Full15 degree angle on a 120 graver

[loyd freeman]

Does anyone know the settings to put this full 15 degree heel on a 120 degree graver so that you can rotate the graver without causing chaffing.? I have tried and haven,t gotten it yet. Mr.Glasser had a drawing of this but gave no directions on how to set it up. Thanks,Loyd. The knife show in Atlanta was great.

 

[Dave London]

Loyd
You might want to try the Lindsay grind no drag no kidding, Dave

 

[monk]

the word "chafing" leads me to think your making the heel way too long. the heel is usually best for scroll and tight curve work if it's maybe the width of a hair, or not much more than that. any longer than that is just going to cause proplems when you drive into curves. lightly grind the heel and it should just show a rather thin line a few thou. thick.

 

[Andrew Biggs]

Hi Loyd

It can be a bit of a hit and miss affair when you first set it up. It also largley depends on your face angle.

Set the lift angle at 15 degrees. Rotate the tool to 60 degrees and very lightly and with one very small stroke run it across your lap/diamond wheel. Have a look and see if the heel is parralel to the face and even.

If not, then slightly rotate in whatever direction it needs to go and try again. Use very small strokes so you don't start making the heel to big. Keep repeating till it's correct. Once one side is done properley then write down that rotation angle and you should get it right first time on the other side.

I have a small notebook that I write all that stuff in for future reference. Just remember with a full length heel up the side of the graver the angles will change with the face angle. That applies if you use either the standard or Lindsay grind.

The Lindsay graver grind is slightly different again and you can get full instructions/angles, etc for that off Steve's web site.

Cheers
Andrew

 

[John B.]

Hi Loyd.
Here is the way I make a parallel lift for any V-graver.
If you are using a power hone, turn it off and put on your fine lap.
If you are using stones or diamond laps select your fine one.
You do not need power when creating the lift facets IMO.
Use an angle holder or a piece of drill rod to set the degree of lift you want.
You will be pulling the graver back towards yourself.
Set one side of the graver on to the abrasive lap or stone with the bottom edge of the face at 90 degrees to you.
With the back of the graver raised up at the angle of lift you want, press down lightly draw the graver back towards yourself.
Check the size of the lift you have created, it should be between 4-20 thousandths wide, depending on how tight turns you want to cut.
When it looks good to you for length and follows parallel to the front face of the graver repeat it on the other side.
Keep both sides equal in length (except for very special script cutting requirements.)
It is important the lift cuts are equal length and that they meet at the same place on the bottom cutting edge for the graver to cut true.
I realize that this is old stuff to a lot of you, please excuse me.
But a lot of the folks in class used to find it helpful.
Best to all, John B.

 

[Sam]

Thanks, John. Another great tip for the archives. /~Sam

 

[John B.]

Thanks, John. Another great tip for the archives. /~Sam

You're welcome, Sam.
This is just the way I have done it long before any Patent method.
Hope it is a help to some of the folks.
I remember dear Don G. posted a drawing of it years ago, but don't remember if he posted the method of producing the parallel lift style other than the drawing. Maybe you remember?
Anyway, that style of lift has been around since before either Don or I were born.
It's nothing new, as you know.
For those that can spend the money, Paul Hamler's fixture does a great and exact job of producing it.
Thank you for transfering it to your records to help the people who want to do this by hand.
John B.

 

[KSnyder]

I've only seen the parallel in books, great explanation on the technique. sometimes old ways are the best ways.
Kent

 

[thekoabenchgoldsmith]

I am confused here by the terminology...

The "parallel lift angles" or the "parallel lift cuts", are they the heels that are ground on the bottom of the graver? The part of the graver that produces the "bottom" of the cut in the metal?

Regardless...I was helped by the suggestion to turn the powerhone off. I have always struggled to make those little bittey angles on all sorts of things because the powerhone bites so quickly. Never occured to me to simply turn the thing off.

Thanks, John B.

Aloha,
Robert E. Booth
the Koa Bench Goldsmith