Question: Graver Sharpening

[windyflatsranch]

For Christmas my wife gave me an engraver. She didn't know what to get me for gravers so she got me a couple v-point blanks.

I've been shopping for sharpening systems and have talked to a couple people who really like GRS hones. I have not talked to anyone who has used the Lindsay templates to sharpen gravers. Since I'm just starting out I'm interested in the Lindsay because of the price.

 

[JJ Roberts]

windy.The Lindsay sharping templates are designed for power assist because of the parallel heel,if your going to engrave with H&C and hand push graver need a shorter heel. J.J.

 

[Steve L S]

Windy, The Crocker sharpening jig is another alternative. It is not usually recommended on forums like this for those starting out because it requires real skill to use it properly and sharpening is the vital first step in engraving. I was shown how to use it properly by an intaglio printmaker- that's what you need, someone to show you, and someone to sharpen a graver for you to the highest possible standard. Engraving is one of those things that can send you down rabbit holes to discover fire, invent the wheel and the steam engine all by yourself.
best wishes and don't give up
Steve

 

[monk]

all the systems are to be preferred compared to just freehand sharpening. the grs way allows the use of any geometry you could possibly want. the lindsay way, although very easy to do, requires a separate template for each geometry one wants to use.is one better than the other ? no. they are just different ways to achieve a result.

 

[dogcatcher]

I learned more about sharpening by studying the various sharpening jig/tools. Research "graver sharpening jigs", and then read the discussions on the "hows and whys" each was made and used. You will learn about the angles, why some angles work better than others, why you need repeatability from one sharpening to the next. Along with a lot of other "stuff".

The more informed you are the less money you will waste. Drawing is the key, but being able to sharpen is the "graphite" that makes the tumblers smoothly unlock the lock. You can draw like Michelangelo, but if you cannot sharpen the gravers you cannot cut the design.

 

[monk]

the dogcatcher is spot on ! repeatability of the graver geometry is critical. each geometry has a different feel to it, different wrist holding, etc. learning is far easier if the variables are reduced to the lowest possible level.

 

[speeedy6]

I agree with dogcatcher too! Sam has a free tutorial showing how to sharpen without a jig or fixture. That should get you started. I have a hone and only use it for roughing out the initial shape of the graver. You can use the Lindsay system for roughing it just takes a little longer time. I use the Lindsay system for final sharpening. Watch out for getting too many templates. I use only about 3 different geometries of different widths. I'm not ready for too many cutting shapes yet.

 

[windyflatsranch]

Thank you everybody. I appreciate the insight. I think for now I'm going to try the templates first and see how that goes.

 

[JJ Roberts]

windy,You never told us what tools you using or going to use,H&C hand push graver or power assist. J.J.

 

[windyflatsranch]

An Air Engraver

 

[JJ Roberts]

windy,All you need is the Lindsay temples for the parallel heel and you'll be good to go. I suggest Carl Bleile's sharping set up for use with a drill press,go to Lindsay's forum and click on tools for information. J.J.

 

[monk]

speedysix has a good point there. learn a basic geometry. learn to use it till you're comfortable with it. all those geometries are going to leave you confused at first. remember-- each has a different feel to it. each has a particular cut and material that it is best suited for. only you thru diligent practice and experimentation can determine what will work best for you.

 

[windyflatsranch]

Thank you very much for the info.