Question: aluminum

[Msid21]

when engraving cheaper quality aluminum, i find that the edges of my line peel or roll, and cant get a clean line, especially shade lines, also because the metal is so soft these lines usually end up wider than i would like, it there a trick to engraving soft metal, i am using low throttle, and hold back so that it don't dive, but is not consistent:beat up:, Mike

 

[Neo Dutch]

I use a smaller hammer.

 

[Haraga.com]

Try one of these.

 

[silverchip]

Also use Alumatap fluid for lube!

 

[Msid21]

thank you for the input, i am using an air tool, the monarch from GRS for these lines, and just started engraving in Sept. just cant seem to get is consistent, i seem to be doing better with harder metals, so i thought it might have a trick to the aluminum

 

[Zhyyra]

You could also try paraffin as a cutting lubricant.

 

[Roger Bleile]

It is important that you use a lubricant when engraving aluminum. I use Liquid Wrench or kerosene but I'm not sure that the type is all that important. The problem with aluminum is that without lube you will get a build up (also known as loading) on the tip of your graver, usually on the heel. Loading will cause you to lose the sharpness of your lines.

I also find that the Lindsay uniform parallel heel works well in aluminum but it must be dipped in lube often just like a conventional heel.

Check your tip often with your scope or loupe to see if your are getting a build-up. If you see a little blob of metal forming dress the tip.

The best policy is to avoid working in aluminum but if you specialize in car and motorcycle parts you have to live with it.

RB

 

[JJ Roberts]

Msid21,Heres the lube I use 50% transmission fluid 50% kerosene or gun cleaner Hoppe's#9.I also like the Hoppe's when drilling & tapping,1/4 turns back out clean tap relube 1/4 turn till theard is complete. Found these lubricants work fine. J.J.

 

[Jim Sackett]

A small dab of turpintine will give you a nice bright cut.

Jim

 

[tim halloran]

Msid21: Try Using WD-40, I've done A Lot Of Aluminum Motorcycle Parts In The Past 25 Years, And Found It Works Well. You Must Keep The Tip And Heel Well Lubed At All Times. Some Of The Better Quality Aircraft Alloys Like 6061-T6 Cut Like A Dream Because It Is Heat Treated. I've Have Found A Lube Called Burr Life Is One Of The Best I've Found For Non Ferros Metals. It Is An Animal Fat Based Lube sold by Rio Grande, A Jewelers Supply Company. It Is A Little Thicker Than WD-40 And Stays On The Tool Longer. I Used It To Cut A Big Frame Lock Folder Made Of 6AL4V Titainium Just Recently And If I Kept The Area I Was Engraving Flooded With Lube It Cut Like 416 Stainless. Use A QTip To Apply The Lube. Also Keep Your Tools Razor Sharp. Now I Use My Diamond Wheels To Sharpen, Then To A Ceramic Lap, Followed By A 6 Inch Cast Iron Lap Wheel Sold By GRS. Your Tools Will Be Really Sharp.

 

[mitch]

Like Roger said above- aluminum will stick to a graver point just like it will clog or "pin" the teeth of a file. In an effort to minimize this problem, I've had mixed results experimenting with both a highly polished graver point and a 600 diamond finish. On the one hand, you'd think a polished point would offer less resistance and less sticking, but it also means it won't hold any lubricant for any length of time on the point (it's too smooth & wipes right off) AND a perfectly polished point means nears 100% contact area as it cuts which can actually encourage galling. On the other, a rougher point will hold lube better and on a microscopic level actually has less contact surface with the metal being plowed thru, but yeah, you can't get around the fact that it's a rougher tool face.

Other annoying considerations are the fact that most grades throw up a huge bur to either side of the cut (a very shallow face angle helps slice more cleanly) and trying to really bright cut it can be next to impossible with some grades- it tends to leave a torn trough instead of a nice, shiny cut.

The only thing I've learned for certain is that I hate it...