While studying Chinese White

[Arnaud Van Tilburgh]

As soon as I’m done fine tuning and experimenting on Chinese White drawing, I will record a video on the subject.
And of course I’m not the first one using this technique, but it are my first steps drawing on Chinese White and I like it a lot. I had to experiment to find out what is the best and easiest way to successfully adding a layer on metal able to draw on easily and being able to make correction.
So in the mean while I had some engraving and shading practice.
This one is a 5 euro knife with 3 blades,, yes can’t only bee a Chinese one. So I also will have to test it on a non-Chinese knife. :biggrin:

The width of the bolster is 10 mm, yes I’m still drawing small.

arnaud

 

[Southern Custom]

Nothing wrong with small. More and more I find myself enjoying tiny little work. (see English Scroll) It allows you to put a lot of time and effort into a piece and still finish it in your lifetime.
Gotta love the Chinese white Arnaud! I've used the stuff for years to draw straight onto pieces.
Layne

 

[Arnaud Van Tilburgh]

Thanks Layne, as you say you used it for many years, does that mean you don't anymore? and what method do you use instead?

arnadu

 

[Willem Parel]

I like it a lot what you've done there Arnaud, nice scrollwork.

 

[scott99]

Hi, Chinese White works great,but to draw and erase flat white auto primer is better in some ways.You have to tape off the work a bit before application but then it holds up very well. A bit of alcohol and its gone.

Just go with a very light application.

scott99

 

[Brian Marshall]

Arnaud, I use the Chinese white or ordinary flat white spray paint on "one of a kind" jobs. Been doin' that for 43 years now... direct drawing IS the fastest method.

Transparent tape transfers for right/left, front/back, double sided work - after the first side is cut.



Nowadays I use ink jet transparencies for production work on identical pieces. Before that, I was using laser/acetone for multiple pieces.

And way before that, a copy machine and carbon paper. Not very crisp, but it was a long, long, long time ago. Don't think they even make "carbon paper" anymore?



I can't see going to all the trouble of drawing oversize, reducing, scanning, printing and burnishing for just one piece of work. (Unless you are being overpaid?)

Your mileage may vary... whatever trips yer trigger or floats yer boat...




Brian

 

[rmgreen]

Arnaud, I"ll give 10 euro for it!

Roger

 

[Arnaud Van Tilburgh]

Thanks for the info Scott Willem, Roger and Brian. I understand Brian about drawing for one of a kind jobs, it is a bit contradiction that you use a faster method for a more valuable item, as to me a one of a kind has a higher price than production work.
As carbon has a longer history, for transfer than the use of printer, so there will be better products instead of Chinese White. So I will try Scott's way using auto primer as well as other ways. Perhaps I can find a more accurate an better way for drawing direct onto metal.
Jeroen, my son in law, he also started using the Chinese White, and in a way it forces you to cut after drawing, and that is a good thing as we need practice too. Using the Damar en toner-printer method, too much time was spend before even making one cut. So this drawing on the metal method feeds all engraving skills.

arnaud

Roger, the 10 euro is shipping included? :biggrin:

 

[Brian Marshall]

Be careful with using the flat primer spray paints... some contain an acid etchant to "stick" better to rusty surfaces.

If you are working on a highly polished surface, you may not want that polish removed? Happened to me one time too many.

Went back to plain flat white paint. Safer... at least for my type of work.


Brian

 

[Arnaud Van Tilburgh]

Thanks Brian, perhaps the Chinese White isn't that good on highly polished silver neither, but I don't engrave that many highly polished items. Most of the time the Ti items they are just treaded with sandpaper grid 2000 maximum.

arnaud