John B french gray method.. I found it!!!!!!

[Ray Cover]

John,

I found the instructions for your French Grey method. Here is a link to where you posted them a long time ago on the Knifenetwork forum.

Rather than hijack Weldon's thread I thought I would post it in a new one.

http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32157&highlight=coin+finish

I also seem to remember you posting something somewhere about some other type of finish you were calling a coin finish. If I can hunt that one down I will get a link for it too.

Sam probably ought to post these instructions in the tips and tricks section. Hint hint.

Ray

 

[Sam]

Yes, I'd definitely like to add that to the Tips Archive. That's valuable info for sure. I'd rather not copy something from another forum without permission. Any idea who I should ask? I don't know the admin there.

Hurray for John B! That man should write an engraving book.

 

[Ray Cover]

Favorite finish thread give us your instructions

I had an idea while reading through John's French Grey instructions again.

Here is what I propose. Everyone willing can post detailed instructions on laying down (or even protecting) various finishes on engraved objects. It does not have to be limited to guns. Lets keep it open to any engraved object and any finishing technique. I have Church obligations this morning but this afternoon I will try and put up a couple I use often on pens and knives. If I can get John's OK I will put his French Grey instructions here as well.

I think such a thread would be a great resource for all of us. We all have to deal with finishes in one way or another. For some it may be protecting an existing finish for others it may be how to lay down or match a finish after flushing an extensive gold inlay.

I will start a new thread and call it a finish thread and anyone interested put your finish techniques up there.

Ray

 

[Ray Cover]

Sam,

Tim Adlam is the moderator over there. I'm sure he could get you to the right person.

 

[dclevinger]

Great idea Ray. I wish I had something really good to contribute.
I've used John's French Gray method and it works very well and is quite easy to do.
David

 

[quickcut07]

Ray I'm doing some work in mild steel. Much of it has been finished to a wet sanded bright finish. Other pieces after cleaning it up , they were taken and glass bead blasted for a more frosted look. They all are mainly done just to try different cuts and practice before replicating them on the finished product. Now that I have a few done I started looking for a way to preserve them. The question being will this treatment do that or is there other simple methods to such an end.
Your idea to import different processes into one library is an excellent idea. I can see it will be used for more than just engraving, as well as answering many questions we that work with a steel canvas have.

 

[JJ Roberts]

Ray..I havn't tried John's formula for French Gray, but have used Marty Rabino's formula which consists of
Lysol Toliet Bowl Cleaner neutralized the area with baking soda and water. I found good results, and the customer was happy. Keep up the good work.

Yours truly,
JJ Roberts
Manassas, VA
School of Artistic Engraving

 

[Ray Cover]

JJ, DO you mind if I copy and past this into the finishes thread?

 

[John B.]

Thanks Sam and Ray for finding some of this information and also your kind words.
I am on the road to Kansas at the moment but when I get home in a couple of weeks any of this material will be available directly to you for posting Sam, if that's your wish.
As far as I'm concerned you are free to post it right now.
It's out and about not only on the forums.
I gave it to all the engraving students too.
Maybe I kinda hijacked Weldons wonderful Colt post because I put some more about French Gray there.
Sorry about that Weldon, thoughtless of me.
Best to all, John B.

 

[Ken Hurst]

Ray, I would like to second JJ's mentioning of Marty's Lysol approach. I have used this same method for years. After a piece is color cased, I cover it with Lysol, allow piece to sit for about 1/2 hour and scrub same piece with 0000 steel wool to remove color. After enough color is removed to satisfy client, I place pieces in bucket which contains really filthy diesel crank case oil & allow to set for a day or so. Usually the finish will come out a nice soft french grey. The level of grey depends on how longpiece sit in oil & just how dirty the oil was. I have found that the longer the oil was used, the more sulferic acid is present. This process won't etch the surface if piece has a nice sheen on it. FWIW, Ken

 

[Ken Hurst]

JOHN B. ---- Mr. John, you could never be accused of being thoughtless !! Ken

 

[Sam]

Reprinted from KnifeNetwork.com engraving forum and added to our Tips Archive.
Thank you Tim Adlam for permission.
------------------

"FRENCH GRAY METHOD" BY JOHN K. BARRACLOUGH.

