factory laser engraving removal?

[williamph]

Hi just wondering if some small, laser engraved (im assuming) scrolls are worth trying to remove from a shotgun receiver or would this prove to be a royal pain in the ass? I'd like to eventually engrave said receiver, I was looking at a CZ-USA Ringneck if it makes any difference. Thanks!

 

[Doc Mark]

The answer is both yes and yes. Yes, it's worth it, and Yes it's a pain in the ass! I spent many hours removing a large amount of laser "engraving" from a Mossberg 20ga. prior to my engraving. It was a long arduous task to draw file and then stone the surfaces but it was worth it in the end. If your doing this for a client, be sure to charge accordingly for the metal prep work.

 

[dlilazteca]

Well worth it, for a blank canvas, here is one i did. Prep is key! Like mentioned before charge accordingly.

 

[williamph]

Thanks guys! What would you recommend as far as sanding materials? A draw file but what else?

 

[dlilazteca]

William, I recommend you practice on a large nut, it has several faces to work with, every piece will speak to you as to what it requires in grit, just doing it is key, dont round edges, i learned from a 4th generation gunsmith, to do this is really an art in itself, one handy tool is to get the large wooden paint mixing sticks at home depot or lowes, the ones they use to mix 5 gallon paint. Cut them in half and shape a handle if you like on the piece that has none, then use a spray glue to stick differnt grits of sandpaper to it, another is that in between grits work it in different directions. That is just the tip of the iceberg, you just have to start doing it. Also a hocky puck cut in half makes for a good holder for thin strips of sandpaper to work on smaller parts.

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[SalihKara]

Thanks guys! What would you recommend as far as sanding materials? A draw file but what else?

Could you please put a photo, I have sone experience with them, some lasers make really deep engraving, if you have this kind of laser engraving it is impossible to remove it

 

[williamph]

Could you please put a photo, I have sone experience with them, some lasers make really deep engraving, if you have this kind of laser engraving it is impossible to remove it

So this isn't the exact gun but basically the same engraving, I only assume it's laser engraving because the whole lot of guns has the same engravings. Looks like in pictures of older models the engraving is already wearing off from carrying the gun.

 

[Tim Wells]

Something to consider.
What is that gun worth new? Now, how much time you spend prepping the metal will vary depending on your methods, materials and skills. Also you must consider what your time is worth. You will likely have more prep time invested getting all that roll stamp or laser etching off and ready to cut than the gun is worth. THEN you have to engrave it which is time, and refinish it when you're done be it blue or case color… that is money.

Having said all that, if it is for yourself and you just want to do it for the education and satisfaction then go for it. If it is for a customer, they have to know that in the end they are very likely to have more than 3 times the money they spent buying the gun to begin with invested in the whole. Which would likely leave them in the hole... so to speak. If they are ok with that then get busy. Also know that you'll have the tendency to underestimate the time it takes to do a proper prep, it always takes longer especially if you've never done it.

I was talking this past week with a fellow that deals in vintage double guns about engraving a Parker Trojan. He told me that when I was done, it would still be JUST an engraved Trojan. Point being, the canvas has to be worthy of the effort, especially if it is ever to be sold. It is easy to get upside down doing things like this so be careful.

That'll be 2 cents please.

PS. Carlos, I didn't know it was possible to find a hockey puck in South Texas! I guess that's no more strange than an ice rink in Key West, saw that with my own eyes...

 

[dlilazteca]

PS. Carlos, I didn't know it was possible to find a hockey puck in South Texas! I guess that's no more strange than an ice rink in Key West, saw that with my own eyes...

Tim

You are absolutely right I went to all my local sports stores and no one had them in stock I had to order them through Academy online, I did find soccer balls in all different colors and sizes though.



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[Mike Fennell]

For the final finish, aluminum strips or sections of aluminum angle makes a good backing for your 800-and-higher papers. I use superglue to attach the paper. For narrow, hard-to-reach areas, I sometimes glue little strips of polishing paper to square 3/16" tubing and mount it in my hand-piece and power-polish those areas.

