Question: Hogging graver blanks

[scott99]

Hi, I have a GRS power hone with all the laps,but even with the 180 "Gator" it takes forever to blank out the basic shape (tapers) on a new graver small enough to be of use.

So if you don't mind I would sure like to know how the "Pros" get it done. I can't imagine someone spending their day grinding out flats to reduce face size.:thinking:

I see the stuff that mounts on a drill press but also see a possible problem with heat. I make tiny carving tools all the time but heat treat them after shaping. I would like to avoid that with graver blanks. Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

scott99

 

[James Roettger]

I use a water cooled grinder wheel to remove "hog down" material from the top of the graver shank. This upper surface doesn't need to look good, just be good. I then cut in all my critical cutting angles with the GRS dual angle fixture. I use the Lindsay geometry with the relieving angles so I do have quite a bit of grinding to do to make my gravers. Once the gravers are prepped maintenance is pretty easy.

 

[tim halloran]

Scott99: I use the .071 Thousandths diameter C-Max gravers from GRS. They hog down really fast because they are already pretty small. I use the Easy Graver sharpening fixtures in 105 and 120 degree. I also have a 100 grit diamond wheel i got from GRS. It's up to you how much time you want to spend sharpening. I engrave daily and the less time i spend sharpening the more time i can spend engraving. The old saying is "time is money", And some times you need to spend a little money to make a little money!

 

[Willem Parel]

I use the Lindsay templates and I have just grind a graver from blank to cutting shape within 5 minutes or less.
I have the Tom White power hone on full speed and quench the graver after every stroke I make and grind the basic shape.
After that I make some strokes on the 2000 grit bench stone for fine tuning.
When needed brightcut I polish on another hone on a ceramic lap.
But since I was cutting stainless there was no polishing needed so it took less time.

 

[silverchip]

Even if you use the drill press set up and take your time so they don't get so hot ,It's still faster than with the powerhone, the only thing faster is a diamond wheel and water. MY$0.02!!!

 

[Mike Frakes]

I am not trying to sell anything, but the power hone from Tom White will speed the process up quite a lot.

Mike

 

[Marrinan]

I use my bench grinder or my belt grinder. Hold bare handed-gets to warm dip in the cooling cup. Usually hog down a batch at a time. bare handed you will learn when it is to hot. Remember the tip is smaller, heats faster. usually about as much time in water as on wheel. Tried the wet paper towel method but felt like I could not see as well. Fred

 

[scott99]

Thanks

Thank you all very much,all the above will pay the bill over here. I really like the range of comments. It looks like I was sort of on the right track, hold them by hand so you are aware of the heat and then grind away. :biggrin:

This is where I was heading but wanted to check with the people who really know before I went the wrong way. :bow:


Again I have been treated so well with my question, you people are a GOLDMINE! Better than that, a HELPFUL GOLDMINE! :bow:

Thanks again
scott99: tiphat:

 

[Southern Custom]

I use a diamond wheel on a Baldor motor and it cuts fast and cool. Before that , Lindsay's diamond plate on a drill press worked well.
Layne

 

[scott99]

Thanks for the information,any chance on a pic of your setup?

scott99

 

[GTJC460]

I bought a 100 grit lap from this guy on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12108491687...l?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=121084916871&_rdc=1

Makes short work of Glensteel and other HSS gravers. And it's very hard to beat the price! It only took about a week to get it too!

I also have a diamond wheel in my grinder I bought from Lapcraft. I don't use it much as the 100 grit lap I mentioned above does most of what I need.

 

[scott99]

Used all the advice

Hi, thanks for the link on laps.

Well I took all the tips and advice and went downstairs to my machine shop area and pre ground a blank on a 10 inch bench grinder.Went back upstairs to my Power Hone and did a long Grind point in about 1/2 hour start to finish.:banana:

I held with my fingers and kept the water pot close,I probably went slower than others but I quenched after every pass and things went just fine.

Thanks again for all the help, it gave me the confidence that I was not jumping off a cliff.:clapping:

scott99

 

[Southern Custom]

This is a link to the grinder I use. I can get a blank carbide tool ready for final sharpening in under 5 min. Amazing tool if a bit pricy. I'm a bit lucky that I have a shop at Redjacket Firearms and have access to all their tools. If not, I'd seriously consider springing for this one or at least the wheel.
Layne
http://www.baldor.com/products/deta...Buffers&family=Grinders|vw_GrindBuff_Grinders

 

[scott99]

Very nice setup, but a bit out of reach right now, but thanks for the link.

scott99

 

[silverchip]

There is a pic of my set up on my FB page and if you search the archives here I believe I posted it here too.

 

[Terrezar]

I use a hammerdrill, fitted in a homemade set-up, to sharpen. I have found it to be quite a good way to get a good result, as well as a cheap way to do so. If it helps I have already posted a link about how I made it: "http://www.engraverscafe.com/showthread.php?14579-My-homemade-stuff&highlight=homemade+stuff"

 

[scott99]

Thanks for the links and setup views.

scott99

 

[zzcutter]

I just use an electric two wheel grinder with an 80 grit wheel I got from harbor freight. I dip the blank in water and go right to grinder for one quick pass then back in water and do this till I get the taper I want, gets done in no time. Then I clean up on 250 grit diamond wheel. No special jigs needed for the taper down of the point. Then sharpen on power hone 600 grit and ready to go.

Simple process don't make things harder then they are and Good luck.

 

[monk]

taking a half hour to do this--uggh ! harbor freight has some nifty blades for cutting & shapinc ceramic tile. not expensive. i recently affixed one to a wood faceplate for my delta lathe. cool setup- as this lathe has continuously variable speed--0 to 4k rpm. to avoid rust problems on the ways, i use common mineral oil. i also use this oil on my power hone. the blade i use is about 4" in dia. has a generous amount of diamond on it.