Ring light review

[James Roettger]

I finally bought a GRS LED ring light after years of using side lamps. It seems my old side lamp set up may be the better. Even though the ring light can be switched to emit light from one of four quadrants at a time it seems to more or less be a layout blaster. Basically the light bounces straight back into the viewers eyes as it comes from directly above. A pencil and white water color layout is greatly faded and much harder to see. I previously used two cheap office lamps with 23watt daylight colored compact fluorescent bulbs. I also added a cheap LED clip lamp from Target to the mix. These lamps were all placed at the side and light skimmed the surface rather than bouncing straight into it. Side lightling reveals much better clarity and contrast. It seems the new ring lamp will be of only occasional use and I would not buy another.

 

[GTJC460]

The fluorescent bulb ring light is better. I use a cheap one that I bought from amscope. I think they are $19.99.

 

[James Roettger]

I went to Amscope. What I found most interesting was the dual fiberoptic light. These could be positioned at the sides where the light should be. I would have to assume that all ring lights will create bounce because of their position in relation to the work. I am hoping I will be able to at least use it for stone setting where the surface is not flat but contoured with beads and such.

 

[bram ramon]

Bert is right the simple fluorescent bulb right light is the best. I tried led it reflect on the metal i even have a zeiss fiberoptic very powerful and expensive but the light isn't good it reflects and slightly yellow light to.. Not good

 

[Sam]

I'm a fluorescent guy too. I've tried LED ring lights and they just don't work as well as fluorescent for me. I also use side lighting when doing layout, and I illustrate this in a new video I'm working on. For side lighting I use a Wolf EcoFlex dimmable LED light.

 

[Beathard]

I use the ring fluorescent bulb and love it. I am intrigued by the fiber optics as well.

 

[fegarex]

I have the LED and like it but I don't do jewelry. My stuff is firearms and they usually aren't high polished. I would not recommend the LED for polished metals.

 

[Chujybear]

Fiber optics does a real nice flood. Side lights still used to show depth

 

[silverchip]

The light on my Lieca scope is really nice. It has 4 different intensities and on full power it can be too bright at times but really lights up things so I can really see what I 'm doing.

 

[GTJC460]

I believe this is the one I have: http://www.ebay.com/itm/8w-Fluoresc...069?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6987138d

It's now $21.99.

They also have a 12w one that's about $35

 

[billrice@charter.net]

I use a ring light and a side light. Depending on what i am working on infact I find that using both together helps in certain situations. My side light is such that I can direct the light any way I want I also have a 4' dual flouresant above my scope and I sometimes use it also. I have my bench setup in front of a large window facing south . I really like it when I get bright sun light coming in through the window.

Bill

 

[rod]

I am also a fluorescent user, but I have two alternatives, and I can switch from one to the other in a few seconds, or sometimes use both.

I have a standard GRS fluorescent ring light for truly flat lighting, and a second directional fluorescent light that is mounted on a simple adjustable arm seen in the photo. I bought it for about $28 from IKEA, complete with its large anglepoise. You will see the original lamp half way down this site:

http://greentablelampsx.blogspot.com/2012/10/ikea-lighting-fixtures-photos-model.html

I threw away the big mount, too awkward, and remounted it in a more convenient way that does not get in my way. I kept the light, the shade, and the ac adapter. It is all up close to the vise. I can pull it close, and also tilt it, raise or lower, and swing it hither and thither, to get the best contrast possible. It works great! You don't want to be bumping into stuff. The photo shows it pulled forward, but its most useful position is behind the vise, parallel to the edge of the scope base.

Rod

 

[Andrew Biggs]

and I illustrate this in a new video I'm working on

C'mon Sam..........spill your guts. What's the new video your working on????

I've used both ring light and like them both. I currently use the GRS fluro and it's great. The LED light has a bit more power and the dimming feature is cool. If anything was really shiny I just used to (and still do) dab a bit of modelling clay or Sam's wax on the surface to take off the shine

Cheers
Andrew

 

[Arnaud Van Tilburgh]

I use the GRS Led ring light and it works great for me. I agree on this one with Andrew, reflection I deal with using Sam's transferring wax if needed.
I started using the fluro's at first, needed one every year and the way they were mounted on the scope didn't left much working distance. By using the Led ring light from GRS I now have at least 5 cm extra working distance.


Arnaud

 

[thughes]

Rod, this is very disturbing. The only thing that photo of your bench that even remotely looks out of place is the q-tip on the floor. And I'm think that must be there for some very specific reason.

 

[rod]

" Rod, this is very disturbing. The only thing that photo of your bench that even remotely looks out of place is the q-tip on the floor. And I'm think that must be there for some very specific reason. ..."

Yes, the cleanliness in this photo came up before. It was taken after I put a new bench top in place, it was just varnished and having a few days to dry and harden. The Q-tip does not have symbolic meaning, but now that you mention it, I am reminded of the Zen master inspecting the work of a young monk who had laboured all day to clean the meditation garden, he felt he had got it close to perfection, but the Master felt it was not natural, picking up fallen leaves from a pile, he sprinkled them on the spotless pathway. "There, that's better..."

Rod

 

[billrice@charter.net]

As you can see all my lights in this picture except for the 4' flouresant light hanging from the ceiling. Notice how clean my area is ( not ) I cannot seem to keep up with
it and right now I have three customer engraving projects going on at one time plus I am working on a knife for the MB Gun Club.

Bill

 

[rod]

Bill, I'll come clean your shop, if you give me that second ball vise on your bench?

Rod

 

[billrice@charter.net]

Right in your dreams.

Rod one of my main engraving teachers/mentor/Friend was Bertil Aasland. When he died I bought / inherited allot of his engraving equipment. He owned 2 of the Pilot vises His wife made sure that one went to me and another went to a girl engraver who lives in europe. I have to tell you that his death effected me so much I could barely do any engraving for about 2 years. I really miss him. He taught me allot and was in the process of teaching me allot more when he passed away. I think that is why I really like the people who do Hand Engraving They are the type of people you can really have a heartfelt friendship with. Just on Sams Forum the ideas and help that is shared is rarely limited. Many of you share thoughts / designs / ideas with the intent on really helping others to learn this art.
Where I am at today as a engraver could not of happened with out the help from all those who like Bertil / Sam / Berry / Phil / Steve (the list is long ) have given to us from their hearts so we can advance.
Thanks to all of you

Bill Rice

PS that second ball vise is one of my favorite possessions

 

[Barry Lee Hands]

Back in the day, Nimschke used a gas lamp, as did Helfrict and most of the old school engravers.
I have an LED and a fluorescent,on seperate meiji scopes, and I got to say I prefer the LED, its twice as bright, and doesnt bother my layout, but then, I use black felt pen almost exclusively.
Once in a while I use a side light, a 300w halogen with a piece of glass as a diffuser which I blasted with aluminum oxide, mostly on the pearl, cuz pearl just eats light.