Critique Request My latest work

glstrcowboy

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Here is my most recent practice. I think it's the best I've done, although that is admittedly a low bar! Problems I can identify are:

1. Imperfect backbones
2. Shading lines that are not smooth arcs /do not neatly converge at the origin
3. Shading on the ball ends needs a lot of help. That part just isn't clicking.
4. The tip of the center leaf between the scrolls needs something, but I'm at a loss.

Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Mr. Biggs- On my last post you asked "Where is the shading?" Hope I'm making progress. Please don't suggest macrame!


10-4.JPG 10-4-13.JPG
 

Ed Westerly

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You have critiqued your work pretty well on your own. I would add that your shading starts too deep and thick and should extend further from the backbone, into the center of the leaf. Some crosscuts near the base of the shade lines would also help. I would advise you not to cut "through the blue", as you have done here for two reasons. First, you can see the result of your shade lines better when the whole piece is silver, and second the final effect is not as pleasing to the eye as a gun that is blued after cutting.(it looks like what it is, a way to do engraving on the cheap.) Hope this helps. I don't know how long you have been engraving, but you have made progress from pure beginner, as your lines show good depth control, and your backbones are pretty good.
 

Andrew Biggs

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Hi Mike

Yep........macrame :)

Actually, it's not too bad. What's more cutting on curves can be tricky if you are not used to it.Also your layout/design is looking good. As Bruce has said, you have identified the areas that need improving etc etc. To add to Bruce's comments I would also try flaring the cuts slightly. But again, all that just comes with practice. Don't worry, we've all been there, done that. One day it will just click into place if you keep at it.

So really it's just a matter of observation, time and practice. I would suggest that if you want to practice shading cuts then do it on a flat surface . It will be a lot easier.
 

glstrcowboy

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Mr. Gleason, Mr. Biggs, thank you for taking the time to respond.

Mr Gleason, I knew that the bluing would not match well (at all), but it's for practice. I didn't think about the contrast bit, I'll remember that. The progress I've been able to make on backbones comes from the ScrollMaster template set and a lot of practice plates. The depth control has benefitted greatly from the sample tool Mr. Alfano sent me. That sold me on what the right tool can do. His video also showed me how to taper the shading lines, I'm just having trouble doing it on a cylinder.

Mr Biggs, that will be an emphatic no to macrame! I'm sure it's a wonderful hobby, but I'm fresh out of room in my tool box. I'm working up to flaring. I can do it (sort of) with a 90 deg tool on a flat surface, but the 120 deg is still a little problematic for me. It seems as though it is either cutting normally or skipping out. It definitely a tool that requires a fine touch. I am glad you marginally approve the pattern. I was concerned that there was too much empty background and that the start of the scroll and outside leaf elements are a little large.
 

Andrew Biggs

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I actually tried my hand at macrame back in the day ........trouble was it tied me all up in knots so i stopped doing it :)

Mr. Biggs!!! The only time I ever got called that was when I was in trouble with the Beak. I have fond memories of sitting outside the headmasters office awaiting his displeasure. :) So please, call me Andrew.

Cheers
Andrew
 

Marrinan

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Mike, Nice try. I might suggest that you scribe a series of arches on a practice plate say radii of 1/4 through 1 inch make half to the right and half to the left. leave about the distance the arch is long between them. Now the shading practice-cut your first line just to the side of the scribe line. Next, allowing your graver to barely mark the metal 1/64 to the side of your cut line and ever so slightly raise your wrist while gradually increasing your power follow the cut line gradually aiming for its other end. Do it again, and again and again, very your starting point a little so you don't have a line of starting points. repeat until you want to come find me and strangle me. Fred
 

glstrcowboy

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Fred, thank you for the advise. I'll do that, and will post a pic or two on Monday to make sure I understand what you mean. No guarantees on the quality, but we'll see if I have the right idea. Sixteen thousandths is pretty close with only an optivisor...
 

Dave London

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get a bottle of the Works toilet bowl cleaner, Home Depot has it. clean the piece with solvent (alcohol ) then apply the Works. Blue instantly gone MTC YMMV Keep cutting
 

glstrcowboy

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Thank you. Instantly sounds a lot better than 600 grit sand paper, I will pick some up. Home Depot happens to be on the list of stops for this afternoon.
 

glstrcowboy

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Well, I think I followed the directions, but I have a long way to go before I'd consider it done. Left or right didn't matter too much, but there's a big difference between increasing and decreasing the radius. This is going to take some practice. You are safe from strangulation for a while. PA070251.JPG PA070250.JPG
 

Ed Westerly

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Looks like you are getting some good tutoring here, so i won't add to the workload. Just wanted to say that my dad is Mr. Gleason. I'm just Bruce! Don't get all formal on me, or I'll think I am somebody!
 

glstrcowboy

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Yes sir. First names seem to be customary here, but it seems presumptuous to assume.

I am not opposed to more homework; some variety never hurts! In addition to my Shading Lines 101 I am still cutting a couple scrolls in every session, lest I lose what little muscle memory I have gained.
 

dlilazteca

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Yes the works, works (huh?) Buy two one is not enough and don't forget to buy a cheap portable plastic container with a lid, so you can submerge your items, also when it's time to pour back in, pour it into an old milk jug (gallon size, clear would be better), last but not least don't forget a a funnel.

Carlos De La O III
 

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