Buffing Tips Wanted

[M. J. Atkinson]

Kevin, you're right about applying to much compound. What I was getting at was that I get my compounds from Brownells and the stuff is very soft at room temp and will sling all over when trying to apply to the wheel. Applying a frozen stick allows the friction of the wheel to melt off just enough to coat the surface and not make such a gosh-awful mess. Mike

 

[Ron Smith]

I have used buffs most of my life and the first thing I would reccomend is safety. Buffing is extremely dangerous. It can yank a knife out of your hands and throw it across the room at suprising force, or into you. It can yank a gun part out of your hands too, after you have spent much tme trying with sanding paper to get that now buff ready piece finished, and that could be ding city. Get your buffing skills down solid before trying complex surfaces and use your head and think about it before you do it. Polishing flat surfaces is much different than difficult ones. If you have long hair, keep it out of the way. It will snatch you bald in an eyewink. 3/4 horse motors aren't easy to pull down either.

Personally, I think most engraving looks better on a satin (400-600 grit) finish, or french gray anyway, especially bulino work. Bright finishes were carried on from the past, but most top end work is not mirror polished.

The others have given you other good tips. You may already know these things, but I'm just trying to try and protect you if you don't.

There are certain things about the way you have to hold onto things and the direction you buff, and that is why Scott said they had to do a lot of polishing to become good at it. Get your brother to help you. There is more to it than meets the eye. When you can do it without rounding flats and screw holes, you are ready.

Oh, another thing, when you have pitting, you have to go at it with a draw file and get under the pits, or fill them with iron inlays or weld them. That is a whole nuther ball game.

And that is my two cents on the subject.

Ron S