 

[williamph]

Thanks for all the advice guys, this will probably be just for my own satisfaction and education and probably will never be sold so more than anything it will be a learning experience it sounds haha. And Tim your exactly right, this gun probably is not really worthy of a fancy engraving treatment but it will show potential clients what i can do and i can still shoot some pheasants and clays on the weekends

 

[monk]

eliminating something that should never have been done in the first place ? in spite of the fact i earn bucks with a laser, i don't think the technology belongs on a gun. the approach would depend on so many variables i'm not aware of. if it's your gun, give it a whack. you'll learn much. if for a client, i'd forget doing it. i say this based on your very question. if you need to ask, don't do it for a client. the possibility of a lot of jangled nerves ! who needs it ?

 

[Boomhower]

It wood be a fun project. For sure. I like to learn and see that you do also. I was a stainless steel grinder and welder for a few years loved it. I was trained to use a 9 inch grinder with a sanding pad. And used 4 1/2" also. If you had the time to learn to use one it wood save you a ton of hand work. We all so used 1/4" air motors with sanding rolls on them and buffs they are priceless to me now that I can use them. It wood be good to have one if you don't. How we learned to use them was take a 12" by 18" plate with a mill finish and Polish it out all the way we even had to do it with the 1/4" airmotor but we split it in half if it was not flat at the end we had to start over tell we got it right then we went to pipe and learned that. I thought I wood share a bit of a way to practice before you go to the gun and get a groove or two in it. If you have any questions just Haller I will share what I learned to keep things flat and round as the are now. Sorry I am long winded

 

[williamph]

I guess this leads to my next question, what about the metal to wood fitment once the receiver has been filed and sanded etc..?

 

[Boomhower]

I have a 22 with the that problem I did checkering for a bit and messed up two menu times now I need to fit the receiver to it lol. The good part for you wood is a easy fix

 

[Tim Wells]

To sort of echo some of what Monk said, if you're gonna try it out and it's yours, make the mistakes and corrections on it rather than a clients.
I had never before engraved a single action army and when Mike Dubber came out with those pattern transfers, I was one of the testers.

I had a Colt clone made by Uberti laying around and decided to engrave it so my learning curve would be on it, at least I'd know what to expect in dealing with all those curved and convex surfaces. It turned out just fine and answered a lot of questions so the engraving, which greatly surpassed the intrinsic value of the gun was an education on steel. It'll never sell for what it cost to cut, send it to Turnbull for case coloring, and the like but the lessons learned were well worth it. So go for it and do your best when you do just as if it were for a client.

 

[Beathard]

The value of the gun, while a consideration for some, really shouldnt come into play. I've done engraving that cost 10 to 30 times what the gun is worth. Im doing a cheap 22 with 3k in engraving. I did a Savage over and under with lots of gold inlay. The gold alone was worth 5x the gun. Customers want what they want. If its your gun, the education is worth the effort.

 

[Donny]

Well worth it, for a blank canvas, here is one i did. Prep is key! Like mentioned before charge accordingly.

Is this pistol a stainless Colt? Year and Model? Just curious more than anything else...

Donny

 

[dlilazteca]

Yes stainless, 1911 Government not sure on the year but was a series 80

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[Riflesmith]

Here is a tip for you should you desire to remove/surface any metal with a file! Chalk that file! In other words, make sure you have good files in excellent condition, I usually use Simmons or Heller files. Then get you some file chalk and if you can't find any just some cheap chalk from Walmart or Hobby Lobby will do. Run the chalk over the teeth of the file until the teeth are almost filled, this is a step that has been forgotten by many as it takes time. The chalk in the file teeth does a couple of things, 1) it allows the teeth of the file to cut cleanly, 2) it keeps the burr from sticking in the teeth and possibly cutting a deep furrow in your nice flat surface, 3) it make the file easier to clean as the burrs do not stick in the teeth. It can get a little messy but chalking your files will actually save you time and your files!
Although this is a metal prep issue maybe Sam could post it in the "Tips Archive".