Making a hammer and chisel kit

[Red Green]

Hello,

I’ve been following the thread by mtgraver and I am left with a few questions. I’m putting together a H/C kit at the moment and have made two hammer heads 139 and 148 gram. I’ve only made one handle the other I intend to make today. After reading the thread I’m questioning my actions, I was under the impression that the weight of the head need to be within a ‘range’ but the speed and power of the hammer was dependent on the action of the fingers and heel of the hand using the bulb of the handle while the thumb forefinger maintain a fulcrum point at the neck. This seems to work as described in my hand but I have not put it to practice as my kit is unfinished. Is the weight of the hammer dependent upon the individual using the hammer? Also, does the weight and material of the graver holder come into play when considering the proper mass for a head? The graver holder I’m working on at the moment is basically a 6 ½ inch 3/8 rod down the center of an oak shaft, I’m not sure what the finish weight will be but it will have near the mass as the hammer I believe. Have I made a basic beginners error? Or should I continue and see how it works out?

Thanks,

Bob

 

[Sam]

This is an interesting subject with no definitive answers. I learned with an off-the-shelf chasing hammer from...I don't remember who I got it from, but it's quite a common one. It has a swell in the handle which is pretty typical. Later I made a nicer looking one slightly lighter in weight and used it for many years, and the ones GRS sells are patterned after my hammer. Lynton McKenzie made his with a nearly straight handle which is on the short side compared to others you see. Some folks like 'em long and thin with a 'whip' to the action, being flexible and responsive. Others prefer offset handles that fit the hand and some have guide pins in the handle to keep the head oriented in the right direction by keeping the handle from rotating in the palm. Some work with their thumbs on the outside of the handle as opposed to a normal grip, and some work with their chisel elbow in the air which puts their forearm parallel to the floor. There are many, many configurations of hammers and handles and ways of holding them. I did nearly all of my work with one hammer and used a slightly heavier one for hammering-in gold. Mine is nothing special and I don't claim it to be better, but it works beautifully

 

[Red Green]

Thanks for the fast response Sam,

I could not ask for a more positive answer. It seems that most of the experienced and successful engravers have the attitude that ‘if it works for you it’s the right way’. In the end it’s the beauty and quality of the work that really counts so that attitude may be conducive to success. I was concerned that I may have run into one of those rules that cause unquestionable failure, lacking knowledge I was fearful I had made a gross error in proportioning the masses to work, your answer relieved my anxiety considerably, thank you.

Bob

 

[mtgraver]

Well said Sam,
I wouldn't worry to much about any of it at this point. Find a hammer that feels good, I would lean toward a lighter weight. The face size is what I was told when I started that needed some consideration. The thought being a bigger area of head to hit the chisel without having to look at the hammer head. The hammer I use all the time is an old hammer that someone had brazed a crack in the eye of the head. When I picked it up it spoke, it felt that the person who had used it an awful lot had the same pattern of use as I, evidenced by the wear on the face of the head and the feel of the handle in my hand. The handle is very springy which I prefer and is ovate in cross section and a little shy of the standard store bought hammers. I like the feel and finesse I get with a springy handle where as my bench hammer is a straight and more rigid for peening and the like. Bottom line is you'll probably change things as you get used to using them and best thing is to just start cutting metal with a hammer and a chisel the rest will fall into place as time moves forward. Enjoy
Mark

 

[Donny]

I started on H/C with Bryan Bridges. He made me a chisel on my first day and then he told me to find the lightest chasing hammer at a local jewlery supply shop. BUT when I was at my lessons I ALWAYS picked up his hammer for my scroll work...All of his handles were Applewood. Very springy but stiff enough to get the job done. The best feature was the handle fit my hand like a glove! I use power assisted equipment now but I would love to have his hammer and chisels....


Donny

 

[Red Green]

Hey mtgraver,

I read somewhere that a large faced hammer was best for use with engraving and I like the look of large faced hammers. The 5 oz. hammer is a ball peen it has a 1 5/8â€￾ round face and is 3 ¼â€￾ long. I’ve made a magnolia handle for it, I’ve never worked with magnolia before, it may be a little too light and stiff but it is plenty strong and looks good with a simple burnishing. The 5 1/3 oz. is a double faced hammer with a 1 ¼â€￾ round face and a 1â€￾ square face on the other I ground penny sized bosses into both sides of the eye thinking that they would make a nice to engrave when I get good enough. I’m finishing up the handle tonight it’s made of oak nice and springy, but I may have made it too long. Well, thanks for your reply, I should get back to work, or is that back to fun?

Bob

 

[unclejim1955]

Hammers are like Bourbon. The best one in the world is the one you like the best. It's different for everyone.

 

[Red Green]

Donny,

There are so many talented and intelligent people involved in engraving I would like to meet and Mr. Bridges is indeed on that list. Perhaps you should get some apple wood and carve yourself a replica, some measurements and a little patience making small adjustments while in use may win you a fine prize. What type of chisel does Mr. Bridges use? Do you have any pictures? Can you make them? Power equipment sounds like it would be fun, I’ll have to give it a try one day before I stop moving.

Bob

Thanks for that unclejim,
Now back to some serous drinking.

 

[Neo Dutch]

Basically you're over thinking it. Just make sure your handles have an amount of flex. You want the head of the hammer to remain against the end of the graver during the movement of the graver through the metal. No bouncing.

 

[tundratrekers@mtaonline.n]

Thats the clearest,most concise explanation of why the handle should flex.

Thanks! Neo Dutch! mike

 

[monk]

i challenge anyvody to match the quality of these custom built beauties !

 

[Red Green]

Hey monk,

Those hammers are incredible. But I feel it’s a little unfair of you to post pictures of your post modern neo classical steam punk hammers as a challenge. It is true the classic lines and gentle grace are charming but what about function? I was considering displaying pictures of my efforts but now I feel a little overwhelmed and intimidated. I do thank you though, your challenge has inspired me to rethink my amateurish attempts. Perhaps I can persuade you to show us your design plans and building schedule? I’m sure I’m not the only one here who wonders just what the thinking process was behind such a venture.

Bob

 

[Joe Jacob]

New hammer

With all the talk of custom made hammers, both steam-punk and classical I thought that I would make my own. The head was inspired by those in the John Rohner collection. It's made from 1" diameter 303 stainless steel bar stock and weights 65.6 gm. The handle is oak, 1" diameter, with the neck down 3/8" diameter and weighs 24.8 gm. So the total is 90.4 gm.

 

[Red Green]

Hey Neo,

You’re correct, I inevitably over think my every endeavor. I’ll keep your flexing advice in mind as I develop, remake and refine the handles. Thank you.

Nice hammer Joe,

I admire your courage, monk’s challenge is formidable to those of us with less fortitude. Undoubtedly you have a found an area in monks style that he ignored. While I find your hammer quite attractive you must admit it lacks the uncomplicated elegant tool shed charm of his contrivance. I hope others will see your attempt and find the aspiration to take his challenge also.

Bob