Drill press base

KyleMontoya

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I’ve noticed some drill press based being used for an adjustable stand. What size do you recommend? Do you just take off the drill part?
 

papart1

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pretty much.......I did exactly that on a bench model with slightly larger that 3" tube and left the head hanging in the shed. Some attention is warrented for cut off to fit your needs. Thats it..............works as intented. paps
 

John B.

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pretty much.......I did exactly that on a bench model with slightly larger that 3" tube and left the head hanging in the shed. Some attention is warrented for cut off to fit your needs. Thats it..............works as intented. paps
As Papart said, a bench model can do the job.
I used a Sears Craftsman 14 inch floor model drill press and modified the column to hold the scope mount's vertical column. Works well for me.
 

oniemarc

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I took off the head and the base. Then attached the tube to my desk so it hangs underneath. Works really nice for the way I have everything set up.
 

Doctorslava

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There is a Central machinery benchtop model with a 70mm tube. https://www.harborfreight.com/power...vy-duty-16-speed-bench-drill-press-38142.html
It is a popular model because once you took the head off it fits under the bench and has a round table. I got a cheaper one floor drill press from a craigslist with same 70mm tube. There is a sturdier one with 80mm tube, but the table is not round. You release a pair of set screws and take the head off. you can also use a masonry anchors or just something heavy holding the platform.
 

papart1

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gotta be that 3" column tho.................those little crank up ones are lacking base material In my opinion
 

monk

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not for the engraving bench, but i use a hf bench model for my sharpening system. works well for that.
 

papart1

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monk I'd like to a pic of what your system is please.
 

jldj

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Feb 9, 2009
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I've got 2 drill press stands. One at work and one at home. I bought them off craigslist. 50 bucks for one and 75 bucks for the other (not purchased at the same time). They are both 12" drill presses. I've put a bearing between the table and holder (AKA MIke Dubber on youtube). They both spin like a turntable. However, when the weight of a vise is on them they don't spin as easily, but still turn. I believe adding another bearing on the bottoms may solve this problem. Be aware the inner diameter of the table tubes are unusual measurements, with one being 47mm and the other 48mm. I wasn't able to find bearings that size and had to use a 50mm I.D. bearing and the correct size lock collar. And I'm blessed with a laser welder at work to weld the bearings to the collars.
 

KyleMontoya

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I've got 2 drill press stands. One at work and one at home. I bought them off craigslist. 50 bucks for one and 75 bucks for the other (not purchased at the same time). They are both 12" drill presses. I've put a bearing between the table and holder (AKA MIke Dubber on youtube). They both spin like a turntable. However, when the weight of a vise is on them they don't spin as easily, but still turn. I believe adding another bearing on the bottoms may solve this problem. Be aware the inner diameter of the table tubes are unusual measurements, with one being 47mm and the other 48mm. I wasn't able to find bearings that size and had to use a 50mm I.D. bearing and the correct size lock collar. And I'm blessed with a laser welder at work to weld the bearings to the collars.
I’m a little confused where the bearings would go, but I’m hopefully picking up a stand this week then I might have a better understanding. If you have pictures it would be helpful but I appreciate your response.
 

jldj

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I couldn't find bearings that fit. The table lifts off the stand. Measure the diameter of the table post or the inner diameter of the post holder. I bought a lock ring that was the same inner diameter of the post holder. Thus it slides up on the post. The post holder and lock ring inner diameters were 47mm. I bought a 50mm bearing, centered it on the lockring as close as possible and laser welded it up. So now when I put the lockring back on the table post, the table is spinning on the bearing and the lock ring is tightened on the post. I hand sanded the post and inside of the post holder to make it move more smoothly. The table actually would turn without the bearing but not very well. However, the bottom of the lockring still contacts the top of the post holder. So when weight is put on it even with the bearing it drags. I'm waiting on another bearing to put it on the bottom of the lockring. Then the table will be sitting on a bearing top and bottom. The only thing that should slow it down would be the drag from the table post in contact with the post holder. As the bearing on top of the lockring is between the table and lockring and the bearing on bottom is between the lockring and post holder. Not sure it will work, but I'll find out soon.
 

BCan

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I'm indebted to Scott Pilkington for his advice on making a drill press stand. Here's the link to a video which shows on;
, and a link to his website: http://www.pilkguns.com/bio-scott-shtml/
You can obtain some fairly inexpensive drill presses from Lowe's if you shop around their internet site. I got and floor model for $189.00 last year - a steel (jokes).
Good luck!
 

jldj

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Feb 9, 2009
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In the You tube video I mentioned, Mike Dubber is demonstrating some Script engraving on a large item and talking about work holding. He lifts his drill press table off the post holder and shows a bearing that appears to be connected directly to the table post. Then places it back in the postholder and gives it a spin. Spins pretty nicely. If you have the correct size bearing, then a lockring isn't needed. With a bearing between the bottom of the table and top of the postholder, the only thing that might slow the spin is drag from the post and postholder connection. Smoothing that up solves that issue.
 

KyleMontoya

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Jan 12, 2022
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Las Vegas NV
In the You tube video I mentioned, Mike Dubber is demonstrating some Script engraving on a large item and talking about work holding. He lifts his drill press table off the post holder and shows a bearing that appears to be connected directly to the table post. Then places it back in the postholder and gives it a spin. Spins pretty nicely. If you have the correct size bearing, then a lockring isn't needed. With a bearing between the bottom of the table and top of the postholder, the only thing that might slow the spin is drag from the post and postholder connection. Smoothing that up solves that issue.
Awesome I just picked up the exact same stand from that video for $170 off OfferUp. I now understand how it spins. Thanks for the help everyone.
 

jldj

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In case you can't find a bearing to fit.
 

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jldj

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Feb 9, 2009
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For info; the drill press stand at home didn.t work with a second bearing. I think the table is just too heavy on this one; so when a 15 or 16lb. vise is on it, it's just too much. The one at work spins much more easily with a second bearing (but not nearly as well as an actual turntable). The table on the work stand is not nearly as thick and heavy as the home version. It will do in pinch. The one in the photos will move easily enough, but you have to keep one had on it to move it. I like to keep my free hand on the vise. May try to figure a way to use my legs to turn it. Anyways it still makes a great adjustable stand.
 

jldj

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Feb 9, 2009
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Just put my old no name vise on a grs micro-block rubber donut. Now I can keep my palm on the vise and turn the table with the edge of my hand. Woo-Hoo! Not a turntable; but then again, I've got less than 150.00 in it.
 

jldj

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Feb 9, 2009
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Put some grease on the bearings, post and post holder.......put the no namer back in it's donut......took my free hand off the vise and put it on the table. Got the vise centered up under the scope.....and man it was nice. And all I can do right now is cut lines. Shoulda stayed with it ten-fifteen yrs. ago. Would probably be able to engrave by now.
 

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