Hobo Nickel Toning... how to?

[BKJ]

Hello Folks,

In searching for how to tone Hobo Nickels, I found some info but a lot of it was from quite a few years ago or I didn't find the right search combination.

My question is for those who have carved nickels/coins for many years and tried different toning techniques, what have you settled on and why?

I have read about PC Board etching material and Paasche Air Eraser but then you have to have a sandblast both and silica is not good for you.

Anyways, I am trying to learn from others on what works for them.

Thanks all!

Bruce

 

[mrthe]

You will see how i do it in my DVD all the way exists some others ways
ink or enameling : just use calcographic ink or flat black enameling paint
Chemical: blue gun pens by birchwood or super blue birchwood lowuid , the blue gun give a brown tone the super blue a very strong black brown but take care
For Silver coins i use the blackening liquid used to blackening in jewellery i'm not sure in english how is it called i think potassium sulfire or something like that, but you can buy it ready to use.
the natural way: with a torch or a stove heat the nickel since it turn it black after use some kind of abrasive to highlight , this final steep can be applyed to the chemical way.
Personally i use a homemade compound for this final step in a stove put a little metal bix and mix 1/3 of light oil ,1/3 of bee wax and 1/3 of a 600 grit polishing stone dust ( use a old diamond coarse lap to grind the stone and make the dust) heat two times the compound before use it to mix better all the components.
Exists others ways this is just what i use depending the host coin or the black tone desired in every project.

Just one more think, is important how do you threat the surface, textures, stippling background , high polish and sand finish for example is what determine the final effect when you blackening.

 

[BKJ]

Thanks Paolo, I look forward to watching your DVD.

 

[Brian Marshall]

AFTER the patina is applied:

"Rottenstone" and/or pumice powder/paste... also, sometimes a simple rub with dampened baking soda powder is enough.

Dunno if you can get either of the first 2 anymore? Used to be a common silversmiths finishing method - when we worked on "antique" stuff.


Some guys/gals have used toothpaste, 0000 steel wool and even Ajax with some degree of success to get the "look" they're after.

Again, AFTER the patina is applied.

 

[DakotaDocMartin]

"Rottenstone"

Behlen T23433 Rottenstone, 1 lb.

 

[monk]

i doubt anyone uses silica to do hobos. it would probably cut too much. i'd think baking soda would be a better media for hobos.

 

[Brian Marshall]

Thanks Doc,

I can tell you that a pound of it goes a long long way...

I've not made much of dent in mine and I cannot remember when I bought it.


B.

 

[KCSteve]

I have Paolo's DVD and the tip about using a bit of heat during toning is one of the many great ones I picked up.

 

[diandwill]

A pink rubber eraser, like we used in school, 1"x2", is a very light abrasive. It doesn't polish to a shine but will remove blackening and minor scratches with very little work.

 

[mrthe]

With the abrasive compound that i have described before i use for highlightd a brass brush wire like this ( well i use it all the time during carving):

and eraser pencil like this, i really like the two color/ hardness version to use it after heating the nickel and highlight , in some zone with the eraser pencil i have more control in what i want highlight , respect other tools.
The eraser pencil is a great tool in the engraver eorkshop i think is very helpfull if you draw by hand in the metal with a scribe to erase mistakes

 

[BKJ]

Thanks everyone for the info.

Paolo, I think that I'll pick up a two color eraser and a standard pink eraser after work.

 

[Dave London]

Woodcraft has both Brian

 

[Brian Marshall]

Never thought about the stuff being used for wood?

There was a silversmith in San Francisco many years ago that taught me to use it in the refinishing process for antique silver heirlooms.

They had to look like they had never been worked on... and this stuff did a good job - after the patina was reapplied.

Highlights in just the right places...


Brian

 

[Dave London]

Yep used for polishing wood,