THE BASIC PRODUCT THAT I USE IS REFERED TO IN THE AUTOMOBILE
REFINISHING TRADE AS "BODY PREP" OR "STEEL PREP". THE SPECIFIC
PRODUCT THAT I PURCHASE IS MADE BY DU PONT COMPANY AND IS LABELED
"STEEL REFINISHING SYSTEM", "STEP B"*5718-S “CONVERSION COATING" +
THERE ARE OTHER BRANDS BUT I KNOW THAT THIS. ONE DOES THE JOB FOR ME.
THE PRODUCT IS OBTAINED FROM AN AUTOMOTIVE PAINT SUPPLY STORE IN A
PLASTIC BOTTLE, .946 LITER SIZE FOR ABOUT $20.00-$25.00.
NORMAL CARE SHOULD BE EXERSIZED IN THE USE OF THIS PRODUCT. READ
THE LABEL. FOR OUR PURPOSE THE PRODUCT CAN BE REUSED MANY TIMES
SO POUR IT BACK INTO THE ORIGINAL CONTAINER CAREFULLY AFTER USE.
POUR ENOUGH MATERIAL TO COVER THE PARTS TO BE GRAYED INTO A NON-
METALLIC CONTAINER, I USE A LARGE PYREX MEASURING CUP WITH A
POURING LIP AS IT IS EASY TO REPOUR THE PRODUCT INTO THE BOTTLE.
FIX A STEEL WIRE TO EACH PART SO THAT IT DOES NOT HAVE TO BE
HANDLED DIRECTLY. CLEAN EACH PART BY DIPPING IT INTO LACQUER THINNER AND ALLOW
IT TO AIR DRY.
NEXT, DIP EACH PART INTO THE BODY PREP AND LET IT SIT UNDER THE
SURFACE OF THE FLUID FOR ABOUT ONE OR TWO MINUTES.
RAISE PART BY THE WIRE AND CHECK IT’S COLOR. CHECK IT AGAINST A
PIECE OF UNTREATED METAL
WHEN IT TURNS A NICE LIGHT GRAY, STOP THE ACTION BY IMMERSING
IT IN CLEAN COOL WATER
TAKE THE PART OUT OF THE WATER BATH, HOLDING IT BY THE ATTACHED WIRE.
DRY IT WITH A WARM AIR HAIR DRYER. MAKE SURE YOUR PART
IS GRAY ALL OVER AND AS DARK AS YOU WANT IT. DO NOT BE CON-
CEREND ABOUT A SLIGHTY CLOUDY FINISH, IT WILL CLEAR UP WITH
THE FOLLOWING STEPS.
AT THIS STAGE, WHILE THE PART IS STILL WARM, IT SHOULD BE
DIPPED INTO A SEALANT TO PROTECT THE FINISH.
THE SEALANT SHOULD BE MIXED, TESTED AND CONTAINED IN AIR TIGHT JAR,
AND BE ON HAND EEFORE STARTING THE FINISHING PROCESS.
MIX THIS IN A SCREW TOP JAR, SHAKE AND TEST BEFORE EACH
USE, KEEP IT THINNED DOWN AS NEEDED.
TO MAKE THE SEALANT SOLUTION, HALF FILL THE JAR WITH CLEAN
ACETONE AND ADD ABOUT A TABLESPOON OF SPAR VARNISH.
DO NOT USE PLASTIC VARNISH; USE THE OLD FASHONED ROSEN TYPE.
SHAKE TO MIX, TEST AS FOLLOWS.
TO TEST THE SEALANT MIX.
HOLD THE BACK OF YOUR HAND OUT IN GOOD LIGHT AND NOTICE THE TEXTURE AND LIGHT THAT
REFLECTS FROM IT. DIP A FINGER INTO THE MIX AND MAKE A QUICK
SWIPE ON THE BACK OF THE OUTSTRECHED HAND. THE WARMTH OF YOUR
HAND WILL IMMEDIATLY FLASH OFF THE ACETONE AND LEAVE A VERY
LIGHT DEPOSIT OF VARNISH WHICH YOU WILL SEE AS A SLIGHT SHINY
STRIPE ON THE BACK OF YOUR HAND. IF YOU DONT HAVE A STRIPE MIX A
LITTLE MORE VARNISH IN AND TEST ON A DIFFERENT PART OF YOUR SKIN.

