New to jewelry engraving; Bought Sam's video and have a question.

[goldslinger]

Hello,

I am Gary Gipson; owner of Gipson Diamond Jewelers in Garden City, KS.

We do ALOT of Custom Jewelry work, but want to expand Our horizons with the Graving system and microscope set up.

We just tooled up with all the GRS goodies ( Graversmiths with 901, electric sharpener and holder, etc.) and bought Sam's video. (actually 2 of them). We are brand new to engraving Sam's video (Successful Jewelry Engraving) is Great, and I've watched it 5 times now between practicing, but I have an ignorant question.
I noticed in the 'running leaf' chapter, I think other than running the border, He is using the 120 graver for everything else; including the shading. When I try to round the leaves and scallop, it widens the border previously cut by the square graver, which is much narrower. Do I need to just keep the 120 leaned inwards towards the leaf at all times and lean it more to scallop the leaves? Is that the trick?

Until I can get up to Emporia Kansas, I'm trying not to develop bad habits in the meanwhile. Alot to learn (sharpening, etc.)


Thanks in advance!

Gary Gipson

 

[GTJC460]

Try cutting the border line deeper and wider. If you are working on a ring or other rounded surface, just cut everything with the same graver. The square forces you to really lean it way over to get that nice bright tapered scallop.

As a side note, I personally engrave this border and almost everything else with a 110' graver. I find the 120' to be really easy to get too wide or deep really fast. Try making up a 110' graver and give it a try.

 

[monk]

something else to be aware of-- for doing tight curves, the graver heel should be very short. not much wider than a human hair. try to get them to meet at the same point on the graver bottom.

 

[Sam]

Hi Gary. Welcome to the Cafe. If the 120 is causing you to clip the outside edge of the border, then you can use a narrower graver to cut the scallops. You will have to lean it a bit more, but you can certainly get a similar result with it. I also use a flat graver for this. As it is now the 120 is a bit wider than you're able to control it in this situation, so a narrower graver should work better for you. And as monk suggested, be sure you have a short heel of about 1/4mm or so, and as Bert says, be sure the border is cut sufficiently deep or this becomes very problematic.

 

[goldslinger]

Thanks for the replies, Everyone!

Great tips!

Sam; I just bought 2 more of Your vids (sharpening, and monograming) via GRS. My Son and I took the last 2 seats to 'Stone Setting' in Emporia in July; looking forward to that. It is not Your class, unfortunately, but I'm sure We are in good hands, nonetheless.

Thanks again Guys, I think I will try everything with a 110, and I will keep the radiused, polished 15 degree heel very small for cornering.

Having alot of fun learning.

Gary

 

[Sam]

Thanks, Gary You'll enjoy the stonesetting class for sure!

 

[GTJC460]

I think you are going to like the 110'. I pretty much use it for everything.

As a side note when you make your heel, the ceramic lap with a little diamond spray is all you need. With HSS gravers your lap doesn't need much spray on it. In fact charge it once, and you are set for a long time. If you are working with carbide you need to charge it more frequently.

If you are getting the kind of polish you want, don't be afraid to clean your lap and recharge with the diamond spray. I usually clean my ceramic lap about every other month. I just use soap, water and a hand scrub brush.

 

[James Roettger]

For bright cut jewelry work I use either a 90 square or a flat graver. The 90 degree square works on almost everything from hair lines to basic leaves and scrolls. The 90 is much deeper than a 120 which is important for wear and final polishing. The flat I use for everything that can't be done well with the 90 like the notches along borders or some of the broader cuts that can't be done with the 90. I keep the 90 chucked up in my pneumatic tool and the flat I use hand powered which leaves a smoother brighter cut than pneumatic because of the force used adds a nice burnish to the surface. I do a ton of bright cut work often copying patterns from famous makers and notice the the two tips I use seem to best match industry practices. To minimize heel drag on the steep 90 I use Lindsay parallel heal geometry and on the flat graver I use a 15 degree radiused heel.

 

[goldslinger]

I think you are going to like the 110'. I pretty much use it for everything.

As a side note when you make your heel, the ceramic lap with a little diamond spray is all you need. With HSS gravers your lap doesn't need much spray on it. In fact charge it once, and you are set for a long time. If you are working with carbide you need to charge it more frequently.

If you are getting the kind of polish you want, don't be afraid to clean your lap and recharge with the diamond spray. I usually clean my ceramic lap about every other month. I just use soap, water and a hand scrub brush.

Thanks for that. I do use carbide since We primarily work with the 'stickier' metals.

James Roettger


For bright cut jewelry work I use either a 90 square or a flat graver. The 90 degree square works on almost everything from hair lines to basic leaves and scrolls. The 90 is much deeper than a 120 which is important for wear and final polishing.

That is a very good point!

To minimize heel drag on the steep 90 I use Lindsay parallel heal geometry

I will have to look up the 'Lindsay parallel heal' to see how to do that. (or log it and ask in the classroom). Thanks!

Sam,

I think I will have fun, too; especially alongside My Son.

Gary