Drawing directly onto metal using Sam’s wax and a H9

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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As I had to make my next step as I think I’m ready for that, I draw this one directly on the metal. I have the Sam Alfano’s “Transfer Wax” and a H9 pencil, so I made the design under the microscope and started cutting. The design itself I perhaps could have done better when I look at it now that it is finished, but I suppose that will always be a problem that when finished you realize some parts could be better.
After cutting the mainlines on one side, I made a mirrored transfer using the same wax and tape.
I did cut this with the En Set, also the punched background was piece of cake at low speed.

The knife when closed measures 90mm.

I will draw much more directly on to the metal at real size, as that way at least I don’t add too many details that is easy overdone when drawing at big size.

Making the photo wasn’t that easy, as the bolster is not flat and the brass is polished.

arnaud



 
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Sam

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Glad to see you drawing on the metal, Arnaud. Of course the end result is what counts, but I think there are advantages to direct drawing, and the main one is speed. You certainly have proved that you can do it. It's a nice, balanced design and I do like the background treatment.

Have you tried Chinese white for layout on the workpiece? I've been using transfer wax for so many years that I'm used to it, but many engravers use (and like) Chinese white.

~Sam
 

Hora

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I like your design. It looks good on the knife. Will you continue on the other parts?
 

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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Sam, no I never used Chinese White. I did some layout with a pencil on Ti, as Ti is not polished and drawing on it is like on paper.
I also tried Mike Dubber's "Chap Stick" mixed with graphite powder, that works as well pretty good for transfer, main problem is that he uses the white Scotch tape and that is harder to see true when making a mirrored transfer, at least when I tried that several times.
I also downloaded your Video on Command about transfer to find out your method for mirroring. And the clear tape sure is easy to place at the right position.

Yes Hora, I will do all other parts as well. Thing is, this is a beautiful knife, but it only costed 5 euro, so I will never be able to sell that knife for the right price, so it will be another present. I already made several knives that became presents for my family members and friends.

But at least when practising on a cheap knife, there is something that can be used, doing it on a practice plate sure is practising as well, but even a cheap knife is more fun and the challenge is higher.

I will show once finished.

And I know some parts of scrolls disappeared in the background when using the beading tool.

arnaud
 

Sam

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Arnaud: I bought clear tape at the grocery store down the street from the train station in Antwerpen. The name is PITT and it works perfectly for transfers. I bought one PITT tape with serrated edges which makes tearing the very easy. I wish more tapes were made this way.

Chapstick works well too. In fact many slightly sticky/greasy materials can be used. One guy years ago told me he uses Door Ease, which is large stick of lubricant used for house doors that get stuck.
 

mrthe

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I'm use the Sam's transfer wax too and work well, very well is very clean, before i had used the classic method heare in spain that work well too, is a little plastice ball that you can pick on the metal and before you don't want any type of reflection of the light simply using a little talc powder on it give you a nice white surface for draw.
i have try the chinese white too but maybe the talc powder is more fast.
 

Chujybear

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I use Haida white.
Thinned white shellac w alcohol
Doesn't chip or rub off. Comes off with booze when done.
G
 

GTJC460

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Nice work. I tend to like using the Tom Whites solution drawing. It holds up really nice during the engraving process, plus you can erase any drawing errors. Also on jewelry, it makes a nice protective layer on the item so it doesn't get scratched during engraving. Basically eliminates having to repolish the item and potentially damaging the nice crisp, sparkly cuts.

It makes a surface that's almost like a very thin layer of plastic, kinda like shrink wrapping. Most of the engraving I've been doing has been either laid out by hand or drawn directly on the item.

I typically transfer my lettering jobs as it's really quick and easy.
 

monk

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arnaud- this is the kind of stuff that i really enjoy seeing. great job. now to a serious note--- if you get any of sams' wax on your fingers, you might go bald ! just look what happened to sam.
 

Beathard

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Chunky bear, you use booze to take it off? Why not rubbing alcohol and drink the booze?
 

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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That upper right scroll grows from the end of the centre upper scroll, yes I know I removed a bit too much of the background. At real size it does. But I agree it is an error although the design itself made sense.

Doc, I think your warning about scratching my head comes too late, I still have long hears but not that much as before.

Thanks all the others for your support on how you draw onto metal using similar kind of wax

Arnaud
 

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