Centering your microscope

phil

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:thumbsup:I struggled an awful lot with workpiece centering until I read Mitch Moschetti's instructions a while ago. They are by far the best, easiest, cheapest etc. A big thumbs up from me for that post Mitch.:thumbsup:
 

Tim Wells

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Another way to skin this cat: Once I got my scope centered, if I remember it was with a piece of round brass or a punch turned upside down in the center of my vise, I took a sharpie and traced a line around the donut onto my vise stand. If it moves, I'll know it and push it back in place.

As for the scope, mine is on a boom stand not an acrobat stand. The collar that holds the scope boom to the mast has a vertical sharpie line on it that lines up with the one like it on the locking collar just underneath it. That locking collar is what keeps the scope boom from sliding down your mast and also acts as something for it to ride on so you can swing it out of your way. Since the locking collar stays put no matter what, it's the perfect place for the registration mark my good ol sharpie made.

I can re-center my scope instantly this way and it was cheap, just a little ink.
 

dlilazteca

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here's my 'no tools' method that i've been using successfully for over 25 yrs:
http://www.engraverscafe.com/showth...ee!)-fast-amp-easy-Microscope-Centering-trick

Mitch im lost in step 5

#5- using the eccentric centering adjustment mechanism on the vise, move the target area the rest of the distance to the center of the field. (Evidently this process can restore the holes in your vise. whew!)

I'm using a GRS Magnablock

Mitch if you dont mind once I get this right I'll make a youtube video if you dont mind, but as of now its driving me crazy!!!!
 
Last edited:

mitch

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hi Carlos-

if you're using a standard vise such as GRS Magnablock on a turntable instead of using a special centering vise/block with an "eccentric centering adjustment mechanism" (like a GRS Positioning Vise: http://www.grstools.com/workholding/vises-and-blocks/003-541.html) you would move the vise/block on the surface of the turntable when that's called for in my instructions, and move the whole block & turntable as a unit instead of moving the whole eccentric positioning block on the bench for that operation.

ok, you DO have your Magnablock on a turntable, right? if you don't have it on a turntable, then you don't have two independent axes of rotation to work with to center it in the field of your microscope. working under a microscope without a positioning vise or a standard vise on a turntable will be an exercise in frustration...
 

Southern Custom

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Carlos,
Once you have a turntable, your vice at that point only holds the work and no longer turns. The turntable is what turns now. So, if you have say, a knife, sticking way out to the side of the jaws, you would merely slide your vise off to the side of the turntable until the area of the knife you are working on is in the dead center of the turntable. Now that section rotates under the scope instead of swinging around in an arc.
Another thing I've found I like is that I use an old Vigor vise with a felt donut. Makes repositioning the vise on the turntable easy and quick.
Best thing since sliced bread.
Layne
 

Southern Custom

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Oh, and J.J. That magnavisor still gets a lot of use around my shop as well. Sometimes you just can't get the proper perspective working under the scope no matter how low you set it. For those situations, a 7-10 power visor fills the bill.
It wasn't until I started working under the scope that I found out certain things are tougher to cut under it. I now cut all my backbones using the 10 power visor and only then do I go under the scope.
Layne
 

highveldt

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Layne; Dead on.
Carlos,
Once you have a turntable, your vice at that point only holds the work and no longer turns. The turntable is what turns now. So, if you have say, a knife, sticking way out to the side of the jaws, you would merely slide your vise off to the side of the turntable until the area of the knife you are working on is in the dead center of the turntable. Now that section rotates under the scope instead of swinging around in an arc.
Another thing I've found I like is that I use an old Vigor vise with a felt donut. Makes repositioning the vise on the turntable easy and quick.
Best thing since sliced bread.
Layne
 

mitch

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thanks for pointing that out, Layne- for those of you using a standard block on a turntable, you need to lock the rotation on the block and just use the turntable.
 

dlilazteca

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thanks

Thanks all for the help...Really thank you..its of to save my pesos to buy the grs turntable, a little hard right now with the holidays coming up unless someone has one at a price I cannot refuse.

thanks again
 

rod

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As you have been reading, there are many approaches to centering your work, when using a microscope, and here is mine, written up in detail:

http://picasaweb.google.com/rodcameron2/

You will see the photo album and instructions referring to laser centering.

Total cost of materials is about $6 and that includes a red laser, with focusing lens built in, and a small potentiometer to dim the laser dot to a very small size.

There is no need whatsoever to maintain a definite scope position, the scope may be swung away to allow hammer and chisel work, etc., then immediately brought back.

Rod
 

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