How do you organize your diamond laps?
- Thread starter mrthe
- Start date
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Look up lapidary faceting - that's where 90% of these ideas were stolen from...
They use far more laps than we do.
Brian
They use far more laps than we do.
Brian
GTJC460
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
+1 to Doc. Coarse to fine, front to back.
Mike Fennell
Elite Cafe Member
25 cents at second-hand thrift store.
I think it was for storing 45 rpm singles back in 1956, but no Elvis "Hound Dog" was included.
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Jim P
Member
In a big pile probably in the wrong boxes that they came in from GRS. I feel kinda bad about not taking better care of them but one of these days!
I figured i might as well tell the truth as much as i would like people to think I stacked them all neatly in some kind of fancy rack like you see pictures of.
Jim
I figured i might as well tell the truth as much as i would like people to think I stacked them all neatly in some kind of fancy rack like you see pictures of.
Jim
KCSteve
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
I forgot to get a rack when I first got my PowerHone so I just cut slots in the side of an appropriate sized cardboard box. Eventually I replaced that with the real rack but it worked for a few months.
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Steve,
You had a real rack when you first made it... it got the job done
Think about it why you "really" replaced it.
Certainly wasn't because it would do the job better.
Brian
You had a real rack when you first made it... it got the job done
Think about it why you "really" replaced it.
Certainly wasn't because it would do the job better.
Brian
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Paolo,
Why? You didn't understand cutting notches in a box set on it's corner?
B.
Why? You didn't understand cutting notches in a box set on it's corner?
B.
KCSteve
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
MrThe
Take a long skinny cardboard box and cut some slots out of it. Your laps will stand quite nicely in them. I replaced my cardboard one with a 'real' one because the box isn't terribly durable. Lasted a lot longer than I thought it would though, and given the cost it was well worth it.
Take a long skinny cardboard box and cut some slots out of it. Your laps will stand quite nicely in them. I replaced my cardboard one with a 'real' one because the box isn't terribly durable. Lasted a lot longer than I thought it would though, and given the cost it was well worth it.
golden forge
Elite Cafe Member
Mike, is the last lap on the left of your photo a glass lap? If so what do you charge it with, or do you use it as a backing for adhesive abrasive films?
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Yes, Dave, I have them made of PVC, polypropelene, wood and wire. Even cardboard.
They are just racks... they don't need to cost a bunch of money, don't need custom paint jobs with gold leaf and flames on 'em. (Unless someone has that hobby too?)
Go look on amazon for pot lid racks, plate racks/holders - there's dozens of ideas & materials and even chrome plate if you want it.
Brian
And all of this stuff can also be found in thrift shops, 2nd hands, flea markets, Goodwill and Salvation Army.
Heavy duty cardboard boxes are usually out in back of the store and free - if you don't get lucky.
They are just racks... they don't need to cost a bunch of money, don't need custom paint jobs with gold leaf and flames on 'em. (Unless someone has that hobby too?)
Go look on amazon for pot lid racks, plate racks/holders - there's dozens of ideas & materials and even chrome plate if you want it.
Brian
And all of this stuff can also be found in thrift shops, 2nd hands, flea markets, Goodwill and Salvation Army.
Heavy duty cardboard boxes are usually out in back of the store and free - if you don't get lucky.
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Mike Fennell
Elite Cafe Member
Golden forge, I like the name. My brother has a glass-blowing business named Crystal Forge, even though glass is not actually a crystal.
The glass lap is the top off a food-weighing scale. It will be used for charged paper, since I already have the ceramic and cast-iron laps. I still need to drill it and bond an adapter/shim to it that will put it at the same elevation as the ceramic when installed on the power-hone.
I'm a little hesitant about drilling the center-hole. I have not done that in glass yet. Maybe I should practice on a piece of window-glass first. Suggestions from those who have done this would be appreciated.
The glass lap is the top off a food-weighing scale. It will be used for charged paper, since I already have the ceramic and cast-iron laps. I still need to drill it and bond an adapter/shim to it that will put it at the same elevation as the ceramic when installed on the power-hone.
I'm a little hesitant about drilling the center-hole. I have not done that in glass yet. Maybe I should practice on a piece of window-glass first. Suggestions from those who have done this would be appreciated.
You can drill the hole with a few of steps without problems, you need diamond ball burrs in different sizes , a drill that can work at low speed and a plane surface , you have to start with the smallest diamond burr that you have , put your drill perpendicular to the glass and with not too much pressure start the hole, you can use oil to lubricate and not oveheat or better water, when you make the guide hole , don't trespass the glass for complete, stop the hole at a 80% of the widht of the glass, turn the glass to the other side and finish the hole trespassing for complete the glass, is very important work at low speed and don't make too much pressure,leave de diamond burr work, after that only you have to enlarge the hole with the others burrs follow the sizes untill you will have the desired size if the hole, ever at low speed, under water and with not too much pressure
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Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Cool Paolo! Looks like you could find that lap rack in the dark too?
B.
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Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
One more suggestion - if you are going to drill that glass...
Make a "rope" out of modeling clay and form a dam around the center.
It will help keep your lubricant (oil or water) in place - at least until the hole is punched through...
Brian
Make a "rope" out of modeling clay and form a dam around the center.
It will help keep your lubricant (oil or water) in place - at least until the hole is punched through...
Brian
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