a well-worn medium grade ruby stone, but any 1000-1500 grit stone will work), NOT a powerhone, which is too aggressive for my purposes. lay the graver on its side, then as you lift the shank end up at the desired heel angle- 10-20 degrees or so, gently sweep the tip across the stone. alternate sides so they're even. done properly, the cross-section, both shape & width, of the graver should be constant from the face through the length of the heel.
the TRICKY PART is making sure you don't taper the heel toward the face (a little taper AWAY from the face is ok). you don't want the cutting face to end up smaller/narrower than the heel behind it. this will make it wedge into cuts and rag up the sides of your lines as it passes.
it's one of those many things in engraving that's easier to learn if somebody can show you, then takes a lot of practice until you can do it yourself. have fun!
Haraga.com
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Looks like you have been busted. What do you have to say for yourself?
Dupont24
Member
Thank you all for your help! I will spend some time on the power hone today and see if I can perfect this. My biggest concern is changing the shape of the cut from onglette to a narrow "V". Although Martin's pics are infringed upon it appears that heals are rounded to match the shape of the onglette.
By power hone I mean the laps, without power assistance.
By power hone I mean the laps, without power assistance.
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Weldon47
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
I do mine exactly as Mitch describes... By hand on a ruby stone. A ceramic lap will also work.
For c-max I use a 2000 diamond lap instead of the stones as those gravers are too hard!
Weldon
For c-max I use a 2000 diamond lap instead of the stones as those gravers are too hard!
Weldon
akintagleocarving
Member
Martin
I am very sorry that you did not like the way I posted this thread. I deleted the post now and all the pictures. Yes those pictures were taken by yourself but I cannot see any copywrite on the pictures. As for the procedure "How to put a heal" I did mention that I learned it from my teacher which is in my case "YOU". I should have taken my own pictures.
I hope no hard feelings. AK.
I am very sorry that you did not like the way I posted this thread. I deleted the post now and all the pictures. Yes those pictures were taken by yourself but I cannot see any copywrite on the pictures. As for the procedure "How to put a heal" I did mention that I learned it from my teacher which is in my case "YOU". I should have taken my own pictures.
I hope no hard feelings. AK.
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