Newbie question about sharpening

[jacksonrobinson]

Hey guys and gals. Just started trying some new project in steel (not soft practice plates) how often should I expect to have to resharpen my graver after chips and such. It seems it is seems like I'm resharpening ALOT almost so much that it is really slowing my work down.

I'm resharpening because of a chip or dull graver every minute or two.

I'm using CMAX gravers with a GRS hand-piece. I'm also using 120 and 105 degree gravers.

I feel like I may be doing something wrong, or is resharpening ALL the time just the plight of an engraver? :beatup:

 

[monk]

geometry (total configuration) plays a very important role here. also a key is how you apply the graver to the metal. you mention the gravers. what about the other needed requirements ? the vise must be such that smooth rotation is there. the vise must also be heavy enough to absorb vibration.
it seems as tho you are resharpening far too much. but not knowing what all you're using, as well as how it's being used-- not sure i would comment beyond what i've already said. i will say there's so much info available on sharpening it's your job to go after that info and practice.
attempting to succeed is difficult enough. not knowing the needed info will surely lead to disappointment.

 

[jacksonrobinson]

@monk apologies, but me asking the question was me "going after the info"

I have GRS low profile vise.

I am comfortable with sharpening aspect, it seems I'm missing something else.


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[Riflesmith]

This is just my opinion, C-Max gravers require a little "finesse" and have a learning curve all their own. A couple of things that might help you without knowing which hand piece you have; the 901 hand piece really hits the graver hard and sometimes ends up shattering the graver in harder steels, turn your bpm up to 3300 or more and keep the graver tight in the cut so it doesn't "rebound" and shatter the point. Tight curves can also be a problem area for the C-Max as they are hard and brittle and the twisting action in tight curves, if you don't take it slowly, will break off the heel. Just a few of my own lessons learned.

 

[dlilazteca]

There are several factors the will break your tip, one is that that particular graver is bad, meaning there are just tines I cut a piece of because for some reason it just breaks after I cut it off at times just works better, another is vibration on your holding setup must be vibration free even your table not just your vise, another is the way your holding/guiding your hand piece don't give it the grip of death by don't be afraid to hold her, another is graver geometry increase your face angle, dub your point, increase graver geometry. I hope this helps if you want to know how to do any of the the following, search it up, been covered plenty of times.

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[diandwill]

Try some Glensteel and see if the problem persists. It may be the C Max, it may be vibration, it may be that your hand moves and, instead of the tool being stationary and the work turning into it, you cheat and try to finish with your wrist. It may be that you are holding your tongue wrong.

Keep trying, correct the problems you can, but keep cutting. At least the HS steel is cheaper.

 

[TallGary]

@monk apologies, but me asking the question was me "going after the info"

I have GRS low profile vise.

I am comfortable with sharpening aspect, it seems I'm missing something else.

I think what Monk was suggesting, and what I strongly suggest, is that you may want to use the search feature to help yourself before asking a question. Typing in "sharpening" or "Cmax" and clicking on the magnifying glass brings up an incredible number of posts on the topics you are inquiring about. You are not the first nor will you be the last person to need help on a subject -- well, I suppose you could be the first on a topic, but in this case, sharpening, carbide gravers, etc. have been hot topics for a loooong time.

All that being said, my experience with Cmax was considerably improved when I began polishing the face and heel facets of the Cmax graver and putting a "micro" radius on the bottom of the tip. I rarely break a tip unless I am cutting something very hard -- 304 stainless comes to mind.

Good Luck!

 

[Andrew Biggs]

There are two things that will determine how often you sharpen..............The type of metal you are cutting and your technique.

Some metals are hard and gummy that almost trap your graver tip. You can strengthen the tip a bit by dubbing the point and making the face a steeper angle. E.g. 55 degrees and even 60 degrees in some cases. That's the scientific part

The technique part is something that you must be very careful to observe. As a newbie breaking tips of the graver is normal..........as you become more experienced you will break them less but still have to sharpen often.

When you cut, keep your hand wrist rigid. A common mistake is for newbies to try and follow the line with their wrist........don't!!! Turn the vise into the cut and lock your wrist. Don't move it from side to side as this will snap the tip pf the graver off in the cut. They are not designed for sideways pressure.

Even when you flare the cut you are only rolling the graver, not moving it sideways.

Carbides are unforgiving when it comes to technique. They are brittle and break easily if not used properly. It's a good idea to have a couple of Glensteel gravers on hand as they can be more forgiving as far as technique is concerned.

So next time you cut, really think about what you are doing and concentrate on your technique and see if there is any improvement. You could also try a little bit of lube as it does make a difference on some metals.

Having said all that, breaking the tip and sharpening is all part of the deal. Don't worry, we have all been through it

Cheers
Andrew

 

[monk]

@monk apologies, but me asking the question was me "going after the info"

I have GRS low profile vise.

I am comfortable with sharpening aspect, it seems I'm missing something else.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ok-- the vise is not a problem. i think you may have moved ahead of yourself. learning this work, even if you take a class, is not always a cake walk. the class will shorten the learning curve. it takes much practice to achieve good results. what specifically is it that you are cutting. i know you said steel. what form is it in ? thick, thin, single curve, compound curve--what ? if you could send a foto or 2 of what you're working on, maybe the members could narrow down your problem. even better, a foto of your work station. could this problem arise from such a thing as a work table ? it could. so many variables come to that tiny graver point. not always easy to find the guilty one. what sharpening system or method are you using ? being comfortable with sharpening offers no guarantee that you're doing it correctly. it may seem like i'm hounding you, but not so. the more known about what & how you work may lead to a simple solution to your problem.