Annealing SAA frames

[jeff flannery engraving]

For years I have used the open flame method of annealing. I have tried the kill method with stainless steel foil. I still have oxidation and scale. Do any of you know how to prevent the scale or remove it after annealing?

 

[John B.]

Jeff,
If I use the SS wrap method I include a half sheet of cigarette wrapping paper.
As the heat rises this catches fire and burns off the oxygen which is the main cause of the oxidation and scale.
Have you tried using this trick? Not perfect but helps a lot for me.
I really admire your work, bye the way.
Best regards.

 

[ED DELORGE]

Hello Jeff, I like your web site, it all looks great. To your question about annealing, I have not found it necessary. The carbide gravers always slice through it. Now once I restored a buntline that had been in a fire. The cylinder was hard as glass I drew it back at 1200 degrees for one hour and then it was tolerable. If I had to anneal now I would run a small stainless line into my oven and feed in a continuous supply of argon. That would force all of the oxygen out.

Good Luck
Ed

 

[BJREBUCK]

Hi jeff,
i've been using brownells pbc anti scaling compound for several years now
with excellent results. After cooling it washes off with hot water. It's
good to about 1600 f. Leaves no scale at all and requires only minor
polishing to brighten the metal after.
Give it a try
brian

 

[vilts]

Brian, How do you prepare/clean the metal before applying the pbc? I tried it on one knife, but on some parts of the blade it just wouldn't stick, no matter how much I tried. And of course I got oxidation in these parts during heat treatment.

Hi jeff,
i've been using brownells pbc anti scaling compound for several years now
with excellent results. After cooling it washes off with hot water. It's
good to about 1600 f. Leaves no scale at all and requires only minor
polishing to brighten the metal after.
Give it a try
brian

 

[metalchipper]

Hi Jeff
Hope this helps,

Are you heating up the part first?
To use the pbc, you have to heat up the part enough to melt the pbc on it. Keep reheated and sticking the part into more
pbc until it is covered in the melted gooey stuff. It looks like
melted plastic, then you can bring it up to annealing temperature.

If it is not sticking I would have to guess, that it is not getting hot enough.

If you have read the pbc instructions and find my information redundant, please ignore this post. :beat up:

 

[BJREBUCK]

Vilts,
metal chipper is correct. I degrease the parts thoroghly with acetone
then place in the furnace and bring it up to 450 to 500 f, let it soak for about 15 minutes. I dump the parts in a pan full of the pbc and then scoop
the dry powder over the parts. It will melt and cover the parts with a black goo. I keep doing it as the parts cool in the pan until every surface is covered with the material. If there are any holes in the coating it is
because the parts weren't hot enough. Return them to the furnace and
heat some more and repeat. When every surface is well coated place back
into the furnace and follow your normal proceedure.
Brian

 

[jerrywh]

Paint the action with black brazing flux. Apply heavily. The kind used for furnace brazing. You can get it at almost any welding supply. Than wrap in stainless foil and put a piece of titanium in the envelope with the part. When you remove the action just wash it in very hot water and it will remove the flux. Titanium sucks up oxygen like a sponge.

 

[jeff flannery engraving]

Thanks for all the information on annealing. I'm trying to cut down on post-annealing sanding and clean up.
Thanks, Jeff Flannery