Help, please: Next step background

monk

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a beading tool or dot punch i'll wager. sorry i don't know the difference between beading tool and dot punch. i'll have to check rogers' glossary.
 

hsc

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the background appears to be concave dots as opposed to convex like a beading tool wood make, possibly made with a standard center punch and a hammer, one tap at a time? looks to me.
steve
 

tsterling

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I want my glock background to look like the one
Carlos De La O III

Hi Carlos,

Here is a link to a simple engraving tutorial I designed for knife makers: http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=24166&hl=

In it I discuss how best to use a combination of engraving and rotary burs. About halfway down the first page I talk about "scribble" texture that I use fairly often in my engraving. Have a look at that, and pay attention to the sizes of burs I use. In the example of your Glock slide, I think you haven't used small enough burs yet. You've used what looks to be a larger bur, which is fine for bulk material removal, but I feel you need to progress to smaller burs and do more work to get the floor of the excavations much flatter. Once you've done that, then perhaps consider using a flat punch to get the floor even flatter and more even. From there you can either use either the"scribble" texture I described, or stippling.

Good luck!

Tom
 
Last edited:

dlilazteca

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Tom

I'm not done yet but I love it

"
You're about to start out on a path of many very bad habits, more expensive than smoking and at least as addictive. But, engraving won't kill you. Engraving might cause your significant other to kill you,"

Boy your right

Carlos De La O III
 

dlilazteca

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
Laredo, Texas
Hi Carlos,

Here is a link to a simple engraving tutorial I designed for knife makers: http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=24166&hl=

In it I discuss how best to use a combination of engraving and rotary burs. About halfway down the first page I talk about "scribble" texture that I use fairly often in my engraving. Have a look at that, and pay attention to the sizes of burs I use. In the example of your Glock slide, I think you haven't used small enough burs yet. You've used what looks to be a larger bur, which is fine for bulk material removal, but I feel you need to progress to smaller burs and do more work to get the floor of the excavations much flatter. Once you've done that, then perhaps consider using a flat punch to get the floor even flatter and more even. From there you can either use either the"scribble" texture I described, or stippling.

Good luck!

Tom

Tom I used a number six for the larger area, what do you suggest a number 2 to make it more even?

Carlos De La O III
 

tsterling

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Tom I used a number six for the larger area, what do you suggest a number 2 to make it more even?

Carlos De La O III

Hi Carlos,

I don't know about the dental numbering system, but I would use a bur that is considerably smaller than you've used in the photos for flattening (say about one fourth the diameter of the one you've already used), and the very smallest for the final "scribble" texture. I use a 5 thousandths diameter ball carbide bur for texture (the smallest ball carbide I've been able to find).

Obviously, trying this on a practice plate before the Glock would be the better part of valor! Also try the stipple method on the practice plate to see which you like better.

Also, before texturing I sometimes find it useful to run a square graver (laid 90 degrees over on its side) around the bottom edges of the flat background to tighten things up. The burs leave the bottom edges rounded, and it depends on how well you accomplished that whether you need the square graver treatment.

Remember, neatness counts! So does attention to detail... Patience is a virtue... Use the right tool for the right job... I got a million of 'em, but you get the idea:)

Tom
 
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