Hand engraving script lettering video

[Sam]

[youtube]3s9hOGwUF-s[/youtube]

I recorded this video a couple of days ago for GRS. Those interested in brightcut script lettering might enjoy it.

Cheers / ~Sam

 

[Cloudy]

Sweet! Any way to save this for viewing at other times? Will you make a section for videos at the Cafe?

 

[RoycroftRon]

Sam do you use a Monarch for all of your lettering, or just on the soft metal?

 

[CRW]

Sweet! Any way to save this for viewing at other times? Will you make a section for videos at the Cafe?

If you are a UTUBE member you can right click on the video and click view on utube then put it in your favorites. If you are not a member you can register for free.

Thanks Sam, This is great. It is something I have wanted to watch for a long time.

 

[Tira]

Great video Sam. A video is worth more that a thousand words!

 

[Steve223]

Neat video Sam! Im awful at lettering and after watching this i see some of my problems

 

[Baygraver]

Sam,
This was great. I especially appreciate the elaborate flourish at the end, suggesting that mastering lettering ties in with so many other decorative touches. Regards, Jim

 

[airamp]

Sam,

Thanks for the great video. It is very interesting seeing how you used a flat graver. I have to give it a try again.

I have mainly used 90 or 120's, Tried a flat but really messed up the cut I guess I need more practice....

AirAmp

 

[Sam]

Thanks folks.

Cloudy: If you're on a Mac there's a free app called Tooble which allows you to save YouTube videos. I suppose we could have a video section if enough members made them. Because of the enormous bandwidth they consume, letting YouTube host them makes it much easier for me.

Ron: I would say I use the Monarch and 901 about 50/50, with the 901 for harder materials and/or larger lettering tasks.

AirAmp: 90's and 120's also work well for this. Whatever gets the best results is what you should use. For me, a properly sharpened flat graver just wants to cut lettering. My flat graver sharpening instructions are over on iGraver.com

~Sam

 

[Phil Coggan]

Sam,
That's an excellent tuition piece there, instant information and explanation, well done!!!

Phil

 

[Arnaud Van Tilburgh]

Very clearly tutorial, I didn't even know using an flat engraver as I only use a 115° for that kind of lettering. I will give it a try as it seems so easy the way you demonstrate it. :big grin:

Thanks for sharing

arnaud

 

[BrianPowley]

Nice...........very nice.
Thank you, Sam

 

[Andrew Biggs]

Great video thanks Sam as a picture certainly is worth a thousand words!!

The flat you are using. I notice that it's a square but not in the normal diamond shape but square on top. Are you putting it in the handpiece on an angle......... or rotating your wrist???

Cheers
Andrew

 

[Sam]

Andrew: It's mounted in the handpiece with the flat on top so I'm rotating my wrist to cut on the corner of the tool. Sometimes I'll use a conventional flat graver for script, but carbide, especially C-Max, takes and retains such a brilliant mirror polish that it's normally my preference, especially for precious metals. Brass practice plates won't cut as brightly as gold or silver so it's not so critical, but carbide is GREAT stuff for this sort of work.

I should add that I tried Chris DeCamillis' idea of using a cast iron lap sprayed with diamond spray to polish gravers and it works great! It could very well be the best polishing method yet. Not only does it polish, but it actually sharpens as well. The first time I tried it I was surprised how fast it sharpened the heels on a 120° graver. I only wanted them polished, but it ground them back and polished them, too.

 

[John B.]

Thanks for the great video and tutorial, Sam.
Your lettering is superb and you make it look so easy.
Do you use a metal point in your drafting pencil?
Best.

 

[Two Ponies]

VERY NICE SAM----I can hardly wait to get to your GRS class in Oct.

 

[Sam]

Hi John. No, it's a 9H pencil that I sharpen to a needle point. Sometimes I do layout text with a carbide scriber, but it's very unforgiving if you don't nail it the first time.

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks!

 

[fegarex]

Very cool video Sam! Thanks.
Lettering has always been something that kicks me.
I do have a question for you. I noticed you did the thin lines after the flair cuts. Do you ever do the thin cuts first and then cut "over" the intersections? I know you don't want those thin lines to cut over the flair cuts but wondered if one way was easier of faster or what.
Thanks,
Rex

 

[Tim Wells]

Very nicely done Sam. I'm glad you also showed how to draw it on rather than just cutting a transfer. It pays to know how to lay that stuff out and one should practice laying out and cutting letters; it'll really discipline you.

I especially like the way you added those final serif type cuts with the flat. Very informative; thanks for taking the time to film it.

 

[Sam]

Tim: Glad you like it, and you're right, it definitely pays to be able to draw engravers script. You can't always depend on a transfer and besides, it's very satisfying. Those little serif type cuts are used to square-up the bar cuts because when the graver enters the metal to cut a bar (any graver, 120, 90, or flat), it can't enter flush with the guideline. That little cut dresses up the bar cut's end so it's nice and flat.

Rex: Someone told me of an engraver who cut the hairlines first, but I've never seen or tried it. I think I'm more prone to stray from my layout when cutting the wide cuts, so if I have hairlines already engraved, it might not work. That's just a semi-educated hunch. I suppose I should give it a try and see what happens and/or if it's faster. / ~Sam