AFTER GRAYING AND WITH THE PART STILL WARM FROM THE DRYER AND BEING HANDLED ONLY
BY THE WIRE, DIP IT INTO THE SEALANT MIX. REMOVE AND REDRY THE PART IN THE AIR.
HANG BY THE WIRE UNTIL FULLY DRY, 24 HOURS IF TIME PERMITS.
APPLY INK TO THE ENGRAVING TO BRING OUT THE DETAIL. REMOVE
THE EXCESS INK FROM THE FLAT AREAS WITH CLOTH DAMPENED WITH ALCOHOL.
AVOID FLOODING THE SURFACE, WIPE SEVERAL TIME WITH A JUST DAMP CLOTH.
LIGHTLY POLISH ANY DIMENSIONAL GOLD OR SILVER INLAYS WITH A SOFT ERASER,
STAY STRICTLY ON THE INLAY.
SIT BACK AND ENJOY YOUR HANDWORK.

Wow! I think cut and paste worked. Hope this helps some. It is revised from it's earlier version that was messed up by a word recognition program on my scanner. Those folks that I emailed it to earlier may want to print out this version.
Best wishes to all, John Barraclough.

 

[smays]

another suggestion if its not too much to ask... for those of us who havent seen enough of the finishes to know the differences...pictures would be nice. A before and after would be spectacular. I realize you guys dont use these finishes everyday... so when available would be nice.

thanks
shawn

 

[smays]

just read the other post.... please excuse me for not reading all the threads before making request!!!

thanks anyway!

 

[jlseymour]

Thanks John B.
Thanks, Sam
Thanks, Ray

Great Information for the notebook...
I'll print it and file it...
Need it again, I got it.
Thanks Ray for all your help in class and what contribute you give to us and all the forums...
Seeya Soon,
Jerry

 

[JJ Roberts]

Ray...Fine with me if you use it. I share a lot of information with my fellow engravers, and gunsmiths, and happy to do so...when you teach someone you learn it that much better yourself.

Yours truly,
JJ Roberts
School of Artistic Engraving
Manassas, VA

 

[John B.]

Hi Sam and all other reader/members.
Another product I have found to do a great job, and it's easier to find and cheaper than the Auto Prep.
This is mostly for the dip method but it also works for selective Gray if used with care.
That is a product sold at Lowe's as a ceramic tile cleaner, in the tile supply section.
I am not at home right now and can't put my hand on the bottle to give you the correct name and product number.
If you need this I will post it when I return.
In the mean time look for the product that contains phosphoric acid, it'll work.
Marty's system of tidy Bowl also works really well.
Any of them should be flushed with clear water to stop the action, if you'll pardon the expression.
Best, John B.

 

[dlilazteca]

Bringing this back.. love the search button:thumbup:

Carlos De La O III

 

[Sam]

Carlos: As you're discovering, there's a wealth of info at our fingertips here in the cafe

 

[dlilazteca]

Bringing this back.. love the search button:thumbup:

Carlos De La O III

Sam, you're absolutely right.

Here comes my question how would the spar varnish affect the gun slide when it gets into the nooks and crevices?

Carlos De La O III