Question: Clear powder coat over engraved item

Dani Girl

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Doesn't everyone need an AL in their life :) (AL who?)

I think the stove paint should be fine. I have seen my knife maker mate re-fill my engraving with it when he's wiped a bit out before heat treating it and the paint holds up to stainless steel heat treating, that's hot
 

Dani Girl

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I am planning to try the Cerakote route, a friend sent me a little test pot of it the other day and I just have to figure out how to do it and find a few minutes to try. I'm planning to see what effect it has on top of anodized titanium.
 

Mike_Morgan

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John B. was asking me in a PM about how the test plate for the drum engraving ended up working out. So here it is.

Interesting results, the High Temp grill paint worked out pretty well, Speedball Ink, which I usually use, didn't fare so well, and Black Acrylic Latex paint burned out entirely.

This makes me a lot more comfortable with the fact that it's going to be powdercoated. Thanks for all the suggestions, it looks like we managed to figure out a solution, with all your help!
 

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John B.

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Thanks for sharing the test Mike.
I know I learned from it and glad you got a reassuring result
Wishing you and all our Cafe friends a wonderful Thanksgiving.
 

Idaho Flint

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Hi Mike, I did this type of thing a few years ago on pendents that I made out of brass a few years ago. I used clear powder coat that was made for wheel rims, and a cheap powder sprayer I bought from Harbor Freight. I cured the powder coat in a toaster oven. You don't want to do this in a oven that is used to cook food, as it will leave toxins behind. Also make sure you do this outside, because of the toxins. The hard part was getting the temp and time correct. This was discovered with some testing on scrap pieces. I had highlighted the engraving with flat black paint made by rust-o-leam. (Sorry for misspellings). I had no problems with the paint.

Anyway, it came out real nice, and years latter still look as bright and sharp as the day I did them.

Mike
 

Mike_Morgan

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Hi Mike, I did this type of thing a few years ago on pendents that I made out of brass a few years ago. I used clear powder coat that was made for wheel rims, and a cheap powder sprayer I bought from Harbor Freight. I cured the powder coat in a toaster oven. You don't want to do this in a oven that is used to cook food, as it will leave toxins behind. Also make sure you do this outside, because of the toxins. The hard part was getting the temp and time correct. This was discovered with some testing on scrap pieces. I had highlighted the engraving with flat black paint made by rust-o-leam. (Sorry for misspellings). I had no problems with the paint.

Anyway, it came out real nice, and years latter still look as bright and sharp as the day I did them.

Mike

Thanks for the input, Mike... The whole issue with this, is that Im engraving a drum for a guy with e HUGE powdercoating oven, and he's insisting on powdercoating after it's engraved.and I was worried that it would bake out the ink I was using, which by using a test plate, I learned that what I feared was actually going to happen. I'm not doing the powder coat myself. The members here were immensely helpful in finding a paint that would pass muster and stand up to the heat.
 

Big-Un

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Well Mike, I have been a little busier than normal and not near my computer files at home, so I haven't posted the piece I told you about with Cerakote after engraving. A customer had me engrave his service pistol then had it Cerakoted and didn't like the fact it kinda covered the engraving, mostly lettering, so I went over it again, removing the Cerakote from the lettering and the gunsmith recoated the lettering in a contrasting Cerakote, baked it and he was happy. A lot of trial and error and extra work (at no cost to him) but he was happy. The things you do for friends! I'm still going to post those pics, probably next week.
 

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