TRANSFERS

papart1

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I can't transfer squat, Ive tried lazer with fixative, inkjet # 62 HP ink, deodorant on al. s.s
steel. Can't get anything to even do something, have TW fluid, TW film.........................nothing please help. VERY FRUSTRATING Rob
 

oniemarc

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If all fails...I make a "normal" transfer to mild steel. Then simply take a wax transfer from those cuts. Scribe it and get cracking.

It is more work, but also makes a nice excuse for a practice run of your lines, hahaha.
 

papart1

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If all fails...I make a "normal" transfer to mild steel. Then simply take a wax transfer from those cuts. Scribe it and get cracking.

It is more work, but also makes a nice excuse for a practice run of your lines, hahaha.
normal meaning what Oni? drawing it out?
 

V150super

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Brother laser copier and basic nail polish remover works for me. Just make sure the part is warm and 3X clean with acetone.
 

T.G.III

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In the interest of transferring, if it is a flat surface, use transfer wax (think Chapstick will work in a pinch) on the chosen article, tape your transfer on one side and scribe over the transfer, this will "affix the wax" to the back side of the transfer leaving your design imprint on chosen article, takes patience and checking progress to make sure you're getting all of the lines transferred.

I've done it after learning about it on one of the Sam Alfano videos, thinking it was the lettering video.
 

DDriller

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The best transfers I get start with cleaning the plate very well with acetone. I then make my transfer with plain paper with a HP laser printer. Mix 20% Damar varnish with 80% lighter fluid. Put a couple of drops of the Varnish mixture on the plate and evenly coat the plate using your finger. When the plate gets sticky to touch put your transfer on the plate. Gently moisten with cheap nail polish or mix acetone 80% to 20 percent water on a cotton ball, do not get it too wet. I then burnish the transfer until it dries. I repeat the acetone and burnish 2 or 3 times. Gently lift the transfer on the edge and see if it transferred. If it hasn't repeat the acetone and burnish.
 

oniemarc

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normal meaning what Oni? drawing it out?
Your regular preferred method for transferring. Personally I like the laserprint with nail polish remover(with acetone) method. Straight acetone doesn't work for me. Sometimes on silver or stainless(when it has a high polish for instance) this method will not work very wel or at all. In those cases I will transfer the print onto a mild steel plate and cut that first. Then pull a wax transfer for the actual item to be engraved.
 

papart1

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Your regular preferred method for transferring. Personally I like the laserprint with nail polish remover(with acetone) method. Straight acetone doesn't work for me. Sometimes on silver or stainless(when it has a high polish for instance) this method will not work very wel or at all. In those cases I will transfer the print onto a mild steel plate and cut that first. Then pull a wax transfer for the actual item to be engraved.
straight b&w cartridge........not monchrome right? I have relied on #62 ink and transfer film for years, all of sudden that stopped dead in its tracks.............
 

tdelewis

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Check the archive for transfers using baking parchment paper. There are good explanations using that technique. It will transfer 100% of the toner on the metal. After transferring using that method always remember to heat the metal to fix the image so it will not smear. I use a heat gun. My go to method, like most others, is laser printer and acetone.
 

oniemarc

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straight b&w cartridge........not monchrome right? I have relied on #62 ink and transfer film for years, all of sudden that stopped dead in its tracks.............
A monochrome laser printer is the same as a B&W laser printer, as there is only 1 cartridge filled with black toner.
I have never tried inkjet transfers, so I wouldn't have a clue on that matter
 

alwayslearning2012

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Layne told me when one makes a copy from a printer, "make sure the printer set to pure black, and not color"

I don't own a printer, but I have success using copies I had done at FedEx/Kinkos. The chap-stick method...I haven't tried yet because I'm gonna have to shave some pencils to get the graphite powder I need.
Some readers at this point would quickly retort and refer me to amazon. But as with my graver sharpening, and shaping, I prefer to do it old school. As in 17th century old school.

Good Luck,

AL12
 

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