help with titanium

monk

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i have to cut a pendant out of titanium, alloy unknown. to the pendant, i have to solder small shapes of copper, brass, and sterling. what solder to use that might work with this
project ? :confused:
 

KCSteve

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Monk

As far as I know, no solder will work on Ti. Your choices are to find someone with a laser welder, someone who's very good with TIG (I think) or do like I do and rivet it.
 

Ron Spokovich

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I was doing some reading on the Cafe site a few weeks ago, that caused me to go into a couple links about working with titanium, and they all said that titanium cannot be successfully soldered. Either laser weld, or TIG weld, seem to be the only two successful methods to employ. Too bad someone hasn't come with a successful soldering product. . .no doubt it would successfully sell.
 

Brian Marshall

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Monk,


Given your case - if I had NO access to a PUK, Tig or a laser welder - I would research "cold connections".

There are several good books out on the subject containing what you need... (plus a video or two)

And several metalsmithing teachers giving workshops on it as well.


Brian


The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person who is doing it. – Chinese Proverb
 
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tsterling

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Hi Monk,

Yes, cold connections are your only practical solution without a laser welder. I rivet things to my titanium pendants all the time.

Here's an easy way to make tiny silver or copper rivets (about halfway down the page) using a tiny homemade blacksmith's nail header: http://sterlingsculptures.com/wp/?p=2609

You start by melting a blob on the end of an appropriate gauge of silver or copper wire.

Tom
 

monk

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thanks to all for your replies. cold work it will be. riviting will be my choice. when i had a working forge, i made several nails and bolts. i must say at a much larger scale. thanks tom, your little rivit technique is the one i'll use. i'll have to order some silver wire, as what i have is way too thin.
now if the ti will allow me to saw it, life will be good. thanks again to all.
 

KCSteve

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I've been doing my riveting with plain wire - no preformed head. I just cut it about 2mm longer than the stack and start carefully tapping it down at one end. Give it a bit on one end, flip over carefully and tap on that end a bit. After the ends get fat enough it's easier to flip it back and forth.

But I like Tom's little bit for putting a decent head on one end. Might have to give that a try.

Oh, and a handpiece with the same brass rod you use for inlay makes a great little riveting hammer. ;)
 

monk

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kc: using a straight wire like that might be cool too. when peining the rivits, what kind of backup block do you use ? hardwood maybe ?
 

KCSteve

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Monk I either use a small steel block or just my vise. For some of the bracelets I've done the Ti I used was too heavy to bend with the bracelet so I had to pound it to shape with a dapping block and then rivet it on. Being able to use the handpiece to set the rivets inside the bracelet really helped.

Take a couple of scraps of metal and some wire and give it a try. I need to try Tom's idea. I've got some light steel I can use to make the plate for melting the flared heads.
 

monk

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kc: tyvm all over again for the hammering idea. i'm thinkin a brass rod fashioned like a beading punch may serve very well for this. i'm actually sorry i started this project-- the ti is a double bugger to cut with a jewelers saw. sorta glad i bought the "knew concept" saw.it;s far more user friendly than the one i've had for years. blade changing and tensioning to me, makes the saw worth the price.
 

KCSteve

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Yeah, I burned through a bunch of blades on that too thick Ti piece. Wait until you start engraving it. You know how most metal engraves almost like it's butter straight out of the refrigerator? That Ti could be like what I did that felt like it was out of the freezer. <I>Stiff!</I>
 

monk

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well, i may not find out about engraving it. will surely keep the scrap to test for that.
 
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